legacycentral bbs

ok er buddy. this is what ive got so far. not really sure how much power ill be makeing. you decide.


rallitek - perfect power 6 piggy back
modified stock injectors to 590cc
walbro 255plh pump
fuel presser regulator
fuel presser gage
AEM wide band
Deadbolt tdo5 16g turbo
hallmens boost controller
boost gage
oil presser gage
02 wrx topmount
3" tbe

ground control coils
kyb agx sturts

im also going to fix and replace some stuff:

intake manifold gaskets
throttle body gasket
front seals
timing belt
replace broken or old vacume lines


some of the stuff ive already have bought. this is just a build im thinking on doing for starters.

Is this on a stock turbo motor? how many miles? If you are pulling the motor, I would do the head gaskets, rebuild the heads and do the rings... Its only time and money...

92ss satinsvoice wrote:ok er buddy. this is what ive got so far. not really sure how much power ill be makeing. you decide.


rallitek - perfect power 6 piggy back
modified stock injectors to 590cc ( I did the STI 565's)
walbro 255plh pump
fuel presser regulator ( no need)
fuel presser gage ( no need)
AEM wide band (may go there)
Deadbolt tdo5 16g turbo
hallmens boost controller
boost gauge
oil presser gauge
02 wrx topmount ( went 06)
3" tbe

ground control coils ( AGX+ H&R)
kyb agx sturts




some of the stuff ive already have bought. this is just a build im thinking on doing for starters.

Those modifications are what I have right now.
Pretty happy with it.

Took the liberty to "mod" some of your spelling and grammar, to make it a tad more readable

92ss satinsvoice wrote: This is what I've got so far. I'm not really sure how much power I'll be making; you decide.


rallitek - Perfect Power 6 piggyback
modified stock injectors to 590cc
walbro 255lph pump
fuel pressure regulator
fuel pressure gauge
AEM wideband
Deadbolt tdo5 16g turbo
Hallman boost controller
boost gauge
oil pressure gauge
02 wrx top-mount
3" tbe

ground control coils
kyb agx struts

I'm also going to fix and replace some stuff:

intake manifold gaskets
throttle body gasket
front seals
timing belt
replace broken or old vacuum lines


Some of the stuff I've already bought. This is just a build I'm thinking on doing, for starters.

ya ya.

the motor has 141k and runs great. i wasn't planning on pulling the engine because i dont have a cherry picker. yes i was going to run this set up on the stock motor.

i have to split the block to get to the pistions dont i. i was going to wait to rebuild the motor when ive bought some wiesco pistions and eagle rods but thats a long time from now.

but then again doug, you know your stuff so this options may play a roll in all this some time down the line.

Probably around 235whp? How hard do you plan on pushing it?

If you can't afford to rebuild the motor, I wouldn't really worry about installing all of that stuff right now.

You can pull the pistons without splitting the block. There's a plug you remove and you need to make a tool to pull the wrist pin clips. A motor rebuils isn't that expensive really, and like Phil said, if you can't afford that you probably shouldn't worry about modding it. I'm of the school that you do it right the first time to save yourself aggravation and expense down the road. That's why my car's never been done.

evolutionmovement wrote:You can pull the pistons without splitting the block. There's a plug you remove and you need to make a tool to pull the wrist pin clips. A motor rebuils isn't that expensive really, and like Phil said, if you can't afford that you probably shouldn't worry about modding it. I'm of the school that you do it right the first time to save yourself aggravation and expense down the road. That's why my car's never been done.

Everything above is true, but I wanted to add that if you are going to replace pistons, you are going to need to hone the cylinder walls.... I would have to guess that honing is nearly impossible without splitting the block.

It really doesnt cost that much more to split the block and rebuild the case.... I did it and im glad I did... I learned a lot, and it didnt cost that much extra....

Honing is about 90% not neccesary unless he lost a piston. I just tore down 2-3 blocks with 150 to 200 thousand miles on them. Perfect walls.

And if you want to pull the pistons, I will loan you my tool to pull the wrist pins.

Ive always been told that in order for the next set of rings to seat properly, you have to break the original glaze.... Is this incorrect?

I've taken three apart - one EJ22 with about 250k, a turbo with 173k, and another turbo with only 83k, but they all had original crosshatching and looked great (even the #3 cylinder in the EJ22 with all those miles and the melted chunks of valve I cleaned out of it). Hell, all the bearings, both cam (though there's no actual separate bearings for it) and crank, on the EJ22 looked excellent. I bet they would've gone another 100k.

I don't believe that. Why? Because I have done a few motors with new rings, and drove it withen 50-200 miles to DEQ and passed fine.

thanks Doug that would be awesome. if i where to rebuild the heads, think i would go all out and get the 3 angle valve job, port & polish.

i would like to keep the single cam heads for the low end and mid power. i love torque .