legacycentral bbs

Yes that spot is occupied. Darn, guess I'll remove the six speed! I'm thinkng that the cubby hole to the left of the steering column might be a place. Maybe the leveler controller could fit sideways into that spot.

what's the damange on the parts? $3000 or so? install another $1000 or so?

lol Who on this site pays to install parts?

haha....so true. but since i am not as mechanically inclined as someone else, i don't think i would tackle on this project.

so what's estimated cost for parts?

If you've played with Legos you could do it. No offense intended but do you think mechanics are really that smart?

^ Its all about balls. Find a manual, read it, and dive in.




Anyways, if you took your time sourcing the parts and found good deals on everything, you could do it for under $3k in parts. An STi clutch should be good for a hair over 300 lb-ft to the wheels, so that's a place to start if you are pinching pennies. 3.90 rear diffs abound, if you can put up with an open one.



Or you can buy a new '07 6mt for around $3900, spend $1k on a clutch, yadda yadda, and have it cost a whole lot more.

I've got a stock 6 speed clutch/flywheel in decent used shape if anyone needed. Shipping would be a bitch though if you wanted the flywheel.

It looks like I could put the rear diff I removed(LSD 3.90) into my daughters '94 Legacy with an automatic transmission.

The 94 auto is 3.9 final drive? I didnt know that!

According to the sticky in drivetrain that Legacy777 posted, it is. I'll look at the '94 diff to see if there is any thing on there that will identify it.

I had one in the shop today, as long as it's an auto or a turbo, it's got a 3.90. The manual N/A cars got the 4.11

Arctic Assassian wrote:I had one in the shop today, as long as it's an auto or a turbo, it's got a 3.90. The manual N/A cars got the 4.11

Not entirely correct. The 90-91 non-turbo auto's are 4.111.

Had the Exedy Sti stage one organic clutch 15803, and Exedy Lightweight flywheel(14lbs.), installed in June with the STi 6 speed. Now it is burnt. You have to be really carefull starting out in first gear not to ride the clutch at all or it will emit that lovely burnt smell. Not happy with the sound that the lightweight flywheel generates either.

So, am thinking about having them replaced with the ACT clutch, SB4-HDSS, and using a stock STi flywheel.

How about some thoughtful feedback. Thanks.

That's the ACT clutch I was looking at until I ended up getting a nice deal on a Hyper Single.

Yeah I'm not sure about the LW flywheels. I like the fact they rev more quickly, but even with the 5spd it makes driving it much more of a bear, and I do find if I want to be remotely smooth, especially with the crap 02 WRX clutch I have in there, I have to slip the clutch, especially when it's cold.

I expect to have to either replace the clutch and/or possibly the transmission when I finally get the link in.

My Exedy has a 9lb flywheel, and the pressure plate itself is lighter than a stamped steel unit. I'm still on the fence about whether I like it or not. The 6 puck cerametallic with the light flywheel makes it much more of a bear to drive. I've gotten used to it though, and I only kill it every few days now. Since I haven't driven it in a hair over a month, I'd probably be back at noob status.


One thing I do really like about my clutch is that the pedal is lighter than the stock 6mt clutch. Personally, I like a light feeling clutch, but others like a heavy clutch. I do like the engagement of the 6 puck though. It feels very solid, and it laughs at me if I launch at 5k. My axles probably aren't laughing though....

Yeah I don't like a stiff clutch pedal. So that'd be something I might have to look into if I did do a 6MT swap.

Just had a ACT clutch, SB4-HDSS, and a stock Subaru STi flywheel installed(19lbs.) Pacific Import Auto(PIA) in Parkland, Washington did the install, and did a fine job. The car is so much easier to drive and the gear rattle noise on decel is gone. With only 6k mi. on the old parts, Exedy stage one clutch and lightweight flywheel(14 lbs.), they were burnt. Kind of like having a new trans system now, I am very happy with it.

93forestpearl wrote:You probably would have noticed before you got out of the driveway.

You most definately would have. I replaced a 90 legacy 4EAT tranny from the junkyard and I forgot to check the gear ratio because it was out of a 94 and the guy at the junkyard told me"They're all the same ratio 90-94". Dumbass. That was the last time I listen to those guys.

