legacycentral bbs

Really an annoyance then a issue..
Heres the problem as Josh would know..

My idle has been going bonky for a couple weeks now.. and i have CONCLUDED that the idle is responsible for my transmission shift timing... just cause its smoother when i adjust the idle via the screw on top of the TB.

We sort of fixed this issue/annoyance by repositioning the TPS sensor since I in my infinite control knocked it while TRYING and FAILING to clean the IAC valve knocked it out of the marked position.

The idle goes high when its cold started, around 2k rpm then holds there... it drops when i click it into N or D

When its warm/hot it turns on around 1,5 ish then drops to .5 which i believe is where it should be..

Dont know if this is relevant but i lost power to my passenger side power window actuator.. from my driver side master control.. but regained control when i pressed the passenger side button..


So i am totally out of ideas.. and need help.

My options that i can think of is..

1) going to the local suby dealer and getting nailed for a big bill or to my surprise a small one (VERY unlikely) *im leaning towards this right now..

2) find the answer here and fix the problem

3) wait till my mechanic gets back from holidays let him take a look at it.. but he seems to be set that the TPS sensor was just knocked out of position.. ( i took a look at it today and it look out of position but i dont wanna F- it up again)

4) somebody local could look at it.. in vancouver,bc area

Moved your thread to the appropriate forum.

Explain to us again, what exactly and specificly is the problem you are having. You hinted at previous problems, but what is your specific problem right now? Does your car not idle correctly, or is it something with the shifting on the transmission?

If you have not done so, you need to readjust the TPS sensor per these instructions.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sting3.jpg

basically this is the problem:

"The idle goes high when its cold started, around 2k rpm then holds there... it drops when i click it into N or D

When its warm/hot it turns on around 1,5 ish then drops to .5 which i believe is where it should be..

Dont know if this is relevant but i lost power to my passenger side power window actuator.. from my driver side master control.. but regained control when i pressed the passenger side button.. "

the idle shouldnt be that high should it?

Can you set it to low idle by tapping the gas pedal?

yea it backs down when i touch the pedal

what is it with people having the exact same problem as me, im cursed!! i guess its just a common subie problem at high mileage
but mines been doing it for years
i doubt its related to the window at all, mine does that, i think its just a switch problem but im not sure
i think the manual says that idle is supposed to be 700rpm, mine runs from 450-500rpms, sometimes it gets rough too, even though i set the idle screw higher, it didnt change a thing

ive always assumed it was the TPS but at $300, and no junkyard finds so far, i havent done anything about it
my O2 hasnt been replaced in at least 3 years

I beleive every car I've ever had that was fuel injected did this at cold starts. The Subie's owners manual says it is normal on page 6-6. It usually goes away in 60 - 90 seconds. It is best to let it do its thing so that the oil can start to flow before steping into the throttle. But i'm not sure.

Alternator ok? Voltage should be over 14V when engine running. Had similar problem - rough idle. Alternator died, changed that and now idle is running almost normal.

Something else to do is replace the vacumn hose with new stuff.

I thought my iac really needed cleaning, and to be truthful it probably does, but by accident I fixed most all of my idle problems. I was installing a boost gauge and instead of cutting the existing line to put a t in I attached a new piece off the nipple on the passenger side of the manifold. Evidently it was leaking and was causing my idle problems. It was tight, but not overly so and the new hose was much tighter. The difference in the car was amazing as it not only idled better, but all other aspects of engine performance were improved, better low end and much smoother.
It's cheap and easy and should be one of the first things we do when we have an idle problem I guess.

Jeff

orinoco wrote:Alternator ok? Voltage should be over 14V when engine running. Had similar problem - rough idle. Alternator died, changed that and now idle is running almost normal.

Ditto.

My car still idles high on a cold startup. I think that a 2000 rpm idle is a little extreme though. It would be much more reasonaable to see 1200 and there would be less wear and tear on a cold engine with the lower idle speed.

Jeff