legacycentral bbs

I'm a newbie to this forum, so please excuse if I've posted in the wrong section (mody please bump to appropriate section if so).

94 legacy turbo automatic, not sure of engine but prob ej22 (jf1bj6 are first vin #'s) has acceleration problems. Fine when first warmed up, but then sputters in idol intermittently. Also has problem after warming up @ higher speeds. On an uphill highway slope the engine sputters when trying to accelerate, making it feel like you're driving over the warning strips @ the edge of the road. When it's really bad it bucks. There's just no way to make it accelerate until downhill, when soft pressure on the gas pedal and time bring it back up to speed. This happens around 60 mph.

Also sometimes it's not bucking, but can't be pushed past a certain speed, 60 or so, no matter what the pressure on the pedal is. Think tach goes up, but speed stays down, although this doesn't seem to make sense so could be faulty memory. This has happened @ the 24 to 34 range on the tach.

There's a leak in the back of my engine-top radiator reservoir. Could it be affecting a sensor, throttle, or cruise control back there?

Poor gas mileage too. 12-18. Oxygen sensor never been changed since I got the car about 3 yrs. ago.

I know it's either electrical or fuel related, but don't have a clue where to start. Should I get an obd and check it that way? Can it be obd 2, or does it have to be obd 1?

Also, small thing. Rear defog connection loose from back window - is there an epoxy or something I can use to remake the connection?

Really need help w/engine - only car and afraid of breaking down on the highway somewhere.

Any and all help appreciated.

Is your check engine light on?

Start here
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html
Gets some codes and we can help from there.

the shaking could be something to do with your wheel bearings, or there's the transmission problem that happens "insert here" and has those same symptoms.

try putting higher octane fuel in it,it may help the shaking

Thanks for the quick replies. I will work on getting ecu codes. No 'check engine' lights.

Really don't think it's trans, definitely something in either electrical or gas (I'd say carburetion in old school parlance).

SubaruNation wrote:
try putting higher octane fuel in it,it may help the shaking

That will make no difference


To me, it sounds like you have a major coolant temp sensor issue. I would replace it, as it is only about $35 from the dealer

555BCTurbo wrote:

SubaruNation wrote:
try putting higher octane fuel in it,it may help the shaking

That will make no difference

weird?

It fixed the problem in my car?...

let me just bold something here for you so you can read it better

555BCTurbo wrote:

SubaruNation wrote:
try putting higher octane fuel in it,it may help the shaking

That will make no difference

Am already using 93 octane super, so can't go any higher than that.

Checked the ecu connectors. #1 (black) was a problem. Are the connectors ever split - green on left, black on right of steering column? Otherwise couldn't find black.

Connected small black connectors on right side of steering column all I got was flashing check engine, non-stop at short intervals. Not a code.

Connecting green connectors and following magicmike's link yielded a 31 error code (thanks mm).

31 Throttle sensor Abnormal voltage input entered from throttle sensor Sets throttle sensor's voltage output to a fixed value

Haynes says: TPS sensor is open or shorted.

So sensor is bad? Or just needs to be tweaked somehow?

Also - In key on position w/the green connectors together the little solenoid (?) behind the air filter housing ticks rapidly until engine started . Normal?

I'd replace the coolant temp sensor as mentioned. It's cheap and can cause a lot of problems if not working properly.

How long have you owned the car. Can you give us any maintenance history.

I'd recommend not running premium gas in the car. Run 87 or 89.

You can test the throttle sensor using this info on my server
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting2.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... sting3.jpg


Edit: Just to note, the resistance values for pins 2 & 4 should be 10-12 kohm when the throttle is closed. The 1st scan has the incorrect values. I will try and scan an updated copy with the correct values.

Legacy777 wrote:
I'd recommend not running premium gas in the car. Run 87 or 89.

Why do you not recommend premium Josh?

555BCTurbo wrote:

Legacy777 wrote:
I'd recommend not running premium gas in the car. Run 87 or 89.

Why do you not recommend premium Josh?

I'm sorry, I had a brain fart and thought he had an n/a.

..ahem

Hmmm. Only owned the car about 3 yrs. so beyond that my knowledge of maintenance is sketchy.

114k or so miles. Had an s-o-b tap before purchase, but revving the engine up to 4k got rid of that (blocked push rod or equiv. in boxter).

Since I've owned it I've done the usual maintenance: Oil, trans, differential, tune-ups, no major problems. Replaced left front axle (the bane of subarus everywhere!). I'm big on lucas treatments. 10w/30 in winter, 10w/40 in summer. Last oil change delayed, and ran a little
trans fluid in oil for detergent purposes.

First real problem I've had. 1st time happened was on highway when I kicked in cruise control. Was really bad then. Not as bad now, but problem waiting to happen.

The coolant reservoir is jury-rigged and leaking in the back (anyone know where I can get a metal reservoir?).

Can anyone recommend a good, inexpensive multimeter for testing?

Thanks all.

If your coolant tank is leaking your knock sensor is probably toast, even if the ECU doesn't think so. Hot coolant pouring onto the sensor tends to do bad things to it.

Your issue with driving uphill could be as simple as a loose ignition wire. When engine load is highest, the air/fuel mixture is hardest to ignite, and msifire is most likely. Have you checked your plugs and wires recently? Also, are you using the right stuff? Many people have found that Bosch plugs cause rough running in their Legacies; NGK BKR6E-11 is almost universally the recommended plug on this board.

Your car is not OBD-II compliant. Aside from measuring signals with a voltmeter and performing code reading and clearing with the test mode and read mode connectors, you can't scan your ECU without a tool made specifically for it. I believe some of the more fancy scan tools out there can do it, but you can also use one of two tools I've developed that you can read about in the Electrical forum.

This is an excellent beginner's multimeter:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482139000P

It's on sale right now and you should be able to just drop by your local Sears to get one. I've got two.

Using ngk plugs that haven't been changed for a while, don't know if they're the # you mentioned. About to change them out, so if I didn't buy the right ngk's I'll have to exchange them.

No constant check engine light to answer an earlier question.

Checked wires to coil and plugs, no loose connections there.

No testing tonight, because the weather isn't happening. Got the multimeter. Drove 10-12 miles to Sears in snow, forgetting that there was a hardware only Sears two towns over, but awesome fun to drive a Subaru in the snow while every one else flounders!

Will check out the electrical forums to see what you've come up with.

Cool.

See my new thread w/easy solution here:

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=34836

Thanks to all who pitched in!