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Trying to get the driver's side front roll pin out of the donor car. The previous owner attempted to knock it out the wrong way (non-chamfered to chamfered), so it was stuck halfway out. From there, the part sticking out broke off, and I lodged a piece of metal in the other side so hard that it won't come out.

Is the best option at this point just to drill it out?

It's so annoying because that is the last thing to disconnect before we can get the tranny out, and I need to get my car swapped as quickly as possible before the dragon meet.

I've had to drill them before...and it is a total pain, but works well

555BCTurbo wrote:I've had to drill them before...and it is a total pain, but works well

+1

Its an even bigger pain if the car is on jackstands and not on a lift...

Is the tranny an auto or manual? If it's an auto, just give it a good pull and the stub will pull out of the diff. This may also work on a MT but I know it does on an AT.

This way you can get the axle out of the car and work on removing/drilling the pin on a workbench.

To get the stub back into the diff, just get it into position and use a block of wood and a hammer to pound it back in. There is a little clip around the inside end of the stub, you'll figure it out.

Also, the problem is probably not that he slid the pin out the wrong direction, but that the shaft is turned 180* from where it should be, and could only get the pin slide in 1/2 way

It's coming out of a 5MT.

We just ended up disassembling the outer joint (I say disassemble, but it was more like we pulled on it until it came apart) and removing the tranny with the axle still attached.

I would have just cut the inner boot and pulled out the spring clip and disassembled the inner joint. Pulled the tranny and then drilled the roll pin out. Re assemble the axle under the car, and put the trans in that way.

Why were you taking the transmission out? To swap a clutch?

You could have pulled the motor. Some people think it's easier.

I am swapping from a 4EAT to a 5MT. At this point, I'm just waiting for my braided stainless clutch line and my clutch kit.

Ended up drilling it out after disassembling the inner joint. It was flared out right where between the axle and the axle stub meet. Looked like someone attempted to put it in wrong, and flared the hell out of both ends. Don't ask me how, though, since I have no clue.

Personally, I think it's MUCH easier to drop the tranny to change the clutch.

I do too. It depends on who you ask, and what tools you have.

If you are working on jack stands, pulling the engine means you don't have to bench press a transmission... twice. Plus, if you can't get the car that high in the air, it's also a bummer.

I've got way too much shit connected in the engine bay.....I'd much rather drop the tranny.

When you're working in a dirt floored pole barn or a gravel driveway with nothing but ramps or jackstands and a cherry picker, pulling the motor seems far easier.

IMHO of course.

Funny you mention that, though, since I'm doing it in a carport on a gravel driveway.

I still prefer to drop the trans, though. Guess I'm weird that way.......

I would just like to update this.

To avoid that again, I picked up a set of roll pin punches from sears. Now I won't have to use anything and everything as a punch when I need to knock them out again.

Yup.....I picked up a good set from Sears when I was doing my AWD swap.....they're the longer ones, and make things so much easier.

It's easier for me to pull to pull the radiator, Remove 6 bolts + the ones on the downpipe. and move the engine forward to get to the clutch, just need a jack to get to the engine mount nuts. Takes about 30-40 mins depending on motivation and energy levels. I hate having to bench press the transmission.

The punch set I have is just barely long enough to knock the pins out of the axles, sometimes I have to wiggle them the rest of the way out.