legacycentral bbs

I used the search so dont be angry with me fellas.
My question is, I am putting ej20g heads and intake mani on my 22t and was wondering, how do I get the cam sensors to work?

I know they are different, is it an option to buy brand new 20g sensors and use them?
please dont tell me I have to swap out ecus just to do a head swap....

any suggestions?

thanks,

Wont the old EJ22T sensors bolt up?

I dont have the heads yet, but I have located heads and intake mani, complete with throttle body and injectors for CHEAP!

I have been told I have to swap for wrx wiring if I want to accomplish this? that sounds like bs, cant I just use 20g sensors?

I used the ej22t cam & crank sensors on my EJ20G & it runs off the ej22t ECU dam near perfectly (Idle gets a little low @ times, but it moves well!).

Here is the sensor/motor list for a DOHC running off a ej22t ECU for anyone who can use it.
EJ20G - TPS (I used the EJ20G t-body as it was bigger than the ej22t's), IAC, injectors
ej22t - ECU & wiring, MAF, MAP, Boost/exchange solenoid, Crank & Cam Pos sensors, alt., ps pump, a/c comp.

good luck!

Cam and crank sensors are not part of the intake manifold harness. There run along the top of the block straight back to the bellhousing area and connect directly to the engine bay harness.

The ej22t sensors should be a bolt on deal.

BXSS wrote:I used the ej22t cam & crank sensors on my EJ20G & it runs off the ej22t ECU dam near perfectly (Idle gets a little low @ times, but it moves well!).

Here is the sensor/motor list for a DOHC running off a ej22t ECU for anyone who can use it.
EJ20G - TPS (I used the EJ20G t-body as it was bigger than the ej22t's), IAC, injectors
ej22t - ECU & wiring, MAF, MAP, Boost/exchange solenoid, Crank & Cam Pos sensors, alt., ps pump, a/c comp.

good luck!

youre still using the 22t block right? I am talking about just swapping the heads and intake mani

We are taking about the '90s JDM EJ20G, not the USDM WRX heads, right?

I'm running a JDM EJ20G complete with its cam, crank, TPS, IAC, temp and knock sensors in my '91 SS on the stock EJ22T ECU with no problems. Everything pluged right in and fired up with no codes.

The later twin cam engines with the plastic (phenolic) timing pulleys that have the magnetic pucks used a different sensor that wont work with the old non-magnetic pulleys. But I have heard that the old sensor will work with the new pulleys.

Gary

Watching this - want to know how this turns out...

All_talk wrote:We are taking about the '90s JDM EJ20G, not the USDM WRX heads, right?

I'm running a JDM EJ20G complete with its cam, crank, TPS, IAC, temp and knock sensors in my '91 SS on the stock EJ22T ECU with no problems. Everything pluged right in and fired up with no codes.

Me too. Fact of the matter is that the TPS, crank, cam and temp sensors are the same on the two cars. Doesn't matter which one you use with which ECU. And the only difference with the IAC's is how they run the air and the coolant. Otherwise, they are interchangeable as well.

Using stock sensors bolted to the head worked fine for me.

thank you all so much for the input on this topic, I will be tearing the car down soon and I will keep you all updated

thank you all so much again!

regaurds,

The other guys answered already, but I am running a EJ20G off the ej22t ECU, & sensors as described above.

It was not possible to plug the EJ20G cam & crank sensor in on my motor ('95 WRX) as the sensors on the motor were the brown 2pin plug @ sensor & my '94ss has 3 wire plug @ bellhousing cam/crank sensors.
I just pulled the EJ20G cam/crank sensors & dropped the ej22t sensors in their place - the car started right up no probs to my amazement.

I do plan on doing the ej22t DOHC thing eventually, but will be standalone ECU @ that point.

BXSS wrote:The other guys answered already, but I am running a EJ20G off the ej22t ECU, & sensors as described above.

It was not possible to plug the EJ20G cam & crank sensor in on my motor ('95 WRX) as the sensors on the motor were the brown 2pin plug @ sensor & my '94ss has 3 wire plug @ bellhousing cam/crank sensors.
I just pulled the EJ20G cam/crank sensors & dropped the ej22t sensors in their place

Good point. I should have stated that the Legacy EJ20G sensors are the same. The WRX Ej20G ones were the newer sensors that no longer had built in wiring and had the plugs integrated into the manifold wiring harness. However, one could even us those sensors if they rewired it using a pigtail harness made out of the WRX end and running it to the wires on the firewall of our cars...

well, I have the trans out and I am waiting on an engine hoist to get the rest pulled out.

