OK, so the 93 wagon has weird AC (R12). Sometimes it works GREAT... blows ICE COLD. Most times it will stay somewhat cool when the car is in direct sunlight, then blow noticeably cloder air when I get in the shade, or if it rains, etc.
A good amount of the time, it will be churning just fine on the A/C, and then it starts clicking like crazy. It sounds to be coming from the dash area, but it will also cycle the compressor on and off rapidly. Which also affects how the car runs while driving, and especially idling. It will click 10 times in 5 seconds sometimes.
Where to begin? I changed the whole HVAC head unit, since the blend selector wasn't working right anyways (used to not go to full cold, now won't go to full hot so I think the actual blend door in the heater core is jammed up or something - another story). I'd rather have the full cold available now, than having full heat available for those terrible Georgia winters.
All the relays in the main box in the engine compartment look OK - no burnt leads or anything. But I dont' know really what to look for with those, though. Looking at some diagrams, might the A/C Cut Relay be the culprit? Or is the pressure switch going bonkers and is commanding the system to go on/off like this.
Basically the AC is good enough so I can stand to drive the car in GA summer, but when it starts clicking like crazy I turn it off for a few minutes and then turn it back on since it gets HOT in the car immediately. But I don't want to burn up the compressor nor do I want to hurt the car otherwise....
any ideas???
A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
12 Outback 3.6R Limited
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
The clicking is either because of a low charge. It has a system so that if it hits high head pressure it will shut off or if there is no refrigerant. Do both fans spin when A/C is on?? Did you try cleaning the condensor?? aka radiator looking item infront off the car radiator itself. Just get a hose or powerwasher and clean it.
1993 Subaru Legacy L AWD Wagon R.I.P
1994 Subaru Legacy SS R.I.P :(
2004 Nissan Titan LE 4X4
2007 Subaru Legacy GT :)
1994 Subaru Legacy SS R.I.P :(
2004 Nissan Titan LE 4X4
2007 Subaru Legacy GT :)
the condensor is clean and the fins are actually pretty good on it. not bad for a 15 yr old car with 190k on it.
i assume the fridge is good since sometimes it blows ICE COLD... i may be wrong, but it really seems like this is an electrical fault, not from the R12 level.
I'm just trying to avoid the $90 hookup fee for the R12 machine around here. knowing my luck the fridge would be great and it's just some stupid relay or something.
fans seem to work fine. i assume you mean the rad fans, not the blower motor and the recirc. (they all work)
i assume the fridge is good since sometimes it blows ICE COLD... i may be wrong, but it really seems like this is an electrical fault, not from the R12 level.
I'm just trying to avoid the $90 hookup fee for the R12 machine around here. knowing my luck the fridge would be great and it's just some stupid relay or something.
fans seem to work fine. i assume you mean the rad fans, not the blower motor and the recirc. (they all work)
12 Outback 3.6R Limited
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
okay, so I have a similar problem. My AC will blow ice cold for a couple hours on a long trip. then next thing I know it won't turn on at all. I did some searching and found a similar post about "clicking AC".
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... ermostatic
I think the issue is a thermostatic switch located behind the glove box and on top of the air box. The connector has 3 wires going into it, and two white wires for a thermocouple leaving the back of it. If you pull back on the switch body it will come free of the air box (don't pull too hard since the thermocouple wires are still attached to the evaporator). On the side of this switch is a diagram labeling the contacts. The lables are +, -, and L. I observed that ~14V exitst between L and ground when the compressor is off and ~2V exist when the compressor switches on. I'm guessing that "scuzzy" (see link to other post) is grounding the L connector to get his AC compressor to stay on.
The only issue I see with doing this is that the evaporator might ice up if the compressor stays on all the time.
By the way, I think you're rightly concerned about the compressor being harmed by rapid cycling. You might burn up the compressor clutch if you allow this problem to persist.
