legacycentral bbs

Well, now I have another boat anchor....

$77



I still have to pick it up.

So the base plan is just a rebuild to start with.

Pistons = $750 ish for forged OR
stock EJ22t pistons = free
bearings = $150ish
Block bored to pistons = $120
turn crank if needed = $120
Rebuild heads = $300ish\
Head gaskets = $?
Other gaskets = $50

Total $900-$1700

At this point the block would be ready for actual intake and exhaust buidling. The motor is missing the intake manifold, but I don't see that as an issue. I would seriously investigate using the Megasquirt for this motor.

And since I am not/dont have the cash to invest in cams and extensive headwork, I would have to be happy with the 500 whp this motor should be capable of......

But..... I don't even have it yet.

Nice!

Thats gonna be SvXY!

That will be awesome. A H6 swap was done on a STi and at about 21psi makes over 600hp and much more torque early in the powerband was on nasoic.

Where is the budget entry for the low boost turbo?

I have a source for one of these that's been sitting around for a long time, but I really think that finding and EZ30 would be a better option for me.

I forsee an easy $3k or more just to get this up and running, parts alone. Which is outragous for us cheapskates, but comparitively cheap for a reliable 400-500 whp monster.

.... and the legend of the man named Doug continues....


Keep us posted on this, I know it's something I've always dreamed about and many others.

David (Rallitek) was doing this for his legacy, then he realized it would be a shitload of cash, so he dumped it.

It would be kick ass to see one of these done!

Can you immagine and ej44h or an ej507?

That'd be a 4.4L Twin Turbo Flat 8 or a 5.0L STi flat 8 turbo motor.

Hells yeah!

That would be insanity!

Sounds like are trying to follow in MR. Rigoli's footsteps. That motor is pretty badass.


I know its a load of cash, but a standalone may be a good investment for you. A good one could accommodate all the changes you make over time.

"IF" I try to make this work (cause at this point, I can sell the damn motor for scrap and still make money), I will heavily investigate MegaSquirt.

Doug, you've been very successful with the standalones so far. Why not get a junkyard SVX harness and try the standalone route?

I see the transmission being more expensive then the actual engine build. 500 HP in the SVX is the same as 350ish in a 2.2. Pistons, cams and port work should do it. Rods for the safety factor.

Actually, I have never had a standalone. Therefore my incredible success in killing pistons. I have been using the PP6 piggyback.

No need for a SVX wiring harness, I have enough harnesses lying around to easily put together the parts for a standalone.


Tranny I have "should" be good for the power if not driven like an asshat.

I will be using STI rods. Cheap and good for 500 whp in the 6 cylinder, cause they are good for 100 whp apiece generally.

opps, I meant piggyback in the above post.

Either way, agree the Megasquirt is something I would like tomplay around with someday also. The only disasvantage I can see with it it that it is batch fired. And that's pretty minor if you never need to smog it.

What transmission are you running.

Believe it or not, I've actually contemplated an EG33 swap into my Forester. Dropping the turbo idea and running with a Whipple SC.

It ended up boiling down to lack of time and the difficulty of locating a full and unmolested OBD2 SVX to be able to use for a swap candidate. Maintaining OBD2 is a requirement because it would still have to be emissions "legal"

I would have simply wired in the stock SVX ECU because it SHOULD have been able to control everything the Forester ECU controls (in terms of idle control, and all accessories that require ECU inputs).

Then, I would have used a UTEC Delta in 6-cyl mode and set it up to recognize the CAS of the EG33. Run her speed-density and build fuel tables from existing Turbo/SC 350Z/G35 maps.

Then, it would have been a matter of putting it together how I wanted. I would have likely mirrored a G35 exhaust and use G35 midpipe resonators with some kind of popular G35 Sedan muffler. I just really like that sound.

I also looked into a few additional power options. Eagle rods and wiseco's would have been a given due to the ridiculously cheap cost I can get them for. The question would have come from head-work and headers. Headers would either be stock or custom, a lot of work. Heads would probably get some minor fortification, but I'd be concerned with the cam-gears (the EG33 has a gear interface to time the cams).

I also breifly entertained the idea of having an 89mm crank built and punch out the block for a set of 100mm Darton sleeves. That would net some 4.2 liters of displacement and a CR in the neighborhood of 9.5:1. Run a whipple at a meager 7 or 8psi and your looking at 500whp without really breaking a sweat. The motor alone wouldn't have really cost that much, though admittedly more than I would have been willing to spend.

Still, double digits of boost with a 4.2L 6-cylinder should see more horsepower than one could reasonably imagine.

I've thought about this a little... If I keep the Forester to the point that it's no longer worth selling, I may end up doing something like this or just doing a full STi swap into it.

Dream big Doug. I've got FSM's of the SVX motor if it would help you out (well, FSM's of the SVX as a whole). I can get you wiring diagrams and everything, just let me know. e-mail is the ticket and I can usually get right back to you. BAC5point2 (at) gmail (dot) com

I've thought about this as well. I just worry about packaging. I will not remove the bumper beam so that makes things interesting, like my current FMIC setup.


