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Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 4:43 am
by yazmo
hello here my problem my legacy 94 turbo as a very high gas consumtion like full tank i am doing 280 km
so i wonderibng what could do this
bad ignition timming?
some sensor o2 and coolant temp
what else
dunno if i am capable to read the ecu code
anyone know what are my option:?
yaz109@hotmail.com
legacy 1994 turbo awd abs
Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 4:48 am
by yazmo
btw my car as 149000km and i just change galiper rotor and pads with all tie-rod on the front with new summer tire.
i have brough a new resonator with the restriction plug
brand new iridium ngk spark plug new air filter and fuel filter
oil is change and i still get high mileage
so i realy not sure what could cause this
anyone can give me some info pls
Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 1:31 pm
by Legacy777
Check the ECU for codes. Doing anything else at this point and time is a waste of your time and money.
Here's info on my site as well on how to check the codes
www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html
Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 4:53 pm
by yazmo
wow very well explain thx you
i have a look and ill post the result here thx you btw it's wrote on the haynes manual that rpm on AT is around 600 to 800 rpm when i try to adjust mine at this rate, the rpm while i drive stick even when i release the accelerator.
and its take a while to go down.
is this a sensor cause?
thx in advance
very nice web page ill read all of it thx.
another thing i have remove the to e/g valve the T one from the charcoal canister to the auxiliary purge valve the problem his i dint look which way the arrow on that valve was going to engine or by the side of the canister?
maybe i turn it the wrong way anyone know

Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 5:57 pm
by yazmo
btw legacy777 do you have those web page
in your drive cuz i would like to have them just in case for some reason they can't be found.
btw my email is
yaz109@hotmail.com
thx mickael
Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 6:56 pm
by SubaruNation
Legacy777 wrote:Check the ECU for codes. Doing anything else at this point and time is a waste of your time and money.
Here's info on my site as well on how to check the codes
www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html
Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 7:12 pm
by yazmo
you got a digital dis-2 how its work exactly i found out that you dont have a turbo model is this could fit?
Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 8:08 pm
by Legacy777
yazmo wrote:wow very well explain thx you
i have a look and ill post the result here thx you btw it's wrote on the haynes manual that rpm on AT is around 600 to 800 rpm when i try to adjust mine at this rate, the rpm while i drive stick even when i release the accelerator.
and its take a while to go down.
is this a sensor cause?
thx in advance
You can't adjust the idle, it's set by the ECU. It's possible a senser may be causing your problems, however, like I said, check the codes, there's no reason to speculate if you can find out for sure.
very nice web page ill read all of it thx.
another thing i have remove the to e/g valve the T one from the charcoal canister to the auxiliary purge valve the problem his i dint look which way the arrow on that valve was going to engine or by the side of the canister?
maybe i turn it the wrong way anyone know
The arrow on the aux purge valve points towards the intake manifold/resonator box (away from charcoal canister)
Did you get that car from Houston? From looking at the photos, I'm pretty sure that's my buddy Jim's old 94 SS.
Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 8:10 pm
by Legacy777
yazmo wrote:btw legacy777 do you have those web page
in your drive cuz i would like to have them just in case for some reason they can't be found.
btw my email is
yaz109@hotmail.com
thx mickael
What web page are you talking about, the ones on my site? If so, you don't have to worry about them going away. My site is severely out-dated, and needs to be updated.
Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 8:11 pm
by Legacy777
yazmo wrote:you got a digital dis-2 how its work exactly i found out that you dont have a turbo model is this could fit?
Yes I have a DIS-2. It just boost the ignition signal going to the coil pack. It doesn't matter whether you have a turbo or not.
However, I do have a turbo now
www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t
Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 8:13 pm
by ciper
yazmo : Learn to internets, threadjacking is not cool especially in the middle of a conversation.
Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 5:00 am
by yazmo
sorry guy im new to forum
ill have a look on the ecu nxt thrusday i am doing presently like 260km for 45 liter of fuel it's like 18 liter for 100 km.
its abnormal ill go crazy soon just for going to work its cost me like around 70$ i try to play with the idle speed to corect this but for some reason if i set it a little to high the rpm needle stuck at the same speed so i had to set it back to where it was around 400 rpm on park automatic, the manual say its should be around 600 to 800 is this truth?
wow btw your web site for the teardown is so great i wish you live close to me lol
if i have to change some of the fuel injection part what are you recommend me?
thx in advance
what is tbhe part number of the fuel pump
http://www.alamomotorsports.com/walbro/ ... subaru.htm
would be great if you were saying what part you buy and where
Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:46 pm
by Legacy777
Like I said before you can't adjust the idle. It's controlled automatically by the ECU. Anything you do like adjusting the idle set screw, adjust the IAC valve will cause you problems because they are calibrated, and the ECU knows what that calibration is. So when you do find out what the problem really is, you may have problems.
You need to fix the problem, not the symptom.
What do you mean change some of the fuel injection?
I've been meaning to do a complete write-up on the engine swap, but haven't gotten around to it.
You need the walbro GSS341 with adapter kit 400-791
Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:29 pm
by yazmo
ok so what now i have play with the the screw already ,so what are the thing i have to do to readjuste the ecu ect...
i am completly lost on this.
like i said i will try to read ecu tomorrow
dunno if ill make it but if not what do i tell to the mechanic shop to what to do?
Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 1:37 am
by Legacy777
Not really sure how to get the throttle body back to "stock". Just try your best.
Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 3:26 am
by ciper
From memory there are three parts at play when it comes to the idle. The screw on top, the electronic part of the IAC and the heat spring.
From my guess the best way to adjust it would be to warm the car up until the fans come on, turn it off, remove the top of the IAC, put the IAC in the center, start the car and adjust the throttle body screw until its idling at 750. Then reattach the electronic portion and things should work themselves out.
My reasoning is that this allows the IAC the most amount of adjustment in either direction and still gets you a high cold idle. Thoughts?
Im half ready to delete this because Yazmo is being a butt.
Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 5:04 am
by yazmo
[quote="ciper"]From memory there are three parts at play when it comes to the idle. The screw on top, the electronic part of the IAC and the heat spring.
From my guess the best way to adjust it would be to warm the car up until the fans come on, turn it off, remove the top of the IAC, put the IAC in the center, start the car and adjust the throttle body screw until its idling at 750. Then reattach the electronic portion and things should work themselves out.
My reasoning is that this allows the IAC the most amount of adjustment in either direction and still gets you a high cold idle. Thoughts?
---------------------------------------------
im just newand this is my first car that all, btw what is IAC.
i appreciate all the effort you are making, im just trying my best to find out what are causing this very high fuel consomtion.
dont get mad everyone have there competence
car are just not mine.
btw im mostly french canadian so i have hard time with english be easy
Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 8:32 am
by ciper
The IAC is the valve on the passenger side of the throttle body. Look at the intake, see under the accordion part where the big tube attaches? Follow that big tube and you will find the IAC. On top of it is an electro magnet held by two screws.
I'm only annoyed because you stole someone elses post instead of creating your own separate discussion.
Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 5:42 pm
by yazmo
first i dint stole it was a mistake and its was about bad fuel consomtion so i tough this would help.
cuz i first i though it was the fautly canister.
i talk with the guy from netronics here what he said
Hi Yazmo We have tuned the older legacys before without too good outcome. We spentmany hours tuning the car it did get better but there is still some more room for improvement. Currently we have stopped tuning these cars for now until we can figure something out with them. Andy Neetronics 416-848-0653
i wonder if they stop tunning this car how they will figure out something lol
i wont steal anyone else topic i am sorry abut this
Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 6:20 pm
by Legacy777
You're trying to fix a symptom, and not the problem....and that's just not going to work.
You MUST fix the problem that is causing the high idle. idle set screws and IAC valves don't go out of calibration all of a sudden. You need to do some diagnostic testing/troubleshooting to figure out what is the problem. If you don't have the ability to do that, you need to take your car to someone that can.