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... ermostatic
I think the issue is a thermostatic switch located behind the glove box and on top of the air box. The connector has 3 wires going into it, and two white wires for a thermocouple leaving the back of it. If you pull back on the switch body it will come free of the air box (don't pull too hard since the thermocouple wires are still attached to the evaporator). On the side of this switch is a diagram labeling the contacts. The lables are +, -, and L. I observed that ~14V exitst between L and ground when the compressor is off and ~2V exist when the compressor switches on. I'm guessing that "scuzzy" (see link to other post) is grounding the L connector to get his AC compressor to stay on.
The only issue I see with doing this is that the evaporator might ice up if the compressor stays on all the time.
By the way, I think you're rightly concerned about the compressor being harmed by rapid cycling. You might burn up the compressor clutch if you allow this problem to persist.
-
Mr.Pessimist
- First Gear
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Wed Feb 19, 2003 8:39 am
- Location: Spokane, WA
- Contact:
Sounds like your alternator might be going out. When my alternator went out in my '93 I would get a lot of relay issues (hence the clicking). If there's not enough voltage in the system to keep current flowing then the relays will want to revert to their natural state (open or closed).
So maybe when the A/C is on it's loading the charging system more when it's already weak.
So maybe when the A/C is on it's loading the charging system more when it's already weak.
~Ross
1993 FWD 5MT Green NA Legacy
1993 FWD 5MT Green NA Legacy
I'll have to check out the alternator....
and I'll pull the glovebox to try and find that thermocouple.
eric, I'm telling you the system blows ice cold AC sometimes, when it's working properly and not clicking like crazy. the temperature is definitely around 50 F when it's working right. it is COLD. this is most likely seeming like an electrical thing, not mechanical or w.r.t. the R12
and I'll pull the glovebox to try and find that thermocouple.
eric, I'm telling you the system blows ice cold AC sometimes, when it's working properly and not clicking like crazy. the temperature is definitely around 50 F when it's working right. it is COLD. this is most likely seeming like an electrical thing, not mechanical or w.r.t. the R12
12 Outback 3.6R Limited
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
well I finally got some time to look at this, pulled the glovebox and first looked at the blower motor resistor pack because i've read so many bad things about it. the cage around it is rusty as hell and the coils have green crud on them, not sure if that was/is supposed to be a cushion material so the coils don't arc/ground to the metal cage, but it looks like crap. Oh well, the blower motor works fine on all fan levels. So I just blew it out with compressed air and put it back in. I did the same thing with the blower motor (remove, clean, replace), it wasn't that dirty somehow... but....
the evaporator box was disgusting. there was at least an inch of solid crap on the bottom of the box (leaves, pine needles, crud) and the fins were full on the bottom too. And of course the stuff on the bottom was soggy due to the condensation it always gets while running the AC so it was a real biotch to get out. I bet the bottom of the fin rack is really clogged with this crap.
I couldnt get the evaporator box apart, it looked like the box was split to surround the lines coming through the firewall, so I could only open the box enough to shovel the crap out and shopvac it. (this took awhile especially trying to be ginger with the box so i didnt nudge the lines too hard or pull on the evaporator or anything). Finally got it decently clean.
by this time, it was getting late so i buttoned it all back up for now. I went to move the car around in the driveway and the AC blew ICE COLD again. But only for about 5-10 minutes until I heard a few quick clicks and turned it off. It was beer-thirty then so I had to go.
The line coming out of the firewall gets ice cold too, as does the one coming from the compressor.
I saw the evaporator thermo switch way up there on top of the box, unplugged it and the contacts look OK.
The AC cut relay, eee-gads is that thing way up there. If that is the cuplrit I will surely curse that little SOB as it doesnt look easy to get to (does the entire dash have to come out?).
The pressure switch on the receiver/drier, doesn't look like that can be removed without losing the 'fridge charge correct?
so next step is to get the meter out and start looking at 'trons all over the car, now knowing that the evaporator is in a hundred times better shape.
