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Posted: **Mon Nov 05, 2007 11:26 pm**

Recently I bought some new suspension goodies for the car and last weekend I installed an ALK. I would have also liked to replace the steering rack and bushings, and put in subframe lock bolts and outrigger bushings but I had some other, more urgent, car repairs to make.

Here is my pile o' parts:

My right LCA bushing was leaking anyway so I needed this kit, right?

Beers were also required, and we attempted to do some exhaust work:

As long as you have a really big wrench the old parts aren't too hard to get off. Lift the car, undo the bolts, and pry the arm downward to remove the old one.

Here you can see how it changes the suspension geometry:

Installation is pretty simple. Clean off the control arm, grease things up, and bolt it back on.

You need to do this with the wheels at full droop, then lower the car and do the final tightening. 180lb-ft for the link to chassis, and 220 or something for the bushing to control arm. Tighter than I could get it, so when I get the car aligned after I install the rest of my parts I'll have the shop do it.

I've only driven a few miles and to work so far, and I am really, really liking things. The difference is incredible. When I turn the wheel, the car turns right away. The front end seems to have more grip, especially under throttle, and the whole car feels more stable while cornering. I'll have to go out driving one of these days and post a more thorough review.

There is more nvh, but I don't have a problem with it. The impact from expansion joints and bumps is sharper and you can really feel where the control arm mounts to the chassis. This is the "sport," there are also comfort and race versions.

Bonus picture I took on the way to work this morning:

Posted: **Tue Nov 06, 2007 1:24 am**

That Taurus is Hot!!!!!

Literally

Posted: **Tue Nov 06, 2007 1:39 am**

+1 for Newcastle!

No annonymous alcoholics here!

Posted: **Tue Nov 06, 2007 3:15 am**

would you mind puting up some part numbers for us retarded ppl that have a hard time figuring out what exactly to order.

Posted: **Tue Nov 06, 2007 5:29 am**

The part you want is the KCA319. Turninconcepts will sell you one for $180 shipped, which is the best deal I've seen. I was in a dealership and bought this on a whim for a bit more than that. Since it was all they had in stock I got the KCA359, which is the same thing but with all the subframe spacers to put them on a wrx. I'm just going to sell them for $30 or whatever on nasioc.

Posted: **Tue Nov 06, 2007 5:39 am**

I like how the taurus' wheels are clean and look virtually unscathed. Did they clean the rims after the fire? Ha! Only in Killafornia. .

Posted: **Tue Nov 06, 2007 5:47 am**

*scratches head* I didn't know that bushing had fluid in it...

Posted: **Tue Nov 06, 2007 7:48 pm**

subyluvr2212 wrote:*scratches head* I didn't know that bushing had fluid in it...

They don't last I checked, that looks like CV axle grease.

Posted: **Tue Nov 06, 2007 8:03 pm**

If anything it's p/s fluid, although I'm pretty sure they are fluid filled. I guess I could cut an old one open to see. The bushing was pretty trashed when I pulled it out.

In this picture, you can see my intact CV, along with some other neat parts. The wheel bearing and hub on that corner are also less than a year old.

Here's the other side for comparison:

They're different because I replaced the passenger control arm after I bent mine.

Additional impressions:

The two onramps and corner by my office brought huge smiles to my face this morning. I really can't wait to straighten the rear end out, replace my leaking steering rack, and get the car aligned. I also really want some RCE camber plates.

Posted: **Tue Nov 06, 2007 10:01 pm**

As far as I've seen, only some engine mounts were fluid filled.

Posted: **Wed Nov 07, 2007 2:30 am**

whateva. This is about the alk not what the old crappy bushings may or may not be made out of. Here's some info about my new part straight from the horse's mouf:

- Static or dynamic caster and "caster loss"
Whiteline tries to focus on dynamic alignment figures rather than absolute static numbers. A good example is the ALK, it may only add +0.5 deg caster but the bush and mount design is tailored to minimise dynamic "caster loss". This is a significant issue that is being addressed more and more by the OE engineers and is of particular importance for performance brands like Porsche, Ferrari etc. .....
------------------------------------------------
The Whiteline anitlift kit was primarily designed to remove the stock anti-lift geometry by relocating the rear of the front lower control arm pivot point down by 19mm. This was its main purpose as we found that the stock geometry promoted power understeer on corner exit.

