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I finally got the custom intake tube to put the newer 45 degree airbox on the car. No more resonator box. While I was at it I replaced the airbox inlet with a piece I got off of a Volvo airbox. The id is 2 11/16 so it is quite a bit larger than the piece I had on it. I don't remember what Volvo it was, sorry. It fit the hole so tight I had to open it up slightly and the rubber seal had to go.

I removed the velocity stack from the old box and put it in the new one. The car now runs so much better. It pulls harder and longer on top, but what I really noticed was the added torque going up hills. I used this same performance parameter when I put the underdrive pulley on. Even after putting the pulley on there was a hill that was a chore for the car in 4th gear. No more. It goes up and over the hill now with ease. I am one happy puppy. Well worth doing.

I know you guys would like pictures, but I don't have a clue how to do that so, sorry again.

Jeff

ttiwwop

What is that supposed to mean?

This Thread Is Worthless With Out Pictures.

Sounds like it worked pretty well for you. You're still using a regular filter box and pulling air from the fender correct?. It would be cool to see some pictures. Give us a better feel for what you did. Which part of posting the pictures is troubling you?

I'm using a filter box from a later model car that the maf housing comes off at a 45 degree angle towards the middle of the car. The stock box had the maf pointing straight back. I got rid of two 90 degree bends, the one where the maf met the box and the elbow right after the maf.

There are some pictures of another persons similar mod a few threads down. I used a 3 to 2 1/2 reducer and a 2 1/2 aluminum 45 degree tube. It's very short as there isn't much room.

I have an ancient computer and no way or knowledge of how to load the picture etc.

Jeff

For the picture of a similar setup check out the pictures in the thread I just bumped to the top (Cold air intake)

The airbox has to flow alot better as the entrance to the maf is unshrouded. The wall of the stock airbox is very close to the entrance to the maf and the air has to make a 90 degree bend to get in. The newer airbox is all open on the top so thee is more volume and a straighter shot to the maf. Just looking at the difference in the two I would think the new setup would flow twice as well.

Jeff

Yeah, you can see my setup in the thread that Jefferson bumped. Its been a year now, with no issues whatsoever. If you guys want any pictures of it with the clamps and whatnot, I'd be glad to take some tomorrow.

EDIT - I did have a pic of it all clamped up. I'm just putting the link becuase the picture is ginormous. http://image36.webshots.com/37/8/65/69/ ... CeJ_fs.jpg

Here's pictures of Jeff's setup

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... elbow1.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... elbow2.JPG

Did you make or buy the aluminum 45 degree tube?

I had a local shop fab it up. I did a bunch of measurements and drawings, but I don't think he used them. I would love to have the welder and such to do it myself.

The big problem was getting everything to fit in the space. I had tried several other things and nothing was fitting. Spent alot of time at the pic andull looking for items that might have worked. There was always something that precluded it's use though.

Finally figured the only way was to have it fabbed. I could buy the pieces, but the welding was the kicker.

Jeff

Well at least it's probably the most durable thing in the intake plumbing now.

and so much better than those flow restricting 90's

Jeff

Any chance you'd be willing to take measurements of the actual piece?

The elbow is a 2 1/2" aluminum 45. It actually had to be expanded in order to fit tight in the elbow going to the turbo. He used an exhaust expander to do that and it could look better and be a better circle , but it is hidden and I am pretty sure it seals well. I would do it differently if I was doing it.

The inner radius length is 3" and that is straight from edge to edge. The outer radius measures 4 5/8".

The silicone reducer has a height of 3" and reduces from 3" to 2 1/2".

The thing that makes this difficult is the height difference between the maf and the elbow going to the turbo, and then there isn't much room to deal with. What I ended up with is not ideal but about as good as it is going to get. The flex part of the elbow to the turbo is angled down some, but I don't see any way around it in order for everything to meet up.

I looked up the parts and it would cost around $60 plus the tubing for the iac connection. Then the fab and welding which is what will run things up.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

Ah, so it did start as a simple 45-degree elbow. Neat.

The stock resonator's fitting that connects to the turbo elbow has an outer diameter of 65mm -- just a couple of millimeters larger than 2.5", so I'd imagine he didn't have to expand it a whole lot.

Thanks!

it's expanded more than you think. I couldn't get 2 1/2" anywhere i measured. The straight piece may be that OD, but in the bend I don't think it is.

Useing the exhaust expander means there are flats and angles instead of a smooth concentric circle. I would have prefered him to cut a piece of the straight section, then split it and weld it over the end to give it the extra thickness. I think it would flow better besides.


Jeff

Hm. Interesting. I wonder if a 1-1/2" copper street elbow might be a more suitable starting point. Then you could Dremel in a hole and solder on a 3/4" elbow for the IAC...

That should work, although didn't you mean to say 2-1/2" street elbow? The extra weight is the only downside I can see.

Jeff

Yes, I did mean to say 2-1/2".

That is a pretty cool set-up!