legacycentral bbs

'90 Legacy 4WD wagon. I bought the car w/136k and now has 139K. The 2 issues below haven't gotten any worse or better. I did do a complete flush of the tranny @ about 137K - no difference.

Issue #1: When the car sits overnight or all day it does not move for 5 seconds or so after moving to D. It has always eventually works and w/in 30 seconds it works fine. If I shut the car off, go shopping for subie parts, and come back out it works great. There are no issues in normal driving - either in town or on the highway @ 75 - it shifts correctly. Fluid level is full.

I found this online (http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks. ... gacy-2.htm): Automatic transmission: If the transmission is slow to engage after being parked, the torque converter is draining down and a new cooler line with a check valve must be installed. (1990-91)

I've called 2 Subaru shops and they've never heard of this issue and the parts department can't find the 'cooler line w/a check valve' in their parts books.

Issue #2: When the car is warm or cold, and accelerating moderately a 'whirring' noice comes from the front. It occurs in all gears (or seems to) and occurs @ 2500-3000 RPM. It doesn't do it when the go pedal is floored or when lightly accelerating. I thought maybe it was a heat shield rattle, but ruled that out. The sound doesn't cause any problems w/accelerating - performance isn't affected.

If you have any ideas feel free to enlighten me. I'm currently shopping for a 4EAT to have handy.

The first issue is correct, and it is due to a check valve not holding fluid in the torque converter. From memory, the check valve isn't in the cooler line, but on an external line. I'd recommend calling a good transmission shop.

Where are you located?

Second issue.....not sure...

Whining may be from a wheel bearing.

Legacy777 wrote:The first issue is correct, and it is due to a check valve not holding fluid in the torque converter. From memory, the check valve isn't in the cooler line, but on an external line. I'd recommend calling a good transmission shop.

Where are you located?

Second issue.....not sure...

I'm near Spokane, WA....found a local shop specializing in Subes that HAS heard of this, and quoted about $150 to fix the check valve. I'll have them diagnose the noise too.

Thanks

I have similar, if not the same issues. I get a noise that sounds more like pinging as if the air/fuel ratio was off. For me it happens between 2000 and 3000 RPM. Is your CEL on?

Nope - no CELs or any issues. It's not a pinging noise...It sounds more like a turbo (I WISH!) spooling, if anything.

Thanks

P.S. U didn't by chance by that Alpine in the last couple months from a gal in/near Seattle?

My noise isn't pinging; I get pinging on hills when the 4EAT downshifts and pinging is louder than the noise. Mine kind of reminds me of a turbo too, especially when I get above 3500 RPM.

I also have the problem of the D not engaging immediately. I've got a CEL with codes 24, 42, 49, & 51 so my problem might be different from yours. I think my issue is with the park and inhibitor switches.


I actually did buy it from a gal in Seattle. Sounds like you know her.

grippingdrifting wrote:
I actually did buy it from a gal in Seattle. Sounds like you know her.

Hmm, no codes as stated, just the weird noise. Taking it in tomorrow to diagnose. If they say 'torque converter', I'll live w/it 'til it croaks or starts slipping. I feel confident I could drive it to Seattle and back as it's been this way for 2+ months.


No, I don't know her, but i almost bought that car...I'm in Spokane, but couldn't get over there to see it soon enough. It sounded like a good car w/a little 'cachet' as it's an Alpine. I hope it's working out well for you.

I've found that if I move to 1 instead of D, it will engage with no problems. If D doesn't engage right away, I move to 1 and drive it semi-manually. I haven't had any problems moving from 3 to D.

I almost didn't the car either because someone was going to buy it before I could look at it but luckily that person decided they didn't want a wagon. It was definitely worth the $1500 and I've put maybe an extra $500 in to it. I drove it down to Portland and back with no issues. The biggest annoyance is that I have to hold down the gas to start it or else the engine stalls.

ok so im having the same problem as you guys..
but ... i didnt have this problem.. previously.. (before i screwed around) in the idle area..

i was losing getting a surge of power during startup.. that was taken care of with a new pcv valve.. the old one was original and rusted like nobodys business..

the next problem was the idle.. it was.. i guess what we would call normal.. but i had a feeling it was off.. so i got my mechanic to adjust it.. mistake #1.. i think when we adjusted it.. we pushed the air/fuel ratio up as well.. so now i listened to legacy777(josh) and resetted the ecu and closed my idle.. but now.. i have the same problem as you guys...
when i start up.. its sounds fine.. but now.. when i accelerate..
1st gear - fine
2nd gear - fine..
3rd gear.. (well i think it doesnt have enough compression to push it to 3rd gear) and it sticks in 2nd gear.. WHY? someone please help...
4th gear.. - no where to be found since im driving below 100km/h

yea.. so i also get the whirling turbo sound.. and between 1st and 2nd gear.. it looks like it chokes and then engages..(this is after i adjusted and fooled around) before.. it chokes but sends power to the 3rd gear..

so i have 2 options or 3 (if you can help me)

1. take to subaru.. and pay out the wazoo..
2. take to my mechanic and see what he can do..

3.. your suggestion:)

As long as all the sensors are within spec, and working properly, I don't see how your idle problem and transmission not shifting into 3rd are related.

my car chokes when i first start it and put it in R or D, if i give it gas sometimes it dies, but most of the time it idles really rough and starts moving slowly, it clears after about 10 seconds
it also engages hard going to 2nd and goes slow into 3rd, but if im at WOT it shifts fine

im just letting it go for now, im planning on doing the 5MT swap, ive been calling junk yards but so far it seems there are no 5MT Subarus in western kentucky

I had issues with my car sputtering when putting it into drive or reverse right off the bat.

If I let it warm up for a little bit, or didn't touch the gas, I wouldn't get the problem. I never really figured out what the issue was....possibly a TPS sensor.

josh your right it was the TPS SENSOR>.<
nicely done smart guy PROPS!