legacycentral bbs

DAMN, damn, damn, damn, damn.
Well, just got my car checked out after it's overheating frenzy last
thursday.

Turns out, both head gaskets are blown big time.

The shop that i took it to says it's gunna cost $1500 to fix. That includes
new radiator, all gaskets, seals, and o-rings, a valve job, shaving the
heads, and a pressure check to make sure everything is good.

Anyone have any advice? Can a couple of able mechanics equipped with a
service manual be able to do this over a weekend? Would i have to pull the
engine?

On another note, one i wouldn't like to play, the shop owner said that if
all else fails, he would be willing to buy the car from me, as he is a
subaru fanatic.

Very frustrated.

Jason




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Well, depending on the miles and how much he wants to pay you, i'd
consider selling it and "upgrading".

I'm sure a few shadetree guys could probably do it...

I don't think you'd have to remove the engine, but you'd have to take
nearly everything else off the engine including headers, intake, belts
and anything that's in the vicinity of the head itself.

I'm sure you love your car, but losing a few MPG on a turbo is a small
price to pay for the grin on your face when you push down the pedal

--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "jason grahn" <jgrahn555@h...> wrote:
> DAMN, damn, damn, damn, damn.
> Well, just got my car checked out after it's overheating frenzy last
> thursday.
>
> Turns out, both head gaskets are blown big time.
>
> The shop that i took it to says it's gunna cost $1500 to fix. That
includes
> new radiator, all gaskets, seals, and o-rings, a valve job, shaving the
> heads, and a pressure check to make sure everything is good.
>
> Anyone have any advice? Can a couple of able mechanics equipped with a
> service manual be able to do this over a weekend? Would i have to
pull the
> engine?
>
> On another note, one i wouldn't like to play, the shop owner said
that if
> all else fails, he would be willing to buy the car from me, as he is a
> subaru fanatic.
>
> Very frustrated.
>
> Jason
>
>
>
>
>
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http://explorer.msn.com


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YES, two fairly mechanically adept mechanics should be able to do this
job.NO, you dont have to pull the engine.This car is actually fairly easy to
work on. I changed both head gaskets in a weekend,and one case of beer.I
could have done it in 6-8 hours without the beer,but it wouldnt have been as
enjoyable.Get a strong vise to collapse the cam belt tensioner(it is a very
strong spring),find a good automotive machine shop to resurface the
heads(it cost me $35 per side),small hands and lots of patience helps to get
the heads out of the car(it is tight between the block and the
fenderwells).The torquing sequence for reinstalling the head bolts may seem
overly complicated but follow it religiously.
Good luck BillC. P.S. Is your Radiator failing? I have one that is in
good shape from a 90 Legacy AWD auto tranny that I would sell to you for WAY
less than new.
----- Original Message -----
From: jason grahn <jgrahn555@hotmail.com>
To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 35 PM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] head gasket woes!


> DAMN, damn, damn, damn, damn.
> Well, just got my car checked out after it's overheating frenzy last
> thursday.
>
> Turns out, both head gaskets are blown big time.
>
> The shop that i took it to says it's gunna cost $1500 to fix. That
includes
> new radiator, all gaskets, seals, and o-rings, a valve job, shaving the
> heads, and a pressure check to make sure everything is good.
>
> Anyone have any advice? Can a couple of able mechanics equipped with a
> service manual be able to do this over a weekend? Would i have to pull the
> engine?
>
> On another note, one i wouldn't like to play, the shop owner said that if
> all else fails, he would be willing to buy the car from me, as he is a
> subaru fanatic.
>
> Very frustrated.
>
> Jason
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
_________
> Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
>


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Bugger!... if it was me, and assuming it is a DOHC...

Shopping list starts with...
- head gaskets (the latest composition sytle.. grey cardboard looking
things)
- cam cover gaskets and cam cover / spark plug hole gaskets
- rocker cover bolt seals
- tube of good silicon seal, and I insist on using head gasket sealant (some
USA made blue varnish stuff... forget the name... but good shit)

Works starts with...
- disconnect battery, drain and remove radiator
- disconnect / remove all external plumbing, exhaust, wires, brackets,
cables, bolts, nuts and gizmo needed to remove engine
- remove clutch release lever by removing clevis pin
- remove engine (2 hour job if you are good, have car and engine hoist, all
tools)

Dismantle engine by...
- removing cam covers, cam belt covers, cam belt, cam spockets, cams
- remove heads, pressure test, check head surface straightness, and machine
surface to absolute minimum and if only if absolutely necessary (avoid if
possible)

Reassemble by reversing the process, being careful to torque heads
correctly. The book procedure applies to using new replacement head bolts
only, and whilst the torque sequence is correct, most people don't replace
the bolts, ...so the book torque settings are no substitute for an
experienced hand on the end of the torque wrench when resusing the head
bolts.

Whilst you have the engine out, you may as well check the clutch, ...besides
it is easier to refit the engine if you remove the release bearing. The
clutch works in reverse to convention, the release bearing "pulls" on the
clutch fingers... not pushing.... and it easier to refit the bearing and
release lever to the transmission, than trying to get the release lever back
on to the release bearing later.

This is as easy as it sounds... and if you have the tools you can do the
heads quicker by removing the engine, than doing them in place... but if you
are young and agile, your back is pliable and you don't mind skinning your
knuckles, and the neighbours don't mind all the cussing as you work in the
blind whilst dropping things.. be a massochist and do the heads in place!

Word of warning... the temperature guage sensors on modern Jap cars are at
the top of engine... the temp guage needles goes up for a only moment as
coolant is lost ...then it goes back down as "I am not in hot water any
more"....and your engine fries. ie. the gauge is only a water temperature
gauge... no water, no temperature.

If you have been running the engine for more than a few minutes in this
frying condition, you may have done a lot of damage... have cracked heads,
and overheating may have caused the piston rings to loose their tension.

John Gillon

----- Original Message -----
From: jason grahn <jgrahn555@hotmail.com>
To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 95 AM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] head gasket woes!


> DAMN, damn, damn, damn, damn.
> Well, just got my car checked out after it's overheating frenzy last
> thursday.
>
> Turns out, both head gaskets are blown big time.
>
> The shop that i took it to says it's gunna cost $1500 to fix. That
includes
> new radiator, all gaskets, seals, and o-rings, a valve job, shaving the
> heads, and a pressure check to make sure everything is good.
>
> Anyone have any advice? Can a couple of able mechanics equipped with a
> service manual be able to do this over a weekend? Would i have to pull the
> engine?
>
> On another note, one i wouldn't like to play, the shop owner said that if
> all else fails, he would be willing to buy the car from me, as he is a
> subaru fanatic.
>
> Very frustrated.
>
> Jason
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
_________
> Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
>


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