The evap thermo switch definitely could be the problem, so if the alternator checks out that will be next. The alternator may be bad, I think it's original (about 180-190k on this car). The battery is strong though so a charging problem would be a surprise. But..... a previous owner did put an alarm, door lock module, aftermarket stereo, etc in this car so the wiring has had a few hands in it (best buy chuckleheads to boot). And... while the AC is on max during the hot summer days, the idle goes a little bonkers sitting at red lights. So.... if it is the alternator I'd be happier than having to try to track down one of the many AC fridge components and their associated electrical components.
if all the 'trons check out for the alternator, I'll try the external switch route for the evap thermo switch. I'd surely rather do that then to go get BOHICA'd at the AC shop. When you mention R12 at AC shops, their eyes turn to dollar signs...
the evaporator box was disgusting. there was at least an inch of solid crap on the bottom of the box (leaves, pine needles, crud) and the fins were full on the bottom too. And of course the stuff on the bottom was soggy due to the condensation it always gets while running the AC so it was a real biotch to get out. I bet the bottom of the fin rack is really clogged with this crap.
I couldnt get the evaporator box apart, it looked like the box was split to surround the lines coming through the firewall, so I could only open the box enough to shovel the crap out and shopvac it. (this took awhile especially trying to be ginger with the box so i didnt nudge the lines too hard or pull on the evaporator or anything). Finally got it decently clean.
by this time, it was getting late so i buttoned it all back up for now. I went to move the car around in the driveway and the AC blew ICE COLD again. But only for about 5-10 minutes until I heard a few quick clicks and turned it off. It was beer-thirty then so I had to go.
The line coming out of the firewall gets ice cold too, as does the one coming from the compressor.
I saw the evaporator thermo switch way up there on top of the box, unplugged it and the contacts look OK.
The AC cut relay, eee-gads is that thing way up there. If that is the cuplrit I will surely curse that little SOB as it doesnt look easy to get to (does the entire dash have to come out?).
The pressure switch on the receiver/drier, doesn't look like that can be removed without losing the 'fridge charge correct?
so next step is to get the meter out and start looking at 'trons all over the car, now knowing that the evaporator is in a hundred times better shape.
The evap thermo switch definitely could be the problem, so if the alternator checks out that will be next. The alternator may be bad, I think it's original (about 180-190k on this car). The battery is strong though so a charging problem would be a surprise. But..... a previous owner did put an alarm, door lock module, aftermarket stereo, etc in this car so the wiring has had a few hands in it (best buy chuckleheads to boot). And... while the AC is on max during the hot summer days, the idle goes a little bonkers sitting at red lights. So.... if it is the alternator I'd be happier than having to try to track down one of the many AC fridge components and their associated electrical components.
if all the 'trons check out for the alternator, I'll try the external switch route for the evap thermo switch. I'd surely rather do that then to go get BOHICA'd at the AC shop. When you mention R12 at AC shops, their eyes turn to dollar signs...
12 Outback 3.6R Limited
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
it's gonna be that damn thermo switch, I promise.
there's a bolt holding the top of the airbox to the dash frame, this also holds up some wire pack; undo the bolt and let the airbox drop a little. you'll then be able to get your hands on the thermo switch controller which is attached right to the top of the airbox
the gray wires run into the top of the airbox and into the left side of the condenser - there's a little clip holding it in place so you'll have to grab that and tug on it to get it come out, then pull it through the hole in the top of the airbox.
I abandoned my toggle switch idea, I was concerned that I was damaging the compressor. luckily for me the thermal switch is only about $40 new; I've just got to dig up the part number for it again.
there's a bolt holding the top of the airbox to the dash frame, this also holds up some wire pack; undo the bolt and let the airbox drop a little. you'll then be able to get your hands on the thermo switch controller which is attached right to the top of the airbox
the gray wires run into the top of the airbox and into the left side of the condenser - there's a little clip holding it in place so you'll have to grab that and tug on it to get it come out, then pull it through the hole in the top of the airbox.
I abandoned my toggle switch idea, I was concerned that I was damaging the compressor. luckily for me the thermal switch is only about $40 new; I've just got to dig up the part number for it again.
