legacycentral bbs

so, what would need to be done to swap a 4eat out of a 02+ WRX into my legacy. i might have found a good deal on one.

also, would i need to get the rear differential to do the swap too?

-Ted

I think those have a 4.111 final drive, so you'd need a rear diff to match.

alright. so all i need is the rear diff to match, and it will bolt up? i just want to make sure i won't run into any surprises.

No, you'll want to make sure that the axles will mate up and the electronics will work together as well. I'm not sure about either of those, try searching around other forums like nasioc.

The shifter mechanism may be different too.

as well as the wiring. There are more solenoids in the transmission. Also going to have to swap out your speedo gears into the front diff of the WRX tranny. So if you can get the TCU, wiring, and find a 4.111 rear diff and 4 cv's(going to need the inners most likely) then definitely will work. I don't think it will make much difference though. Probably easier and cheaper to just fine the same year auto tranny. Stock tranny's can still handle quite a bit of power.

ericem wrote:Probably easier and cheaper tdo just fine the same year auto tranny. Stock tranny's can still handle quite a bit of power.

well, it would be easier, but its hard to find a low mileage transmission from the early 90's without buying a complete JDM clip

i guess i'll trash the wrx idea, and just keep an eye out for a low mileage t-leg 4eat

It might not be that hard if you also get the TCM. However the problem is that you're trying to use a Phase II tranny with a Phase I TCM.

Why not rebuild your old one? It's incredibly easy. And probably cheaper than a swap.

I know here often I see 90's transmission's with under 30k for only like $150-500. And have warrenty. Check ebay.

Hey Ted,

I saw this on Boulder Craigslist the the other day.

http://boulder.craigslist.org/pts/460546861.html

$650 85k from an 94.

damn, thats a bit more than i wanted to spend, but i just gave the guy a call. it was listed almost a month ago, so im not sure if its still there. if it is, that would work. plus its local, which makes everything easier.

thanks

You can rebuild your own for less than that, and have it be in better condition.

yeah, so that guy already sold it

Lurch: that guy has a bunch of parts leftover though, if you need anything. i don't need anything he had though.

could you go into who rebuilds them? i know two subaru master techs, so i can get it swapped in and out pretty easily for cheap.

oh, how do i tell if my rear diff is an LSD? also did any come with a front lsd? i know i have some sort of center LSD (probably viscous coupling, but i haven't looked into it too much)

LSDs say "LSD" on a tag on the back of them...but since your car is a 1994, it won't have one (1991 only)


And no Legacies came with front LSDs

i doubted that it would have a front lsd. and NO 94's came with an LSD rear? thats odd, since i thought it was an option at least.

so, any info on the transmission rebuild? is there a kit with all of the replaceable parts available for cheap or something?

You can pick up a full kit from like level ten or PDQ or someone for a couple hundred. Then just rebuild it yourself. Rip off the extension housing, rip off the front diff. Take the valve body off, pull off the oil pump, and start replacing cluches. Put it back how you took it apart. Then slam and bam!

There are only a couple things you have to look out for, but it really depends on how far you go. And I'm sure your buddies could help you out.

I think the real question is, what is wrong with the tranny? Have you done a line pressure, stall, or time lag test? Those will pretty much diagnose the tranny for you right there and might save you some money.

no, i haven't tested it. could you give me some info on that. it makes a very bad wining noise when i accelerate more than 1/4 throttle, but only does it after it has gotten warmed up after driving (around 15-20 minutes). it seriously sounds like a supercharger. it was also locking up, so when i would make a slow turn, the transmission itself would slow down the car to a stop instead of just going at idle speed, and when it did that, the whole car would jerk forward when it was turned off in park. it also just started rattling under full acceleration, which might be something else that just got knocked loose, but it sounds like its from the tranny.

Try putting the FWD fuse in see if it makes a difference and changing the transmission fluid. Also check the air in all 4 tires. Check the fluid as well!!! make sure there is fluid and that its red not black!

i was planning on doing a fluid change this weekend, but it snowed last night, so that might not be as easy as i planned. what is the recomended Redline fluids for the differentials and transmission?

air in all 4 tires is 40psi now (they were low, but i filled them up). all 4 tires also have similar tread, so i think the PO changed them all at the same time.

I know the transmission required Dextron II or III 3 or higher dextrons work just fine. Not sure on the differentials.

Too bad about that Boulder tranny already being sold. When I first saw it I thought about buying it for a future failure, but I think I'll go with the self rebuild route when that time comes. I've been hoping someone would do a tranny rebuild write up with pics.

My 4eat was making the same noise as you, I never took it apart to figure out what it was, so I can't tell you what exactly the problem is. Does the noise go away or get quieter with the selector in R, 3, 2, or 1? If it does or does not that can isolate the problem. If it goes away it means it's something related to D, if it doesn't it means its either something related to certain clutches, the planetary gears, oil pump, diff, or torque converter.

As far as the binding, it sounds like you've got bad transfers. You can get the whole kit full of shit from subaru for like $200. Or less if you buy less stuff, though it might not fix everything.

If it's just those two problems, and the tranny still seems to shift normally, you could probably get away with not spending too much money on it depending on what the noise is.

The stall and time lag test pretty much isolate which clutches/bands aren't working right, and the line pressure test verifies that pressure is or isn't causing the problem. I don't have the info on hand, but ask your buddies, they should have a manual you can read. You do need a pressure gauge and fittings for the line pressure though.

it shifts pretty good. a little hard sometimes, and the shift from 2-3 seems really long, like 2 or 3 seconds for the entire shift. it also stops wining during that shift.

i haven't played around in 1,2,3 in manual mode too much, so i don't know, but i belive it still makes the noise.

i think i need to call my buddy, get his take on it, and see how much he'll charge to rebuild everything. he did my alltrac transmission swap the first time, so i'll pretty much trust him with anything. i'll ask him about those tests too.

So the noise goes away after the transmission shifts into 3rd gear, or only goes away during the 2-3 shift? Is it present during 1-2 shift, and 3-4 shift? What about 4th gear?You don't have to press the manual button to shift into 1, 2, or 3. That button does other things. Not really what you expect it to. It is kind of hard to diag without hearing though.