I will post some pics of the heads and intake manifold later tonite

Cool!

Off topic. Where do folks get EJ20G heads? I see the full motors f/s but rarely see just the heads?

If not a deep dark secret let everyone know.

Suppose after you get yours there's no need to hoard them. Are these getting harder to find???

Good luck on the install!!

AW

I sold

a set of EJ20G heads - complete
a EJ20G Intake manifold
grey 440cc injectors/rails
& timing covers

for $350ish+shipping - I'm getting old & can't remember the exact#.

The stuff was sitting in the parts shed for like 2-3weeks until it sold.

Just keep looking around & you can find this stuff, check RS25 & NASIOC classifieds too.

I payed 150 for all that stuff.

I don't get it - why is there a surplus of these heads? Are they all off bad blocks or do people "upgrade" to 2.5 heads? And where are they now? These are all JDM origin?

These are the best flowing heads out there right? I wish there was a sticky on the head sizes.

There's a good heads comparison thread on NASIOC that Matt contributed to, which also has pictures of various heads along with a discussion of port sizes and all the jazz that goes with heads and head mods. . .

Search?

Adam West wrote:I don't get it - why is there a surplus of these heads? Are they all off bad blocks or do people "upgrade" to 2.5 heads? And where are they now? These are all JDM origin?

These are the best flowing heads out there right? I wish there was a sticky on the head sizes.

There's a surplus of these heads for a couple of reasons. The first reason is that a lot of the cars running Ej20G and Ej20K swaps are at an age where they are spinning bearings and wearing out. This makes for a situation where you just buy a replacement longblock and install it or just take the bottom end and mate it to your heads. Either way, there's a spare set of heads and manifold available once the repairs are made.

Or you have guys like myself who buy the complete borked longblocks. I tear them apart and part them out to members here and on NASIOC. I currently have 4 bad Ej20 bottom ends in my garage. The heads were the first thing to go. The blocks are almost worthless unless you rebuild them like Douglas Vincent does. Then you can sell them by themselves or mate them to Ej22t heads for a cheap performance build.

Part of it is also freight. If a guy just needs some heads to mate to his ej22t bottom end, he doesn't want to pay $200 in frieght for a complete longblock. If I quote a guy $400 for a longblock plus $200 freight, or $300 or $350 for heads and manifold with $50 freight, which one do you think he's going to take?

Ej22TIM wrote:I payed 150 for all that stuff.

That was a steal....
I had a couple $100 offers for the bare EJ20G manifold by itself.

I think $300-350 is more of a realistic price for a fairly complete DOHC head-swap.

well heres a quick update,

Just by a glance I see a few things that WILL work and a few things that may be a problem.

first the good, it looks like the cam and crank sensors are going to work (w00t)
also the injectors plug into my harness also.

I will have some problems mounting my coilpack and from what I can tell, some headaches from the vaccuum dept.
I could also see the vaccuum line hookup being easier but I am not sure, I know its different though.

anyone remember if it was easy to trace and hookup the vaccuum lines?

also, mr Tax man has a present for me, so I am sending my cams out to delta for a "hot grind" top end and sexy idles here I come!

I was quoted 500 for the hot grind with a same day turn around and better whp increases than cobbs "spicy" setup at a fraction of the price.
and plus you get a free shirt!!! lol

oh, and I will try to get pics up tonite!!!!

ughh digital camera broken.


I am planning on painting the car as well as the head swap, so I will include some not so pretty pics of the body as well.


I am thinking I would want to do at least main bearings also, but would just an oem rebuild kit be worth it? or maybe some new forged pistons?
let me know what you think because I dont want to get this done and spin a bearing and have to pull everything apart again.

Personally, I think it's better to 'over-do' something than to 'under-do' (?) it.

I don't know if you're planning on trying to get more power from your car or not, but if you are then it would be a wise decision to get race bearings.

And who knows, maybe you don't want a lot of power right now, but maybe you will in 6 months. You never know...