91 Legacy Wagon, Total Rally Car.
#82 M4 TRSCCA Rallycross
http://www.youtube.com/mobilepolice/
#82 M4 TRSCCA Rallycross
http://www.youtube.com/mobilepolice/
for $40 new I'd go for one if I was sure that is the problem
I'll prob try to dig one out of the junkyard this weekend if I can get over there.
So the whole thermo switch includes the wires that go out of it, around the box, and into the evaporator?? It'd be nice if it were just the switch itself, but i guess the end of the wire is a thermocouple sensor.
I just sure as hell don't want to take out the evaporator if I don't have to, discharging and recharging the system are last resorts. if I had to do that I'd convert to R134a
I'll prob try to dig one out of the junkyard this weekend if I can get over there.
So the whole thermo switch includes the wires that go out of it, around the box, and into the evaporator?? It'd be nice if it were just the switch itself, but i guess the end of the wire is a thermocouple sensor.
I just sure as hell don't want to take out the evaporator if I don't have to, discharging and recharging the system are last resorts. if I had to do that I'd convert to R134a
12 Outback 3.6R Limited
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
-
93forestpearl
- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3043
- Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:14 pm
- Location: Twin Cities, MN
Re: A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
FYI... just to update an old post.
I finally fixed the A/C on this 93 car, seems like once and for all. It definitely was the evaporator thermostatic switch. I grabbed a switch from the junkyard and spliced it in to the car, luckily able to get the job done without having to raise or remove the entire dashboard. I was able to strip the wires coming from the evap box, and spliced in the replacement switch. At first, I used butt splices and obviously reversed the two wires, since the wires aren't really marked and are the same color. So, instead I swapped the wires and used bullet disconnects instead - I recommend anyone trying to splice in a new switch and not replacing the entire switch with the sensor and all stuck down into the evaporator, to use bullet connectors so if you get it wrong, you just swap the two bullets over (the A/C compressor would not run at all with the wires backwards, and I immediately knew that I must have had the wires backwards).
The switch rapidly clicking/cycling probably lead to two other problems on the car, also. So watch out for these. One of the 3 wires leading to the A/C cooling/condensor fan, was burned and it had cracked/broken some of the plastic connector right there on the fan where it wires into the car harness. (this cause intermittent fan operation - so it was tough to figure out why the fan worked sometimes and very rarely it would not) Also, the 3 wires leading to that damn little evap thermo switch, were a little damaged and the contact was sometimes intermittent. So, if you have a clicking switch you need to look out for these and make sure the wiring/connectors are 100%.
The R-12 freon levels checked good in the 93 car, compressor cycles normally now, and it blows ICE COLD!!!! Feels colder than the factory R134a system in my 94 car.
I finally fixed the A/C on this 93 car, seems like once and for all. It definitely was the evaporator thermostatic switch. I grabbed a switch from the junkyard and spliced it in to the car, luckily able to get the job done without having to raise or remove the entire dashboard. I was able to strip the wires coming from the evap box, and spliced in the replacement switch. At first, I used butt splices and obviously reversed the two wires, since the wires aren't really marked and are the same color. So, instead I swapped the wires and used bullet disconnects instead - I recommend anyone trying to splice in a new switch and not replacing the entire switch with the sensor and all stuck down into the evaporator, to use bullet connectors so if you get it wrong, you just swap the two bullets over (the A/C compressor would not run at all with the wires backwards, and I immediately knew that I must have had the wires backwards).
The switch rapidly clicking/cycling probably lead to two other problems on the car, also. So watch out for these. One of the 3 wires leading to the A/C cooling/condensor fan, was burned and it had cracked/broken some of the plastic connector right there on the fan where it wires into the car harness. (this cause intermittent fan operation - so it was tough to figure out why the fan worked sometimes and very rarely it would not) Also, the 3 wires leading to that damn little evap thermo switch, were a little damaged and the contact was sometimes intermittent. So, if you have a clicking switch you need to look out for these and make sure the wiring/connectors are 100%.
