Spencer's Legacy Turbo *New Pics Page 17*

[PhyrraM]

257 case - have cool
2008 STi Crank... the Nitride treated one (PN 12200AA400) - $300 at my cost sure yours is damaged? might not need it.
Eagles and Wisecos - $800 (sticking w/ my 9.1:1 CR too much fun) again, check whats damaged first. from your description you won't need pistons, and the rod should be an easy recon job
ACL Bearings - $150 of course
257 HG - $70
Misc Gaskets - $100 (have tons of new gaskets already)
ej25d heads - have How does it breath up high with the EJ25?
ej20r Cams - Picking up. trading for them check that your springs are good for the cams, should be OK though
Shims - $16-140 depending on what I need.
08 STi Oil Pump - $110 Why? No AVCS, so unless your bearings are clearanced wide open it's too much oil. That pump is meant for dual AVCS. No oil squirters, so a 10mm pump should do it, 11 for safety. The 12mm pump will likely just heat and aerate the oil
08 STi Water Pump - $140
Oil Cooler - Came on my 20g Clean, clean, clean if any bearings look bad. Metal likes to hide in the cooler.
V2 STi 20g Manifold Wrinkle Black - Have Your manifold looks nice, nice call on the paint
480cc Yellow Top Injectors - Have Are those big enough for the EJ25?
EVO III 16g - $400 (know a friend who has one) no comment, never researched that one. Using the WRX turbine housing I assume?
Link G3 ECU - $1000 (probably buying w/ from my renters insurance coverage of the stolen items from my car) Renters insurance covers that! cool!


shooting for a reliable 300atw I think you'll need at least 550cc injectors

300 WHP is my goal too, but I'll likely miss it because I'm using a standard early WRX TD05 to start.

Good luck getting her all back together! You only really mention the motor and trans, did they screw up anything asthetic or suspension?

[smh0101]

257 case - have cool
2008 STi Crank... the Nitride treated one (PN 12200AA400) - $300 at my cost sure yours is damaged? might not need it. I was thinking about that... if it is... I'll get the Nitrided one
Eagles and Wisecos - $800 (sticking w/ my 9.1:1 CR too much fun) again, check whats damaged first. from your description you won't need pistons, and the rod should be an easy recon job Hate the CPs with the fire of a 1000 suns. And might as well upgrade the rods while I'm here.
ACL Bearings - $150 of course
257 HG - $70
Misc Gaskets - $100 (have tons of new gaskets already)
ej25d heads - have How does it breath up high with the EJ25? Seems to do fan-frikkin tastic up top... even with the higher comp ratio
ej20r Cams - Picking up. trading for them check that your springs are good for the cams, should be OK though thinking about that... If I dont need a crank, I'll get a set of valve spings. However I believe I should actually be fine
Shims - $16-140 depending on what I need.
08 STi Oil Pump - $110 Why? No AVCS, so unless your bearings are clearanced wide open it's too much oil. That pump is meant for dual AVCS. No oil squirters, so a 10mm pump should do it, 11 for safety. The 12mm pump will likely just heat and aerate the oil Well from what I understand it wont be an issue... On this I figured I might as well... But since I didnt use a new oil pump on the last build I for sure will on this one. And remember... for some reason I spun a bearing with an 10mm pump... well I didnt actually... but still... the bearing spun.
08 STi Water Pump - $140
Oil Cooler - Came on my 20g Clean, clean, clean if any bearings look bad. Metal likes to hide in the cooler. Came on the good motor... wasnt on the spun bearing one... but will definitely clean it anyways
V2 STi 20g Manifold Wrinkle Black - Have Your manifold looks nice, nice call on the paint thank you thank you
480cc Yellow Top Injectors - Have Are those big enough for the EJ25? meh... not really for the turbo... but with the Link I can run them a little bit more than a piggy back... but I will need 650s eventually, but am going to just run semi low boost with the 480s to start with.
EVO III 16g - $400 (know a friend who has one) no comment, never researched that one. Using the WRX turbine housing I assume? Yep... WRX housing... either this or another 18g... not quite sure yet
Link G3 ECU - $1000 (probably buying w/ from my renters insurance coverage of the stolen items from my car) Renters insurance covers that! cool! Yep Yep! Since it wasnt installed in the car.


shooting for a reliable 300atw I think you'll need at least 550cc injectors I agree.

300 WHP is my goal too, but I'll likely miss it because I'm using a standard early WRX TD05 to start. Its a good place to start though.

Good luck getting her all back together! You only really mention the motor and trans, did they screw up anything asthetic or suspension?

The only thing outside of the powertrain that was damaged was my hood scoop... scratched the hell out of it somehow.

