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I've a small question.. hopefully an easy solution too

My oil pan just recently started leaking like a harley... It rusted through where this little strengthening tab connects the dipstick tube receiving tube to the pan... SO, I bought a new pan and gasket... *odd that something so covered in oil would rust through..*

I'm going to seam seal around the tab and paint er up all glossy black.. BUT, I've a question...

Will I be able to put the pan in with merely unbolting the pitch stopper, engine mounts and intercooler?

I remember thinking "wow, putting the oil pan on, with the engine in, would be a pain, if not impossible..."

I'm really hoping I dont need to pull the engine/pull the cradle.... AND if I were to drop the cradle... would I need to have it aligned afterwards?

thanks guys ^^

I look forward to your advice!

It's possible but a bitch. I helped someone do it once and this is how -

Jack the engine up by the oil pan until the transmission is touching the tunnel(after removing pitch and mounts). With a second jack lift the car slightly by the jack plate and then lift the engine a little. The goal is to place jack stands under the headsso that when you lower the car the transmission just barely touches the tunnel. The good thing about using jack stands this way is that the engine shouldnt slip and cut your arm off while loosening the pan.

You had better have many different sized extensions and swivels because the rears are HARD to get at.

Can I suggest you buy some new stiffened engine mounts while you are at it? They are a nice improvement over the stock mush.

I'd be surprised if you could do it with the engine bolted in. Not only are the back bolts hard to get at, but oil pans often want to stay where they've been and having no room to move around it leaves you little option with the hammer. BUT, I don't think you'll have to pull the motor out - just lift it. Unbolt the pitch stopper, the two engine mounts at the crossmember, and lift it. You may have to disconnect something or other, but probably not. You don't need to get it aligned if you drop the crossmember unless you disconnect the tie rods to do it. Lifting the engine a little is a much quicker and easier job and you'll need something to hold the engine either way.

ciper wrote:It's possible but a bitch. I helped someone do it once and this is how -

Jack the engine up by the oil pan until the transmission is touching the tunnel(after removing pitch and mounts). With a second jack lift the car slightly by the jack plate and then lift the engine a little. The goal is to place jack stands under the headsso that when you lower the car the transmission just barely touches the tunnel. The good thing about using jack stands this way is that the engine shouldnt slip and cut your arm off while loosening the pan.

You had better have many different sized extensions and swivels because the rears are HARD to get at.

Can I suggest you buy some new stiffened engine mounts while you are at it? They are a nice improvement over the stock mush.

I've those urethane mounts already in there.. They are nice!

My buddies shop is fully equipped with a lift and like four snapon tool chests. I just hope the lift is free!

I'll be replacing the radiator this weekend as well, this might be a good time to replace the pan.

With the radiator gone and coolant lines disconnected, I take it I'll need to:

1. unbolt my TMIC
2. unbolt pitch stop
3. unbolt engine mounts from cradle and remove from engine for extra room..

4. elevate engine/trans..

5. play houdini with bolts...


I'm thinking it'd be a good time to double check clutch line for air.. bleed it... and while it's up, bleed my brakes and replace my turbo water inlet hose....

sounds like a good three day weekend.

While you are at it consider a new OEM thermostat. You can get the gasket from the parts store but the generic thermos suck compared to the Subaru unit.

ciper wrote:While you are at it consider a new OEM thermostat. You can get the gasket from the parts store but the generic thermos suck compared to the Subaru unit.

I replaced the thermostat like 2k miles ago.. but thanks for the suggestion

got everything done.. the only real problem I ran into was the oilpan downspout... I had to cut the brace and move it over.. so yeah, you get what you pay for... I bought my oilpan from a guy on ebay.. the downspout was welded in wrong, like 1/4" from it's normal position, so there was no way the pan would go on without modifying it...

oh and gutted the cat..
I used a chop saw on the bottom most rib, cutting the bottom off the cat.

I used an air hammer to remove both honey combs..

I then took the bottom, and mig welded it back on.. I didn't replace the rusty ass, noisy and flappy heat shields. I suppose I could have but as long as the cat is there, it'll pass inspection here in missouri..
they dont smog test here. *engine is brand new anyhow, so it should be running fairly clean*

I hate to tell you what I got for my cats when I did the downpipe. Those things are worth some real good money.

Jeff

yeah, like 30-40 each right

The first place I went to offered me $36 for the pair. I knew that wasn't right so I kept them and checked with my Suby tech friend Chris, who told me the place to go. I got $165 there. Huge difference. First place was just ripping people off.

Jeff

Scrap is definitely who you know. Some clown off the street could go to my guy and get beer money where I'd be getting car payment money. Check out the price of platinum-family metals lately (or almost any metal) and you'll see you should be getting some decent cash for cats. Cat theft is supposed to be booming right now. I wouldn't be surprised to hear of these SUVs collecting dust on dealer lots getting hit a half-dozen at a time. Around here the scrap yards take your plate number and ID so if you turn up with dozens of new cats, you'd better have an answer for the police and perhaps the FBI (the all cash business attracts OC and terrorists).

I got 180/ton for shred.. my rolled s10 net about $200 after hauling away fuel and sawzall blades.

Oh and update on the oil/water leaks.
DUDE! I love having a non leaky car! It feels so much better that my flipping expensive engine rebuild isn't teetering on the brink of death if I forgot to put more water/oil in. And I sent an email to the guy ebaying the oilpans.. he's getting things sorted out. I was amazed that he didn't just say feckoff..

So now I just need a transmission!

I also replaced the turbo coolant inlet hose... it was kinked, so I figure it's better to do it now, while I haven't overheated my turbo..