The R-12 freon levels checked good in the 93 car, compressor cycles normally now, and it blows ICE COLD!!!! Feels colder than the factory R134a system in my 94 car.
12 Outback 3.6R Limited
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
Re: A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
Diagnose each piece by bypassing one part at a time using a jumper.
AC relaycoil side:
---control box--evap switch --refrigerant low pressure switch on high side--
I've determined my issue to be intermittent connection in the control box.
contact side:
MFPI relay.. this is on contact side. So, you only blame this if the clutch isn't coming on even when the A/C relay is kicking on
As for the evaporator switch...there's ground, contact, and power. The switch contains the electronics to translate temperature to on/off.
If you can remove the sensor from a part donor car, simply leave the old one in place. Make a small hole in the evap case, push the tip inside.
Remove the fan resistor, reach for the sensor and shove the sensor tip into the evaporator fin. Basically you just got to get the sensor to touch the evaporator.
AC relaycoil side:
---control box--evap switch --refrigerant low pressure switch on high side--
I've determined my issue to be intermittent connection in the control box.
contact side:
MFPI relay.. this is on contact side. So, you only blame this if the clutch isn't coming on even when the A/C relay is kicking on
As for the evaporator switch...there's ground, contact, and power. The switch contains the electronics to translate temperature to on/off.
If you can remove the sensor from a part donor car, simply leave the old one in place. Make a small hole in the evap case, push the tip inside.
Remove the fan resistor, reach for the sensor and shove the sensor tip into the evaporator fin. Basically you just got to get the sensor to touch the evaporator.
Re: A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
jp2333,
I just started having the same problem. I can't exactly pinpoint what triggers it.
It doesn't appear to be on control side. It's the cut out relay, which is controlled by MFPI that clicks.
Its the same click location as when you floor the gas (which causes ECU to kill the AC)
I just started having the same problem. I can't exactly pinpoint what triggers it.
It doesn't appear to be on control side. It's the cut out relay, which is controlled by MFPI that clicks.
Its the same click location as when you floor the gas (which causes ECU to kill the AC)
Re: A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
I jumpered the evaporator switch. It's been fine since.
When I had the push button module out it would do the same thing when I tugged on the harness. It was failing solder joints on circuit board.
I'm not sure if the problem was caused by the unit or the evaporator switch. If it's the evaporator switch I wonder if the board inside suffered the same fault as the HVAC unit.
It's basically a 12v powered electronic thermostat with an external probe. The main board soldering could be bad on it. I'd have to crack one open and see.
When I had the push button module out it would do the same thing when I tugged on the harness. It was failing solder joints on circuit board.
I'm not sure if the problem was caused by the unit or the evaporator switch. If it's the evaporator switch I wonder if the board inside suffered the same fault as the HVAC unit.
It's basically a 12v powered electronic thermostat with an external probe. The main board soldering could be bad on it. I'd have to crack one open and see.
-
jeffreybruton
- In Neutral
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 8:50 pm
Re: A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
Guys:
Would any of you know the Subaru Part # for the thermostatic switch located behind the glove box and on top of the air box?
Thanks
Jeffrey Bruton
Would any of you know the Subaru Part # for the thermostatic switch located behind the glove box and on top of the air box?
Thanks
Jeffrey Bruton
Re: A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
Welcome to the BBS Jeffrey.
I don't have the part # off the top of my head, but you can d/l the parts book from me and find it in there.
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=30531
I don't have the part # off the top of my head, but you can d/l the parts book from me and find it in there.
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=30531
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
-
jeffreybruton
- In Neutral
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 8:50 pm
Re: A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
Thanks Josh (4.5 months later)!
Before I start, mine is a 1994 Legacy LS with 102k miles.
Well, replacing what you all were talking about, and what I called the "thermostatic switch" in my post above seemed to do the trick in my 30 minute test drive in 87 degree heat. No more sporadic and too frequent clicking. Just a nice operating AC and a click every minute or two which if I remember correctly is about normal. Even confirmed when I got back that the click corresponds with the compressor magnetic clutch engaging (or disengaging) and the condenser fans coming on (or off).