[douglas vincent]

My 550s were maxed out on English Racing and PRE dyno @ 300whp/300 torque.

[smh0101]

Picked up a:

Tranny
Rear LSD
and...

20r heads

Everything should be done by Sunday.

[ericem]

haha your fast I wish I worked as fast. I am a bit lazy, yet it hurts everyday driving my boosted awd car, with no boost and no awd ........... and a few auto gears not working.........

[macipusy]

Think about bigger injectors....maybe the 850cc

A good rule of thumb is divide the injector cc by two and estimate max hp.....so the 550cc would reliably produce 275whp.

It's always better to run a higher cc injector at a lower duty percentage....helps to prevent injector failure.

[smh0101]

Think about bigger injectors....maybe the 850cc

A good rule of thumb is divide the injector cc by two and estimate max hp.....so the 550cc would reliably produce 275whp.

It's always better to run a higher cc injector at a lower duty percentage....helps to prevent injector failure.

I know... I'm just trying to do something thats NOT on the list by WCSS and its going to cost a pretty penny...

So I'm cutting some corners... just not on internals, only on stuff that easily added later...

[smh0101]

haha your fast I wish I worked as fast. I am a bit lazy, yet it hurts everyday driving my boosted awd car, with no boost and no awd ........... and a few auto gears not working.........

lol

Intake Manifold is already off... of both engines... the top of the 20g is all apart for resealing and stuff... timing stuff is already off...

Dude... 5mt swap it.

[kimokalihi]

Do you do all this stuff yourself? Or does your dad help you?

I dunno how you do it so fast lol. Probably have a pretty well equiped shop. You saw my setup last night, pretty tight space, cold, no power tools, often not even the right hand tools and not only am I the only one who's ever worked on the car, I'm new to it all! haha.

[smh0101]

I do it all myself... Dad has just been helping me pick up parts because I dont have a car to...

And right now I'm using jackstands and electric impact guns and a craftsman socket set.

And its probably because I'm no longer just "new to it"

Havent been doing it a long time... but I tend to do things as quickly as possible.

[PhyrraM]

YOu picked up Kimo's heads? I thought they were "h" heads? Either "h" or "r" the ports should be larger than the "d" heads you had, and that should be a nice match for your 2.5 displacement.

What made you down on the CP pistons?

What did you decide on the oil pump? I noticed lots of feedback on Nasioc when you posted there.

Nice progress. It will be good to see it back on the road. I've been running a Legacy EJ20G for a while now, it's been a good motor so far. It will likely have lifter noise for a while, but an engine flush and time will quite it down. If it doesn't, I've got tons of pics on how to remove the HLA pills and replace them with regular SOHC ej22 ones.

[smh0101]

Yep... i took Kimos heads...

Idk... something I read made me think they were 20r heads... but idk, doenst matter much either way.

The ports did look bigger... I'm considering haveing them rebuilt and using them instead of my 25d heads...

The CPs are LOUD and use oil like you cant believe. Its truly ridiculous. I check the oil every single fill up and add a quart about ever 2-4 fill ups depending on how hard I was drive. No the turbo isnt using oil... there are no leaks... its getting by the pistons...

One thing that I was told by Dave before i got them... he said they would use oil because the oil control rings go below the wrist pin access hole and create a spot for oil to get sucked in. Apparently he was right.


I think I'm just going to get a new Legacy Turbo oil pump and use that. Should create a safety margin without being too big.

How torqueless is the 2L? Am I going to be crying since I am not using my 2.5 anymore?

[PhyrraM]

The CPs are LOUD and use oil like you cant believe. Its truly ridiculous. I check the oil every single fill up and add a quart about ever 2-4 fill ups depending on how hard I was drive. No the turbo isnt using oil... there are no leaks... its getting by the pistons...

Were they drop-in pistons or did you have the block bored to match the pistons? I have read numerous complaints about drop-in STI pistons being loud because they are build to the "A" Subaru bore size. When you drop them into a "B" or "C" OEM bore (+hone usually) they are very loose.

One thing that I was told by Dave before i got them... he said they would use oil because the oil control rings go below the wrist pin access hole and create a spot for oil to get sucked in. Apparently he was right.

Maybe, but why would CP use any different ring spacing than OEM? I know they don't change the pin height from OEM. My builder chose CP, albeit to his custom spec, so I guess I'll find out for myself soon enough.

I think I'm just going to get a new Legacy Turbo oil pump and use that. Should create a safety margin without being too big.

True. I wonder how "perfectionist" some of the Nasioc chatter is. I'm OK with "good enough" because there is alway another weak point to chase as soon as you fix the last one. Get's expensive fast and you have to stop somewhere. I'm thinking a shimmed 11mm pump for my build. I have the squirter and *slightly* opened bearing clearances, but nowhere near "race" clearances.

