legacycentral bbs

i want a DP b/c wowee i need one....

SO!

here's what i found..
post whatcha think, even if they suck b/c i cant buy a $400 one.

or if they are a good deal or whatevs..

im just scopin' teh situation right now.



#2

#3
#3


#4 looks like this im guessing..

how about a helix one? or a titek one

they're a bit spendy

i think i might wait and do this along with a 5mt in a couple of months if these Dps are that bad.

I had one of those HKS ones on my SS and it worked fine...really excellent quality actually

thanks nick, do you know if it would match up to the stock 06 sti exhaust?

i mean, i could get an extention if so but then it would cost more.

i would love to install it in my driveway

SubaruNation wrote:thanks nick, do you know if it would match up to the stock 06 sti exhaust?

i mean, i could get an extention if so but then it would cost more.

i would love to install it in my driveway

The STi exhaust has a length difference...but the flanges *should* be a close match...

cools, what about the 02 sensor (bung), it looks like it's in the wrong spot.

just kidding.. it's really hard to see the bung on it

Just buy one of the $100 EZR or ERZ DP's on ebay. They're nice bellmouth ones. There used to be some with bungs towards the top of the pipe. I've got one on my car and it's fine. Gaskets were included too.

n2x4 wrote:Just buy one of the $100 EZR or ERZ DP's on ebay. They're nice bellmouth ones. There used to be some with bungs towards the top of the pipe. I've got one on my car and it's fine. Gaskets were included too.

edit: couldn't find any called that

something like this: ? here n2x4?

i have the number 2 downpipe on you list and just put it on today then broke my turbo coolant resevior just after i installed the downpipe and could not drive it but anyway the O2 bung is at the bottom instead of the top and touches the tranny so it will have to be removed to swap tranny or tranny filter and O2 sensor wires have the be spliced and extended!!!! but over all it is badass and sounds really f-ing nice

you think it's possible to drill a hole into the DP in the right spot for the 02 sensor?

yes?

SubaruNation wrote:you think it's possible to drill a hole into the DP in the right spot for the 02 sensor?

yes?

Yeah...I always just drilled and welded in my own O2 bung...

I picked up a nice Bosal Divorced one for cheap ( I think $200 ) I just had the rest of the exhaust custom fit to it.

The O2 was in the right place.

SubaruNation wrote:something like this: ? here n2x4?

I guess ERZ isn't around anymore, hmm. Here's one with the bung up at the top and it's around $100 bucks:

here

When I bought my DP I had a bung welded in. I ordered a 02 sensor bung from summitracing.com and had a friend weld it in.

I have the EZR DP on my SS.

I had the o2 sensor bung welded in the same location as the factory DP.
I ported the Bellmouth - 3" pipe joint section (some 3" pipe comes out into the bellmouth area) & put a plug in the lower o2 sensor bung.

It is longer than the OEM DP so the stock SS exhaust will have to be shortened if used with a WRX DP.

I had a few 3"Mandrel bends, 3" tubing, 3" flanges & a 3" inlet/Outlet muffler ready to fab a exhaust up so I did everything @ the same time.

thanks for your help everybody

I've got a Bosal (divorced) shorty DP for sale if you want it. $220 with shipping and paypal included.

93Leg-c wrote:I've got a Bosal (divorced) shorty DP for sale if you want it. $220 with shipping and paypal included.

divide that by two then let me know

wat i did was just splice and sauter the o2 sensor with some extra wire to make it longer it works just fine but the wire is such low voltage u have make sure u dont half-ass it or it may not work.
1st i went with just splicing and electrical tape but it didnt work to well so sauter would probaly be the best way to go!!!

I like the Titek catted Im using. They are bellmouth, catted or non-catted, they have O2 bungs..one in the top turbo Leg location and one in the back for WRX.

Picked one out yet? If not, personally I'd stay away from the HKS(no offense 555BCTurbo). You can kind of see it in the pic you posted above; the HKS DP has no place for waste gate gasses to go if your running an internally gated turbo set up which 'most' people on here are (unless they have recently changed their design). This causes the flow exiting your waste gate to be injected into your main exhaust flow at a 90 degree angle, creating turbulence. This can 'arguably' decrease exhuast fow and hence performance as well. FWIW-I had a stromung divorced housing DP on my STi and it worked great, but didn't have as good of quality as the the Perrin DP I later switched to.

Dr. Gonzo wrote:Picked one out yet? If not, personally I'd stay away from the HKS(no offense 555BCTurbo). You can kind of see it in the pic you posted above; the HKS DP has no place for waste gate gasses to go if your running an internally gated turbo set up which 'most' people on here are (unless they have recently changed their design). This causes the flow exiting your waste gate to be injected into your main exhaust flow at a 90 degree angle, creating turbulence. This can 'arguably' decrease exhuast fow and hence performance as well. FWIW-I had a stromung divorced housing DP on my STi and it worked great, but didn't have as good of quality as the the Perrin DP I later switched to.

This is a non-issue for anyone not pushing 400+ crank horsepower.

The fact is that the most you stand to lose is one or two horsepower over a bellmouth setup.
exhaust gasses will be turbulent, period; after the turbocharger it really doesn't matter; and one must consider the internal pressure in the headers pre-turbo: much more significant pressure in those tubes than what exists in the rest of the exhaust system.

if you're pushing more than 400 horses, you probably need to be doing a divorced wastegate anyway (and chances are, you will be)


I've got the HKS downpipe; the only trick to these is that if it's ceramic coated it's imperiative that you DO NOT heat wrap them, the heat wrap will hold water against the coating and rust the mild steel right out from under it.

This is a non-issue for anyone not pushing 400+ crank horsepower.

The fact is that the most you stand to lose is one or two horsepower over a bellmouth setup.
exhaust gasses will be turbulent, period; after the turbocharger it really doesn't matter; and one must consider the internal pressure in the headers pre-turbo: much more significant pressure in those tubes than what exists in the rest of the exhaust system.

if you're pushing more than 400 horses, you probably need to be doing a divorced wastegate anyway (and chances are, you will be)


I've got the HKS downpipe; the only trick to these is that if it's ceramic coated it's imperiative that you DO NOT heat wrap them, the heat wrap will hold water against the coating and rust the mild steel right out from under it.

I was just recollecting my dsm experience where on a talon/eclipse getting a better o2 housing (part between the turbo & downpipe) off an evo was good for signifigant power(5-10+hp). This would be similar to getting a bellmouth or divorced housing type DP on a suby. That was on 16G's which aren't 400+hp turbos and are not an uncommon upgrade to the 22t.
But yeah, I agree that the less power you make the less impact this would have, if any. On a stock turbo 22t its probably negligible



Like I said, its arguable