legacycentral bbs

Hey everyone, I wasn't entirely sure how to word the title but I tried my best. I tried searching but found nothing.

Anyway, not to long ago, I installed a new transmission (auto), which seems to be working fine. However the problem I am having is tht when I am making tight turns at slow speeds (ex, making a u-turn) there is a grinding noise comming somewhere from the rear (I assume the rear diff). It also creates some resistance when I am making thse turns at low speed.

I used to have a GL, and it sounds exactly like when the GL was in 4x4 and I was making slow tight turns. Now I know that the transmission is the righ one, and the previous owner told me that it was having this problem (I bought it tranny-less).

So, would anyone happen to have any advice in regards to this problem.

Thanks very much
Ben

Install a fuse in the FWD fuse holder. This will disable the AWD system. Do some turns and see if you still have the problem.

More then likely you have an issue with the duty c solenoid or rear clutch packs.

When you say you installed a new trans, was it brand new, rebuilt, or a used one you installed ?

Sorry I didn't reply sooner.

I got the transmission from a really trustworth guy. It was rebuilt but low miles (known to be working on the previous car).

May it be an issue with the rear diff?

Once I go home, I will try and get a sound recording and post it up for better troubleshooting.

Thanks Legacy777

If the FWD fuse makes the noise go away... it's not the rear diff.

Ill double check that first thing this weekend.

So i checked it again this weekend. And I guess my previous description was off (I guess I didn't really look into it in detail), but I tried this with both the FWD fuse in and in AWD, and basically the problem seems to be that the front wheels are being pushed a bit.

This is when the wheel is at full lock (both right and left). Its a little hard to explain, but it feels like the front wheels cant keep up with a really tight turn and they just kinda get pushed a little every now and then. (Its not a constant pushing).

Its not really affecting regular driving, but is slightly annoying at low speed turns.

Sounds like your duty C solenoid could be stuck in the full lock position?

I'm not sure if this would make a difference, but I have been having a cell code that indicates that my Inhibitor switch is giving me problems. I assume it just needs an adjustment, but I haven't got around to fixing it, would that be related?

If its the duty C solenoid, should I just pick up one from a junkyard and swap them, I think I read that it can be done with the transmission still in the car.

Where should I go from here?

Maybe I didn't pick it up.....but it does sound like you're experiencing torque bind. What I didn't pick up is whether what you are experiencing changes with the FWD fuse in. With the fuse in, do you get a FWD light being illuminated on the dash?

As for the inhibitor switch. What code specifically are you getting? Chances are you may have other electrical issues, which might or might not be contributing to your torque bind problems.

The duty c solenoid can be replaced by removing the tail housing of the transmission. The trans can be left in the car, but you still have to dig into the transmission.

Check to make sure your tires are all the same brand, size, wear, and pressure. it may save you some headaches.

To Legacy777, I have tried with the FWD fuse in, and the same result (I do get the FWD on the dash).

And to arctic, I currently have a set of old, and pretty worn tires. The are all the same brand, size, and pressure.

But as far as the inhibitor switch, its giving me code 51 (I checked it a few times while at home, it comes on after a few minutes of driving). I have had a number of CEL codes, and I think this is the last one I have to fix (last owner wasn't the most caring, so I am trying to fix all the problems with the car first).

Yeah, I'd replaced the duty c solenoid from what you described.

With the inhibitor switch, you need to do some testing to see if you may have some bad wiring, or if it's the inhibitor switch.