How torqueless is the 2L? Am I going to be crying since I am not using my 2.5 anymore?

Compared to your 2.5, I'm sure you'll feel it's hopeless. But, compared to my stock '02 EJ20 WRX it's pretty good. I would say a tad more low end, but a tad less top end to go with it. My EJ20G is a closed deck one from an automatic, so I *believe* it has milder cams than a 5speed version.

[smh0101]

Were they drop-in pistons or did you have the block bored to match the pistons? I have read numerous complaints about drop-in STI pistons being loud because they are build to the "A" Subaru bore size. When you drop them into a "B" or "C" OEM bore (+hone usually) they are very loose.

Yea they were drop ins... I figured that was the issue...

Maybe, but why would CP use any different ring spacing than OEM? I know they don't change the pin height from OEM. My builder chose CP, albeit to his custom spec, so I guess I'll find out for myself soon enough.

I dont know. I just know thats what I was told by someone who has built quite a few motors and had experience with CPs... Regardless... Something is using oil like a mofo and it pisses me off!

True. I wonder how "perfectionist" some of the Nasioc chatter is. I'm OK with "good enough" because there is alway another weak point to chase as soon as you fix the last one. Get's expensive fast and you have to stop somewhere. I'm thinking a shimmed 11mm pump for my build. I have the squirter and *slightly* opened bearing clearances, but nowhere near "race" clearances.

Hmmm... question... When someone uses ACL Race Bearings... Do those have huge clearences?

Compared to your 2.5, I'm sure you'll feel it's hopeless. But, compared to my stock '02 EJ20 WRX it's pretty good. I would say a tad more low end, but a tad less top end to go with it. My EJ20G is a closed deck one from an automatic, so I *believe* it has milder cams than a 5speed version.

Mine is also a closed deck one from an automatic... From what I understand the only difference between the GT and RS (auto = GT w/215hm... manual = RS w/ 225hp) is the RS got a vf8 with a *tad* more boost and the autos came with the vf10 with a *tad* less boost.

[PhyrraM]

Yea they were drop ins... I figured that was the issue...
... Something is using oil like a mofo and it pisses me off!

Yeah, oil usage sucks. I'm really hoping for as close to an OEM running engine as I can with a built motor.

Thought....

How many miles (and how much oil burned) did they put on the motor while it was gone? I wonder if the spun bearing is a result of low oil, cornering, and a momentarily uncovered pickup?

Hmmm... question... When someone uses ACL Race Bearings... Do those have huge clearences?

Good question. I always assumed it was a material difference, but it would make perfect sense if there was also more clearance engineered in. I'll as Greg, my builder, about it. He must know a thing or two. As a note...he wouldn't set any clearances until I told him my power goals. ~300HP uses stock clearances, ~500HP uses race clearances. We settled somewhere in the middle to keep it quiet and as long-lasting as possible.

Mine is also a closed deck one from an automatic... From what I understand the only difference between the GT and RS (auto = GT w/215hm... manual = RS w/ 225hp) is the RS got a vf8 with a *tad* more boost and the autos came with the vf10 with a *tad* less boost.

I always assumed it was just the turbo and boost level too, but the back of head seems to remember a post (I wanna say by Matt or Marnix) saying the Legacies had cam changes, while the later WRX EJ20Gs did not. Bonus points for automatic equipped cars not having worn thrust bearings.

[smh0101]

Speedo quit working during our cold spell... havent fixed it yet... So idk how many mile they put on it. But it was a full tank when they took it (only 3 miles on the tank) and when I got it back there was NOTHING left in the tank.

[smh0101]

Engine out. Not torn apart yet.

Other engine and tranny to go in tomorrow. Pretty much have the engine ready to drop in.

[smh0101]

Engine and tranny in... everything *should* be done and working...

But it wont start... Havent checked fuel and spark yet...

[smh0101]

Only CEL Code is number 21 for a Water Temp Sensor...

This makes no sense...

[555BCTurbo]

Injector plugs in right spot?

[smh0101]

Should be... using the Manifold off my 2.5...

But I was thinking it has to be that or my spark plug wires.

[ericem]

No, start and water temp sensor code, but it should default hmm.

[smh0101]

THIS IS PISSING ME OFF

Checked the injector wires (swapped them to make sure) and they were in the right spot...

[PhyrraM]

If your using the intake manifold from before, I would check the cam and crank sensors.

Did you swap them from your old block or try and use the ones from the new motor?

Did you miss the 3rd engine connector with all the grounds?

[smh0101]

Checked all the engine connectors... they're all good...

The crank and cam sensors are from the old motor.