legacycentral bbs

Hey, i was wondering where the cheapest place is to find the SS brake lines. I saw them on tirerack for $108 US, can i find them any cheaper? Thanks, also looking to do the front rotors and pads.

$100 is about the going rate for good lines (I recommend goodridge). They're not something you want to get from some random e-bay vendor.

tirerack, importrp.com, and wrxbrakes all have good prices on rotors and pads.
Stick with blank rotors. Brembos aren't very much.

Hawk HPS and EBC red/yellow stuff might be the only easily obtainable performance pads for your car. I was happy with the Hawks.

Fluid:
ATE superblue is great because you know when you are done flushing. $12 a quart (more than enough for a flush).
Otherwise valvoline synthetic is great, or motul rbf600 if you want to spend $15 a pint.

awesome thanks alot! Im looking at the Goodridge G-Stop Brakeline Kit.

Hmm, just wondering you think the OE pads are good? I really want to keep the budget down. Ill have to find someone with the brembo rotors or just get my rotors turned there no warped BADLY just i feel a TINY pulse, in the brake pedal, not in the steering wheel. Because the metal tax will be insane! Ill probably just get the pads for $27 which isn't much. Im thinking these brake lines, and good fluid will make a very significant change in my brakes.

For rotors, if they are still in spec as far as thickness, bedding in the pads might get rid of the pulsation. Otherwise most parts store rotors are cheap and straight, which is all you really need.

For daily driving around OEM pads are fine but if you ever want to auto-x or drive on a fun mountain road they will not handle it. If you are putting in SS lines I assume you want increased braking performance for some reason, and pads that can withstand higher temps will make a big difference if you even drive down a long, steep pass.

Redstuffs and yellowstuffs aren't much more than oem I don't think from an online vendor. If you don't want to spend the money for hawks, Axxis metal masters are a less expensive option a step down from the pads I mentioned.

You have a good point. See I am mainly changing to SS lines because i can bottom out my brake pedal(fluid is 15 years old) and i just want a more solid feeling in the brakes. You think im spending the money wrong and i should just go for OE pads, and rotors, and bleed the fluid?

absolutely replace the fluid and check the MC before you do anything.

Reasons for a brake upgrade:

1) increase heat capacity
2) improve pedal feel
3) bling
4) alter brake bias (and possibly stopping distance)

if your pedal is hitting the floor there is something else wrong. Either you have air in the lines, the pads are glazed over, or the master cylinder is bad. If the pedal sinks to the floor under your foot after you press it down like halfway you need a new master cylinder. They're actually not that expensive or hard to change but bench bleeding them (which is necessary for getting all the air out) can be a pain.

I am partial to vacuum bleeding. A mityvac is $35 and does a pretty good job. Your arm will get tired and it doesn't pull a very high vacuum continuously, though it still beats the hell out of pumping the brake pedal. The process is very simple - attach tubing to bleed screw, pump up handle, crack bleed screw, close it before the vacuum drops to 0, repeat.

Ok, ill go get some good brake fluid and possibly the mityvac. Im not looking for high performance really, just good performance, and safe brakes.

I have grown quite fond of vacuum bleeding brakes, but speed bleeders also make it very convenient.

+1 for speed bleeders...

I just got my front brakes done at the local Subaru dealership, and I stuck with oem replacement rotors, pads, and fresh fluid. They feel great, and are well enough equipped for my passionate driving.

+1 for the 100 average for the ss lines.. well worth it in my opinion. my only issue was installing them and having them run through the strut mount and not having the retaining clip thingy match up on all the corners.

+1 like mentioned before for the speed bleeders which make life very easy...

Tip: zip tie your ss lines to your struts - otherwise they rub and can fail...

Know1 - oem brakes are pretty good, no?

But I wouldn't do a track day on them and expect them not to fade. So i guess it's what you are trying to acomplish...yeah for jetting between stoplights, no problem.

+1 one for aftermarket roters DBA and Brembo slotted and dimpled/slotted DBA's

They're just cool.