I love the sound of a flat 6, and they are so smooth compared to a four since the power strokes overlap. There is truth to the statement that there is no replacement for displacement.


I like what Perrin and PDX have done with the EZ30R. I'd like to play with the new 3.6L motor since they redesigned the cooling system and some other things. It will probably be a while before one can be had for a decent price though.



Maybe I'll just chill and wait untill I can sent my borked 22T block out for sleeves and oversized studs. 2.65 liters is plenty to spool a 4088R or 4094R in a reasonable time if they are twin scroll.

It'll fit if you push the AC condenser in front of the vertical radiator support, drop the radiator down and under the support, and run slim fans. It works, I measured. At least in the Forester it would work. You just have to do what you did for the lower radiator support.

Plumbing for an intercooler, however, would be tight. No real spot for a core unless you ditch the bumper beam. AWIC would be your only legitimate option. I would have simply integrated one of whipples sandwich coolers to work for my needs. The stack height was an issue, and the Forester DOES have a bit more room under the hood than the Legacy. You'd probably need to space up the back of the hood with washers (which, admittedly, looks awesome), or cut a hole and weld a bulge into it. That would also look cool. If my elementary measurements were accurate, the Whipple Sandwich cooler for a Cobra would have JUST cleared the hood.

The other downside to SC is the loss of AC. Kind of a bummer and I'd have had to try to find a suitable replacement location. The alternator needs to have a mount fabricated so it can reside in place of the AC compressor.

You'd also have to have made a custom crank pulley. Some time with the numbers and auto-CAD and you could probably have something made up. To make 12psi of boost, you'd probably want a 8 or 10 rib belt. Again, snout protrusion wasn't an issue with the Forester, but it probably would be with the sloping hood of the Legacy.

I vote AWIC. My long time plan was to find a demo battery and use it as a water tank. Not only would it fit perfectly but unless you looked closely it would look stock. Even with a small set of front heat exchangers it should have enough of a buffer for anything you could throw at it besides long track sessions.

Not that it would help much but I still have about 15 legacy AWIC.

Hey, that's a good one Ciper! You could have fittings on the bottom and run your lines out through the battery spacer tray. Use the "terminals" as the terminals to power the pump that would reside inside. It would be flawless!

Or, if this were a drag-oriented car, yank the spare tire out and build a fiberglass tub. Then just pump water from there. It would be easy to access so you could dump dry-ice in it, and there would be a significant amount of thermal mass. As a bonus, using stainless steel lines would help cool the water as you pump it to and fro. You could mount one of the heat exchangers behind the rear differential too even, or just under the bumper cover.

A local shop is building an STi with an Axis shortblock and a 4094R. They decided to go air to water because of packaging. Hostestly, it makes things much simpler that running piping. Some -12 or whatever sized lines are much less of a hassle to deal with than finding room for 2.5-3" piping. One of the guys there is an amazing welder so that helps.

Haha, that's badass. It would be really awesome to use a 28RS or something with that setup. Now THAT would be fun! A twin-scroll 28RS with a top-mount and a high compression 2.5L (10:1). That would be an autoX monster.

The few 4088 and 4094 cars we've put together use FMIC's. While an AWIC would be nice, having a fluid reservoir, heat exchanger, and pump capable of handling 600 whp is heavy, expensive, and intrusive. Unlike most, however, a lot of the 30/35/40/42 cars we build are still driven daily or mostly daily and having a water tank where the passenger used to sit isn't an option. Neither is losing the rear seat. We do have some crazies out here though. One guy has the tag "11SECDD" on his STi limited.

I can't remember exactly what Ronnie has planned for the tank and pump. Possibly put the battery in the trunk and use that space. They are using a good sized core for the heat exchanger in front, and it should be efficient enough to not have to keep a large reservoir tank.

Pulling the bumper beam will barely affect safety - bumpers aren't intended for crash mitigation, but to reduce damage to a car in 5 mph impacts. You can read about the regulations with a quick web search, if you want. Of course, there is some incidental safety from the beam, but the impacts that can hurt you are meant to be absorbed by the crumple zones and mitigated by seat belts and air bags.

The bumper beam will keep the frame rails aligned if you do crash, and its not a square impact. The core supports are not very beefy. The lower one is only two thin layers of sheet metal.


I like the bumper beam for the pure fact that a not so major impact could cause major damage to your motor and other stuff without it. Sure, it may not have a whole lot to do with a serious head on impact, but in a small one it could save your car from a fire or something of the sort. If I didn't have one when I smoked that deer at 100, my car would have definitely been toast.

DV - The 3.3l motor looks like FUN, you should be able to make some BIG HP with it !!!

I'm going to get one of these the next time one pops up @ my local "u-pull-it" as it should be cheap over there.
I'd like to put it in a OBDI Impreza coupe or 4 door - like the Rs25 guys did.

My buddy has a GT35R on a 3.2l M3 Motor & it made 430WHP @ fairly low boost levels.

The 35R works best at low-boost levels on bigger motors. That turbo is really happy to make like 10psi on something in the 4.0 to 5.0L range.