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Top Hat Bolt Replacement?
Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 8:27 pm
by Dynamic Entry
I am one of the people that has caused jamal stress lately in repeating himself.... but at least i took his advice
So i got GC8 spec footwork to keep the geometry the same. It came from japan and is quite tidy except
anyone have experience replacing a bolt here? I am heading to The Bolt Supply House tomorrow to see what they say. It's got little splines on the inside of the hole....
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 9:45 am
by ciper
If you can get a matching diameter bolt its not extremely important for it to be pressed in like the old one. The "ring" around the middle and gravity does most of the work hold the parts together.
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 1:41 pm
by Hocrest
But if it's not pressed in, you'll have a hell of a time keeping it from spinning when you tighten the nut.
But if you get a couple of weld spots to hold the bolt, you'll be golden.
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 8:18 pm
by ciper
Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 12:59 am
by Threshld1
Why dont you press a stud out of your/an old tophat and press it into this one?
Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 11:37 am
by Dynamic Entry
ciper wrote:
mmmmmm lockkkkkk washersssss
the internal star one looks aggressive, will look for one tomorrow
I bought a grade 8 5/16ths bolt today with a split washer. figuring maybe I can get a wrench on the bottom of the bolt while tightening down the nut....
we'll see if I have the gumption to try this tomorrow, but it might rain all day......
i have no welder/access to one right now.
i don't think I can push the stud in/out because of the wide head on one end and the threads on the other. to be honest I am quite mystified as to how these are assembled.....
Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 7:45 pm
by ciper
Well if you had a stud on its own you could use the new nut to "pull" the stud into its new home.
I bet you could put two nuts tightened against each other on an old stud then use a hammer to bang it out.
Posted: Fri May 23, 2008 6:57 am
by Dynamic Entry
I will try this. after looking again i noticed that the splines are a tiny bit wider than the threads so the stud should push out
we'll see
Posted: Fri May 23, 2008 6:18 pm
by Threshld1
Yup, they are just a knurled press fit bolt. Same as how your lug bolts are attached. Get a BFH and go at it!
Posted: Fri May 23, 2008 10:43 pm
by n2x4
Be careful when you torque those down. They aren't the toughest things - I tightened one clean off once.
Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 6:03 am
by Dynamic Entry
ha ha ha, it took me a second to process BFH. I had huge flashbacks of running around shooting big green balls of death at pixelated zombies
but I will find a hammer
about the torqueing, I will see if my haynes says anything about it and/or be attentive about it. thanks!
Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 6:11 am
by ciper
BFG9000 ftw!
Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 6:20 am
by Dynamic Entry
No Clipping FTMFW!
Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 6:26 am
by ciper
LOL idspispopd
torque table
Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 6:55 am
by kleinkid
The Haynes manual will give you a torque value for the nuts on those studs. Just for general info here is chart for torque values for metric size fasteners.
http://www.tpub.com/content/filters/TM- ... 3P_105.htm
Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 7:25 am
by ciper
Nice link Kleinkid but where are the 14mm bolts? The chart seems to confirm my usual torque of 15ft lbs.
Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 10:32 pm
by kleinkid
Torque values are always determined by thread dia. and /or material. Not by the size of wrench used.
Posted: Sun May 25, 2008 7:13 pm
by Dynamic Entry
eh?
well, to bring this thread back on track: hamering a stud out of a top hat is the easiest thing Evar. And pulling it into a new one is lso easy with vice grips.
My STi suspension is in now and I have 11 extra top hat studs too.