However, being big positive caster fans, we also threw in some extra sprinkles with an additional +0.5 degree static caster and redesigned the bush to deliver around +1.0 degree dynamic caster by reducing "caster loss". To help understand the importance of this from a chassis design point of view, think of when you're most in need of extra caster, initial turn-in or corner entry. And unfortunately most of the time the car at this point is either decelerating at a coast or under brakes which is when the wheel is trying to bury itself into the back of the guard (resisting body moving forward) deflecting the bushings and loosing caster. (Duncan, thanks for the summary)

15 years ago, performance cars like the Porsche 928, Honda NSX and others would suffer up to -2.5 degree dynamic caster loss which is a worry if you only started with +2.5. We know this because of a paper published by the lead chassis designer of the MacLaren F1 supercar who quoted that this was one of their main targets and goals for the dynamic behaviour.

Interestingly, he also quoted that the ideal solution revolved around a carbon-fibre composite suspension carrier but that was ruled out as being too expensive.... how much did that car retail for?

It's always a compromise.

Hope that helps

Best
Jim

Whiteline Automotive

Taken from here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... 170&page=3

Posted: **Wed Nov 07, 2007 3:03 am**

It might be tough to compare coming from warn components, but does it dive more under braking and does it seem to roll more at the front in turns?

Posted: **Wed Nov 07, 2007 6:27 am**

So far I haven't really noticed anything. I'm still getting used to tires that actually have grip, so there's more roll and dive just from that. Plus my car doesn't have much brake dive or body roll anyway.

I intend to post a more thorough review in a few weeks.

Interesting occurance this evening:

Went up an onramp that started with a slow 180 degree corner and stomped on it with my slushbox selector in 1 (which forces 50/50 split). Spun the crap out of the inside front. Not sure if it was related to the ALK but I think I'm getting an adjustable rear swaybar next.

Posted: **Thu Nov 08, 2007 4:43 pm**

All of the bushings of that style are gel filled. All 90-04 Legacy/Outback, 93-07 Impreza, 98-08 Forester, 03-07 BAJA. And they all leak after a while.

Posted: **Thu Nov 08, 2007 5:36 pm**

SemperGuard wrote:All of the bushings of that style are gel filled. All 90-04 Legacy/Outback, 93-07 Impreza, 98-08 Forester, 03-07 BAJA. And they all leak after a while.

Yep, he's right.

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2007 1:20 am**

SemperGuard wrote:All of the bushings of that style are gel filled. All 90-04 Legacy/Outback, 93-07 Impreza, 98-08 Forester, 03-07 BAJA. And they all leak after a while.

Thanks Hardy. So basically, any car that has the "hurricane" style bushings.

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2007 1:37 am**

nothing to see here

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2007 1:43 am**

Buttsecks?

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2007 2:00 am**

You probably spun the inside wheel due to the increased caster changing the camber more dramatically under roll. The greater caster angle will cause a more + camber change on the inside wheel and a more - camber change on the outside.

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2007 2:14 am**

evolutionmovement wrote:You probably spun the inside wheel due to the increased caster changing the camber more dramatically under roll. The greater caster angle will cause a more + camber change on the inside wheel and a more - camber change on the outside.

So, more swaybar, then?

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2007 2:29 am**

Or the anti-anti-lift made it easier to pick up the inside front. I don't think the big contributer was the camber of the tire on the road. But yeah I'll pick up a whiteline adjustable fairly soon. Harman-Motive was advertising rear legacy swaybars for $156, I'm waiting for them to get back to me about that applying to a BSR19XZ.

I liked the balance of the car with 18/18 bars but like the reduced roll of 20/18 even more.

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2007 2:31 am**

Geometry is geometry. You can try compensating for it, but then you bring a train of issues. Increasing front bar would increase understeer and negatively affect the ride. He made a compromise with the suspension by adding this, so I would assume he'd prefer the compromise he has now to the one he had before. The increased caster should make it handle better due to the outside wheel negative camber increase, add stability, reduce lift under acceleration, and heavy up the steering (a good thing imo, within reason).

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2007 2:31 am**

I have a set of these and like them!

You should get an alignment too. Then you'll really feel the love...

Good stuff! Thanks for the write-up!

Posted: **Sat Nov 10, 2007 2:40 am**

evolutionmovement wrote:Geometry is geometry. You can try compensating for it, but then you bring a train of issues. Increasing front bar would increase understeer and negatively affect the ride. He made a compromise with the suspension by adding this, so I would assume he'd prefer the compromise he has now to the one he had before. The increased caster should make it handle better due to the outside wheel negative camber increase, add stability, reduce lift under acceleration, and heavy up the steering (a good thing imo, within reason).

So, rather than upset the balance w/ bigger sway bar, would an LSD be the fix for the spinning tire problem?

Posted: **Sat Nov 10, 2007 3:11 am**

no matter what you do, if you have shitty tires they wont ever stick enought

legacycentral bbs

Whiteline ALK install and first impressions

Whiteline ALK install and first impressions