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I'm still making my 90 Lego better than new - re-plumbed PCV system with all brass fittings, new GR-2's all the way around, new Goodridge SS brake lines, ATE Subaru...erm...Superblue brake fluid, completely dismantled and tossed-out air conditioning, and new gaskets everywhere I could get to.

In my search for increased reliability and driveability, I've run into a problem. One of my rear hard lines has sprung a leak. OK, not too horrible...I reckon...yikes, I've never touched the brakes.

I already had the back seat pulled in anticipation of new rear struts so aside from the 3 bolts there, I didn't have to look far. Once I determined that the two lines on the passenger side of the car were my brakes, I started nosing around and *gasp* one line was so rusted that the entire bottom half was missing.

Still, no problem. I disconnected the lines from the very nearby connection under the body and start to push the line up and *snap*. OK, no cutty-cutty there! I proceeded to disconnect the line above with my hacksaw and filed it down nice and flat.

Tried to put a double flare on it and...ARGH...stupid Ampro double-flaring tool from Advance Auto is a piece of junk...plus it's my first time so...no-go. Had to try twice. Finally I get 'er sealed there.

I start the car and slowly depress the stop pedal...which goes to the floor. I throw down a white paper towel and discover a leak coming from the same are which I'd just attempted to fix.

I've no clue if the darn line I just put in cracked or if the other old line was rusty as well. I hope it comes easier this time.

Just for the record, brakes suck. And I wish I could find an easier-to-use double-flaring tool. The one I've got sucks more than the brakes do.

Grr.

I think they only way to make this work is to replace the entire brake line. Not a happy thing, as it entails removing the carpet. I have a 91 with a broken line, and it has sat in my garage for over a year now with me trying to decide if I want to part it out or junk it. To top it off it has decided to not start so I cannot even move it around. the trunk is currently a work bench for me now!

A more expensive, but possibly easier, repair might be to replace the entire line -- from the master cylinder to either the caliper or the existing Goodridge line -- with stainless steel braided line.

I would replace any line that shows signs of rust damage. You don't want any hokey-dokey stuff like that going on.

vrg3 wrote:A more expensive, but possibly easier, repair might be to replace the entire line -- from the master cylinder to either the caliper or the existing Goodridge line -- with stainless steel braided line.

Vikash comes out of nowhere to post crazyness...


get a better flare tool and it should be fine. I'd think there's some sort of a readily available tubing you can replace sections with.

haha yeah hard lines can suck.. how far from the crack or break did you attempt to reflare??? i would go back atleast two inches maybe more to get solid tubing again.. if not with the tool your using your just crushing the rusty tubing. there really isn't a better tool then one then the one from the auto store well there is but not worth the time to find it.. just take a minute and do it SLOW if you crank that handle too quick it will flare out a bit more then it should... good luck