I put the tranny in and took the car for a drive and immediately there was a terrible grinding noise and you could feel the whole car shutter as I drove it down the street. I knew right off the bat that the junkard guy was full of shit. One of the cars was a 3.90 and the other was 4.111. I don't remember which was which but that car did not like that at all. After I put it the diff from the same car the tranny came out of it ran great. Still runs great except now I'm having issues with the starter not working. But for 2 years or so it ran great.

ciper wrote:lol Who on this site pays to install parts?

Have never paid anyone to install something on anything before. One time I had a problem with my engine in my toyota pickup and my parents paid a shop to check it out. They charged us $180 just to look at it and they said they traced the wiring harness back to the ECU and found a bent pin that they fixed and told us the problem was gone.

I drove it home all happy until I got a few blocks down the road and it went into closed loop and the problem was back again. They lied to us and took our money and I'll never pay someone to work on my car again. Until I'm too old to do it myself.

Several months later my clutch went out and I pulled the tranny to replace it and found a coolant leak on the back of the block and I tried tightening a bolt to stop the leak and it snapped off without hardly turning it at all. So I ended up pulling the motor to drill it out and helicoil it and while the motor was out I found the wiring harness was melted on the exhaust recirculation pipe by the intake! Those assholes did NOT trace the wiring harness and made some bullshit story about bent ECU pins and took my parents money! The ECU had never even been disconnected before we took it to the shop so how could they be bent?

I hate the automotive industry and don't trust any of them. Not just because of this either. They rip everyone off and I've heard several other stories of them screwing people over like this(different shops).

GRRRR!

/rant.

Man, you put a 6 speed it!

Just thought I'd bump up this thread, good info. I'm really thinking about the STI 6 speed swap for my SS. Right now it's an auto and it needs a new transmission either way. I know the STI swap is more complicated but I would need to get all the parts that make it more complicated anyway being that I am coming over from an auto. Plus I already have the right drive shaft and speedometer gear. If I could get an 04-05 6 speed I wouldn't even have to touch the rear diff although it would be nice to get an R180 so my old R160 doesn't explode. Does the R180 have a VLSD or is it helical? This swap sounds perfect. I mean it would be $1,000-2,000 more than a regular 5MT but I think that's a faily good price considering the extra strength and reliability of the 6MT.

The R180 is a clutch type diff. To make it work you need to make some hybrid axles or use STi rear knuckles and brakes. Also, you need to change the companion flange on the diff's pinion.

I'm surprised you still watch this topic after like 2 years. How is your tranny holding up?

Is the R180 rear diff even worth it? It sounds like it would be a lot of work considering I already have the 3.9 fd ratio VLSD and the automatic driveshaft. I could leave my whole drivetrain from the tailshaft back stock which would be nice. I question the integrity of my stock R160 with 160,000 miles on it though.

Didn't you say you were waiting for yours to blow up before you swapped in an R180. Did it blow up?

I just look at the new posts each day


I'm installing an R180 because the VLSD I found for cheap and slapped in there was pretty much toast. With the back of the car off the ground, I could spin one tire 6-8 times before the other tire even moved. Plus the R180 is rebuildable, and the ramp angle can be changed for quicker lockup if desired. It's not coming cheap though. Between the diff and the STi axles to make this all work I'll have about $700 in it. I could have sprung for a Cusco diff or something like that, but pennies are pennies. I need to buy a bunch of paint for the new car, and Forest Pearl does not cover well.


If your VLSD is still working fine I'd stick with it for now. You can change that later if you need/want to. I ran for a year with an open 3.90 and the 6mt.

Personally, I have not heard of anyone breaking the ring gear or pinion in an R160, just spider gears. And you need to be making some serious power at that rate.

As far as my tranny goes, I haven't broken it. I worry about my axles more than anything, but my current tires (crappy Fusion HRi's ) spin if I'm trying to really get off the line. I don't really drag race the car, so I'm not too worried about it.

It had a rough 8k miles on it when I got it, and now it doesn't like a hard 1-2 shift when hot. Next winter I'll be going through it and replacing the syncros with the newer design from '06. I think the hub-engagement design also changed, but I'm not sure.