legacycentral bbs

I have a V.2 slant mount awaiting install on my car.
It is said that the closer to the TB, the better for the BPV supply.
So, why not tap the I/C just to the right (pass' side) of the outlet on that flat spot for a 90* 3/4" (or appropriate) pipe nipple? Then run the line, through the BPV, to the corresponding nipple on the coffee can mod.
Has this been done? Or am I behind the curve, and need to learn how make better use of the search button?

you know what i am not sure why it hasnt been done. that is where it is on a WRX IC isnt it?

On a WRX intercooler it is on the left (driver side) near the thottle body.
I'm wondering why it wouldn't work with a pipe nipple for the hose instead of a mounting flange(like the WRX).
Or do people just not want to cut up their JDM epuipment?

beatersubi wrote:On a WRX intercooler it is on the left (driver side) near the thottle body.
I'm wondering why it wouldn't work with a pipe nipple for the hose instead of a mounting flange(like the WRX).
Or do people just not want to cut up their JDM epuipment?

Personally, I prefer not to hack up anything, in case it goes wrong.

I was looking at that as well, I think you would have to TIG a bung onto the end tank, I don't think the tank wall is thick enough to tap and have enough thread grip. I'm thinking of having a 1/2" plate TIG welded on then I can drill that to accept the pipe nipple.

While we're on the slanty hacking thread, does anyone have input on whether I should hack up a perfectly good slanty i/c chargepipe to use it with a vf11? I'll probably go TD05-16g later. If I cut the "bellows joint out of the chargepipe and leave a slight lip on it, will it still have enough integrity to clamp a hose onto?

To expand on that threadjacking...
Is the slant chargepipe hard to find? I think I might need a new one as the one I recieved with the I/C is already pretty hacked.

rockethound wrote:I'm thinking of having a 1/2" plate TIG welded on then I can drill that to accept the pipe nipple

With npt being tapered, I would think that you could simply drill the appropriatly sized hole and use a good sealing compound then thread a pipe nipple in 'til its tight, no? If you used a 90* you could thread it to be 'pointed' directly at the intake.

1/2" is a bit thick, isn't it? I'd think 1/8" would be sufficient.
Anyway, post some pics of your intercooler if you do weld a plate on?

Hehe, sorry about the threadjacking, it looked semi related the endtank looks to be about 3/16 wall so yah, 1/8 to 3/16 plate would give enough material to work with. It shouldn't matter which side of the front tank outlet you choose, the nipple on the factory chargepipe for the non-i/c'd setup opens just before the TB. I'll let you know when I'm done.

For anyone else who runs a topmount and might be following this...
Where do you have your BPV charge air routed from? How well does it work? And could you provide pics for us visual learners?

rockethound...
Hows your i/c BPV nipple coming?

The trouble with a 1/2" plate is you need a ton of heat to tig it. I would just get a 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" 90 that is .083 or .095 wall and tig that on it would be way easier.

beatersubi,
sorry it took a while to respond. I cut the 90 off the nipple leaving a 1/2 in. stub sticking out which I threaded 1/2npt and installed a Mr Gasket straight fitting. I ran a tight 90 hose from that to bpv and another from the bpv to the inlet elbow. I'll post pics soon.
It works great and almost looks factory.

Jeff

Yes, please post pics! I'd like to see how you have this configured.

rockethound wrote:I cut the 90 off the nipple leaving a 1/2 in. stub sticking out which I threaded 1/2npt and installed a Mr Gasket straight fitting.

I'm confused about what was cut, and what was left. Pics would help a lot. Did you end up adding metal to the end tank?

For now, I've got a plastic pipe fitting w/ a plastic nut siliconed into one of the pre-IC silicone hoses.