legacycentral bbs

i just put my engine back in after pulling it, rebuilding the heads somewhat, and cleaning a lot of shit. did new belts pcv hoses and injector seals, along with numerous seals on the engine.

unfortunatley my crossover pipe was broke in half so its not on the car atm.

im sure everything is hooked up and theres fuel getting to the cylinders since the plugs had fuel on em. i still havent chacked for spark but since i get the occasional "pop" i figured its there. still need to check.

i cranked it for about a minute without fuel or spark but i did leave the plugs in. (probably should have taken them out to reduce load). it spun fine and didnt make any odd noises which made me feel good.

so now with everything hooked up, i crank it while being jumped and it dosent catch at all. ivery once and i while i hear a pop, but th eodd thig is every few tries, while cranking itll just stop turning and make a noise of something scraping or touching. it kinda sounds like the starter found a bad tooth or wasnt engaged right. im thinking that the timing tensioner i got was no good and didnt hold, making the belt jump. i hope not. ej22t is non interference right???? lol

starting to freak me out so i came inside for a smoke and to post this.

when i get un lazy and go back out to check shit, ill be looking over:

*timing make sure everything is lined up properly - cams pointing their notches straight up at the divots in the covers, crank sprocket pointing up at the divot in the position sensor, and all marks on timing belt lined up

*plugs check them for signs of nasty shit in cylinder fouling them out - i put oil in through the plug holes to get ring seal and to make myself feel better about the cylinders lubrication.

*spark while plugs are out check them on the wires while cranking to see if they actually get spark

*engine codes obvious starting point. but! im confused on whether or not itll pull valid codes after sitting for 8 months and being cranked over just today. i am considering trying to delete them by plugging bothe the black and green conectors.

*BIG ONE1111111 - i need to find out if my injectors are plugged into the correct connector on the harness. on my manual, (subaru oem) the passenger side bank was labeled correctly for the colors/connector but the drivers side bank didnt match.

i appreciate anything else you guys can come up with for me to check. thanks

Just for clarification.....you don't have the cross-over pipe installed, and you're trying to start the car?

i would definately look into timing. if the belt is off by 1 notch it will just pop and spin over forever. I would take the timing belt completely off and try again.

Legacy777 wrote:Just for clarification.....you don't have the cross-over pipe installed, and you're trying to start the car?

yea , it may sound retarded but i just wanted to get it going and let it idle for my peace of mind.

You have the compressor in your intake track that is not allowing your engine to breathe freely!

Without the exhaust gasses to spin the turbine and compressor, you're going to get very little air flow through the compressor housing.

Don't try and start the engine until you have everything properly put together.

very good point! i really thought it wouldnt make a huge difference but it is worth the thought. my flex pipe is busted in half so i gotta get it welded and that may take a minute..... lazyness.

but yea i just took everything apart and i think it had either skipped or i put the timing belt on wrong. what really makes me think the tensioner was no good is, i was trying to loosen the crank pulley while honding a cam gear bolt to stedy it, and it would skip teeth on the crank sprocket. ive got another tensioner i can try so im gonna do that.

That's not a good indication that the tensioner is bad. The belt is designed to rotate in a certain direction. The arrangement of the pullies keep the belt tight only in that direction, so depending on which cam gear bolt you were holding, it could still skip a tooth on the crank sprocket. I've done this before, and had to go back and redo the marks.

ok thats reassuring. good shit

well my timing is proper, i just redid it in the driveway. also put a waterpump on and the crosspipe. i try to start it and its the same shit. it cranks nice and fast then slows real quick like it hit something and then keeps cranking. when the sound occurs its only 1 crank long.

i have a code 22 for a knock sensor but i dont think that would make it not run.

someone help me out!

ok im stiiting in the car typing this. i just went and redid the timing to make absolutel sure everthing was spot on. it is.

i just jumped the car and let it charge for a while, it turns over just fine, but it wont catch. i made sure there was fuel b pulling the line off of the filter, and there was pressure. i also checked spark at cyl #1 and i had spark. i still only have a code 22. i dont get it this thing dosent make sense.

are the cam gears interchangable? is it possible i put them on the wrong sides and the cam angle sensor is not putting out signal? i am fucking stumped!

Ej22TIM wrote:i would definately look into timing. if the belt is off by 1 notch it will just pop and spin over forever. I would take the timing belt completely off and try again.

Not quite, had a friend that ran his for a year one tooth off, started fine idled grate had great top end but fell on its face if you floored it at low rpm. I've also seen belts off on customer cars, most never notice because they don't drive there cars very hard. The cam gears arn't interchaingable, one is longer to make up for the head offset. try squirting a little oil down the spark plug holes, i've seen a couple engines put back together a little too dry and they actually will loose enough compression to not start. Also if you've been trying to start your car for this long you may have washed your cylinder walls down with all the fuel you've been pumping in there. just a stab in the dark

yea i did the oil thing for ring seal btu it didnt seem to do much. its odd it spins but wont catch, it seems like a cam or crank angle senor is out of whack. so on the cam gears though, one key is longer than the other? theres no way to put them on the wrong sides. fuck that was looking good in my head. would have been an easy fix!

also can anybody check the wiring colors for the injector plugs? i checked in my fsm but it only ad correct colors for the passenger side bank. im fairly sure they arent plugged in right on the other side

Just to make sure, you're using the timing mark on the back of the crank gear, and not the arrow....??

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legacy777 i fucking love you. i would paypal you money right now for that last post of yours.
after re looking at the fsm, the alignment mark is NOT the little triforce looking mark on the crank gear. there is an actual mark on one of the teeth of the reluctor wheel thats on the rear of the crank gear.

thanls you for all your help. im gonna go and make that shit run tommorrow!!!!


also im gonna do a full pic tutorial on how to do a timing belt on a ej22t, so that this type of shit wont happen to anybody else. this is about the dumbest mistake ive made on this car sofar...lol

Glad to hear that was only the issue. Don't feel bad....others have done the same thing.

FYI I do have some pictures of my timing belt change on my ej22
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... imingbelt/

now i just gotta get the injectors plugged itno the correct spots, my fsm has em labeled wrong. it revs up to about 3k and thats it. so im guessing its only 2 cyl firing.

Is it missing/sputtering?

How does it idle? If it idles fine, chances are the engine is running on all four cylinders.

Have you tried pulling the injector plugs while the engine is running to see if it runs worse?

yea it jus started up fine, it idles ok, hunts slightly and thats about it. it wont really rev past 4k and sometimes it acts like it wants to stay up there.
it also sprang a code 15 and a code 17.

but seriously,FUCK MY LIFE!!!

the god damn clutch pressure plate i just bought from clutch net dosent want to disengage all the way without the cable being tightened, allowing no free play (cable trans)

even worse, i go to check my oil, its low, and looks slightly milky.
even better for some reason the rear main is now leaking like a civ.

im about to just part the car. this is too much bullshit for me to deal with. i really dont want to get rid of it, i love the way it looks and drives but this thing is just too much trouble.
when i pull the engine im gonna inspect the rear and think long and hard about what i want to do. but seriously i dont think its worth the trouble. the chassis has like 300k miles. i just dunno wtf to do.

i may just buy a base model and swap body parts so it looks nice.