legacycentral bbs

I emailed Link ECU about a PnP stand-alone and here is what I got...


> Hello,
>
> I am building a 91 Legacy SS (USDM) and am looking for a good
> stand-alone ECU for mu car. Do you offer a plug and play ECU for my car.
>
> Thank you

We sure do and can offer it on our just released G4 platform.

Simon

Next I will email them for a price.

I can say with pretty good confidence that they don't.

I don't care what stand alone you use, but they are never plug & play.

I suggest you look over this thread
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=35193

Even if the they make you a plug-in harness, you will still need to run some wires. If you are going through the effort/funds, you might as well run speed density anyways.

When I was in the market, I was quoted about $700 for a plug-in adapter harness. To me, spending an extra $500 over the basic 2m loom was stupid. It took me two days to wire the thing.




Have they released any details on the G4 yet? I wonder if they can run low impedance injectors. My buddy was going to get the G3 but the injector drivers can't handle under 5 ohms.

That was about what I was quoted for the adapta link as well. Not worth it in my opinion.

Once I get the intercooler done, I'm probably going to take a few days off from work to try and wiring everything up.

I looked on their site yesterday and didn't see anything in regards to the G4.

It would be cool if the firmware still used the G2/G3 protocol, or whatever you call it. I've been waiting for a few things to open up.

So here is a pic of the Link ECU G4 for the Subaru Legacy.

According to the sales rep I've been in contact with it will plug directly into the 90-94 Legacy harness in place of the OE ECU.

SInce I don't feel like tearing my carpet up right now, do any of you have a pic of your Legacy ECU we can compare against?

The ECU connectors are identical to our connectors. Same with the Link G3. However to say it'll just plug right in is a little sketchy to me, unles they made a US first gen legacy specific one....which I doubt.....

I'm not one to get my hopes up too high either especially when dealing with the automotive aftermarket.

According to the sales rep, it will plug right in.

I guess over this winter I may be playing the guinnea pig and seeing what happens.

There are two issues to check out.

First is the 2 channel to 4 channel. If you can set the software to 2 channel operation, you should be good to go. If not, you can add a 4-channel ignitor to the harness and remove the 2 channel one.

Second is the pressure sensor ground. The EJ20G and the USDM Ej22t have different pins for it.

From an earlier post:

Check engine light is out! Turns out that the EG20G boost sensor shares it's ground with the water temp sensor. The EJ22T boost sensor has it's own ground. The solution was to remove pin 5 on B48 and join it with pin 21 on B48.

You should be able to set the Link to either operation. Mine is a Link Plus though, so I'm not sure. I just selected wasted spark, set which ignition channels I wanted, and was good to go.



I honestly feel that wiring in your system is the best route, as you can clean up your harness and remove a bunch of crap you won't use. I have a few extra plugs and crap that I don't use. In MN we have no emissions or inspections of any kind, so all the evaporative crap, MAF sensor, among other stuff, is not used by me.


Taking the engine bay loom apart also allows you to move anything that may be in your way down the road. Like the vacuum pump for the cruise control.

I have a wire in G1, can anybody help me figure out how to wire it in?

Ummm, kind of hard to do over the internet. Just download the FSM's that Josh has around here somewhere and study them until you are sure of your plan of attack. The FSM has about 10 pages explaining how to read the wiring diagrams which helps significantly.

thanks, I'll come ask more informed questions later. (Hint noobs!)

OP: What did the final price end up being? I could use a standalone EMS for my Outback running an OBD1 EJ22T ECU. I'm still shopping right now though, seeing what system (if any) fits within my budget.

They haven't released pricing yet but if it follows the industry trend it will likely be in the $1500 range.

I'll try and find out more.

very very interesting please keep us inform on your progress

Ditto that. I want standalone if it works out of the box.

The sales rep responded and stated the price of the G4 is "$1400nz"

Now, I don't know for sure if that's $1400 US dollars or $1400 New Zealand dollars. Either price is fair assuming once again that it's PnP.

$1400 NZd = $973 USd

Simon, from Link ECU quickly replied to my pricing inquiry and confirmed that it is indeed $1400 New Zealand dollars.

The way I see it, even if there were some pinout issues that had to be reworked for USDM cars it is still totally worth it for a mere $973.

I'm now more inclined than ever to give the G4 a shot and make sure I get their pinouts so I can verify them with my manuals prior to installation.

Honestly....I suggest you try and talk with a USA rep.

http://performancedevelopments.com is the USA Link Dealer or what not. If you order a Link from someone in the states, it comes through them.

Other thing to verify, is this a Link, or is it a LinkPlus? I suggest you do a little more research before slapping down the money, because the standard Link has less inputs/outputs, and will work for your basic fueling & timing needs, but I don't feel it to be a complete engine management solution.

Like I said, for all the research I've done on stand alones, what you're saying sounds kind of fishy.

Well...

Here are the technical specs for the G4.

G4 Storm

and then compare to the G3...

LinkPlus G3

What's your opinion?

Looks to me like the G4 is inbetween a Link Plus and a standard Link. The G4 gives you 2-4 ignition channels, and the Link Plus G2/G3 gives you 8.

There are other subtle differences too. But yes, the G4 looks like a nice setup for the money. I'm willing to bet they will be coming out with a more advanced unit in the $1600-1800 range.


My question is what impedance can the injector drivers run. They said high current on the previous models, but can only handle down to 5 ohms. Low impedance injectors are in the 2 ohm range.

What is the impedence of Subaru sidefeeds?

They're high impedence I believe.

Yes all stock subaru injectors are high impedance. I'm just wondering because low impedance are much easier to find and cheaper than low impedance injectors if you are looking for anything over about 900cc. A set of 1600's will run you under $400. Plus with the low impedance injectors you have very little issue with idle since they react quicker than high impedance.

Not many people probably care about that though.