A couple of notes on my experience:
1. New from the dealer the switch cost me $119.08! Yow! Subaru part # on the box is: 73071AA050.
2. A picture of the switch and its attached temp probe is below:
3. I did what jp233 did and didn't try to remove the temp prob from inside the evaporator case (airbox). I just cut off the wires from the old switch (and my new one), and used male and female crimp spade connectors. jp233 had it right using the what he called "bullet disconnects" which I imagine are the cylindrical male and female crimp connectors. The cases they have mean the metal part of the connectors is covered (and will not short to anything) when you connect them. I didn't have any of those in the garage so used the spades. Just make sure to wrap the spades in electrical tape if you have to use them.
4. Probably from jp233's warning about hooking up the probe wires backwards the first time, I took special notice of how the probe wires come out of the switch. They come out flat and parallel with the top of the switch. Before I cut off the old switch I marked on the left one with a Sharpie and did the same for the new one. I observed this marking when I connected the new switch and got it right the first time. Thanks jp233!
5. I seem to remember in this thread someone maybe mentioning to just poke a little hole in the case and insert the probe from the new switch instead of messing with using the old probe like I describe above and like jp233 did. A word of caution here: I finally got a whole set of factory manuals (for my 1994 its the set for 1992 and the 1994 addendum) for my Legacy!!! Thanks to apparently all the dealers going digital these can easily be found on eBay! Anyway, please see the link to a .PDF for a scan from the manual below:
http://www.jeffreybruton.com/images/sub ... _tstat.pdf
It details in the bottom corner (Fig. 110) that the temp probe needs to go in a very specific place (according to the factory), and even listed how far down the evaporator and at the "4th fin".
6. I've always been kind of bugged that our cars don't have a "recirculate" button on the heating/AC controls like TONS of other cars. Driving behind a diesel you can't stop the "fresh" air from coming in!! Studying the service manual for this little project got me a work-around. The manual details there is indeed a recirculate mode...but you the driver can't activate it in an obvious way. The manual clearly details recirculate mode is ONLY engaged when you have "Max A/C" selected. Every other heating or A/C button puts the system in "fresh air mode" drawing air from the outside. Soooooo...next time you are behind a diesel, cattle truck, or driving by a pulp mill hit "Max A/C"!!
Thanks again Josh for the site and to all who contributed to this thread!! Forums and the world wide network have REALLY changed things for the better!
Jeffrey Bruton
Before I start, mine is a 1994 Legacy LS with 102k miles.
Well, replacing what you all were talking about, and what I called the "thermostatic switch" in my post above seemed to do the trick in my 30 minute test drive in 87 degree heat. No more sporadic and too frequent clicking. Just a nice operating AC and a click every minute or two which if I remember correctly is about normal. Even confirmed when I got back that the click corresponds with the compressor magnetic clutch engaging (or disengaging) and the condenser fans coming on (or off).
A couple of notes on my experience:
1. New from the dealer the switch cost me $119.08! Yow! Subaru part # on the box is: 73071AA050.
2. A picture of the switch and its attached temp probe is below:
3. I did what jp233 did and didn't try to remove the temp prob from inside the evaporator case (airbox). I just cut off the wires from the old switch (and my new one), and used male and female crimp spade connectors. jp233 had it right using the what he called "bullet disconnects" which I imagine are the cylindrical male and female crimp connectors. The cases they have mean the metal part of the connectors is covered (and will not short to anything) when you connect them. I didn't have any of those in the garage so used the spades. Just make sure to wrap the spades in electrical tape if you have to use them.
4. Probably from jp233's warning about hooking up the probe wires backwards the first time, I took special notice of how the probe wires come out of the switch. They come out flat and parallel with the top of the switch. Before I cut off the old switch I marked on the left one with a Sharpie and did the same for the new one. I observed this marking when I connected the new switch and got it right the first time. Thanks jp233!
5. I seem to remember in this thread someone maybe mentioning to just poke a little hole in the case and insert the probe from the new switch instead of messing with using the old probe like I describe above and like jp233 did. A word of caution here: I finally got a whole set of factory manuals (for my 1994 its the set for 1992 and the 1994 addendum) for my Legacy!!! Thanks to apparently all the dealers going digital these can easily be found on eBay! Anyway, please see the link to a .PDF for a scan from the manual below:
http://www.jeffreybruton.com/images/sub ... _tstat.pdf
It details in the bottom corner (Fig. 110) that the temp probe needs to go in a very specific place (according to the factory), and even listed how far down the evaporator and at the "4th fin".
6. I've always been kind of bugged that our cars don't have a "recirculate" button on the heating/AC controls like TONS of other cars. Driving behind a diesel you can't stop the "fresh" air from coming in!! Studying the service manual for this little project got me a work-around. The manual details there is indeed a recirculate mode...but you the driver can't activate it in an obvious way. The manual clearly details recirculate mode is ONLY engaged when you have "Max A/C" selected. Every other heating or A/C button puts the system in "fresh air mode" drawing air from the outside. Soooooo...next time you are behind a diesel, cattle truck, or driving by a pulp mill hit "Max A/C"!!
Thanks again Josh for the site and to all who contributed to this thread!! Forums and the world wide network have REALLY changed things for the better!
Jeffrey Bruton
Last edited by jeffreybruton on Mon Jul 01, 2013 3:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
Jeffery,
Glad to hear you got the AC fixed and it was the thermo switch.
Glad to hear you got the AC fixed and it was the thermo switch.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Re: A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
That's quite expensive. Mine is bypassed with a jumper. I'm going to crack open the old one to see whats wrong. I have a feeling that its a mechanical failure like the relay inside or solder on PCB.
-
free5ty1e
- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2266
- Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 12:26 am
- Location: USA: Portland, OR (Tigard, ~200ft elevation)
- Contact:
Re: A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
Mine is bypassed with a switch... currently in the on position. It is mounted directly on the connector behind the glovebox, but my plans are to run this switch to a convenient location on the dash...then I will label it "A/C auto (on), disable (off)" ...Although that may be backwards it will become obvious when I test it out. The point is, I will be able to disable the a/c and hit the max a/c button for recirculating air without the compressor ď
Also will allow me to defrost the damned windows with heat and no compressor if I so choose... and use bi level with just vents and no compressor. Neat! Just like almost all other cars ive ever seen. Lol
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 4
Also will allow me to defrost the damned windows with heat and no compressor if I so choose... and use bi level with just vents and no compressor. Neat! Just like almost all other cars ive ever seen. Lol
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 4
-Chris
91SS 4EAT stock
91SS 5MT awaiting engine rebuild and VF36...
92SS 4EAT - RIP
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 289k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
91SS 4EAT stock
91SS 5MT awaiting engine rebuild and VF36...
92SS 4EAT - RIP
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 289k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
Re: A/C sometimes clicks itself silly
sorry to revive a 'wicked old thread dude'
Jeff - Glad to hear things worked out.... glad I could be of help as it stumped me for a while.
Of course, if I didn't have to perform ninja magic to get to that evap switch which is so hard to access, it would've been mo' betta'
Chris - that is interesting about the recirc switch. Yeah, it is separate on a lot of other cars and comes in handy, albeit most handy with cars that have a cabin air filter as you can try to reduce the inhalation of old clunkers belching gas, or diesels blowing soot.
~Pat
Jeff - Glad to hear things worked out.... glad I could be of help as it stumped me for a while.
Of course, if I didn't have to perform ninja magic to get to that evap switch which is so hard to access, it would've been mo' betta'
Chris - that is interesting about the recirc switch. Yeah, it is separate on a lot of other cars and comes in handy, albeit most handy with cars that have a cabin air filter as you can try to reduce the inhalation of old clunkers belching gas, or diesels blowing soot.
~Pat
12 Outback 3.6R Limited
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project
94 Leg LS wag AWD, sold
93 Leg L wag FWD, sold
06 LGT 5EAT, project