legacycentral bbs

Parts needed:
Gasket (6 bucks from SOA, I'll post the part number 2night)
Transmission fluid
Duty C (got mine for 45 shipped, used but working)

Time:A looong afternoon at least (took me longer, since I did it twice)

The steps are as follows
-Drain tranny fluid
-Remove mid-pipe, down pipe, drive shaft, rear transmission cross member (unbolt form body first, then from transmission)
-Unbolt the bolts around the rear housing (11 or 12 i think)
-(This part is a pain in the ass) I had to straight up whack the rear housing with a hammer to get it to separate (Hit it on the webbing near the drive shaft cover where the bolt holes for the cross member bolt into the tranny). By hitting it here, you lessen the chance of cracking the housing (even tho some of the webbing did crack off a bit, fortunately no biggie)
-Remove the rear housing, unclip duty c.
-Depending on where the clutch pack is place it back into the transmission.
-If the pin with the spring comes out place it back on (the arm of the spring rests on the bottom half of the transmission (should be clearer to understand when you do it).
-Clean old gasket off keeping the insides clean.
-Place the new gasket on the transmission.
-Unbolt old duty c and put new one in.
-Connect it back up to the wire in the transmission and push the connector back into the hole (you will see what I mean)
-Slide the rear housing back on MAKING SURE THE GASKET IS ALIGNED PROPERLY (I messed this up, went thought the headache of having to do it all over again)
-When sliding it back on, the first time I had to use a mallet, the second time, it basically slid on all the way by hand.
-Tighten all the bolts (do them from corner to corner, side to side, so you don't warp the housing or anything)
-Reattach everything.
-Fill fluid back up.

Like I said, seems simple, but there is a good chance you will run into problems. Mine include.
-2 broken bolts. (one for the housing, I got out, one on the tranny sump (didn't get out, doesn't seem to be a major issue, don't ask why I had the sump off)
-A soldering iron burn to the hand and the face. The wire for the duty c was routed incorrectly inside the transmission and prevented me from pulling it out of the hole. (it was rebuilt) I had to pull it around another way, so I cut the old duty c wire and soldering a long wire to it so I wouldn't accidentally loose it in the transmission, and used a metal wire and pulled it thought the other way. The iron came in contact with my hand and my head, I was unamused.
-Tail housing is a BITCH to get off.


I don't have any pictures, but its mostly self explanatory when you are under there (only slightly confusing part is the metal rod w/ the spring on it), just requires some fiddling.


Unanswered questions: I still get the flashing power light on startup, tonight I will try resetting my ecu to see if it gets rid of it (hopefully it will, heard of someone who had similar problem on here)

Not really related, but when I am in drive at a full stop, the car seems to shake and the revs drop low (as if the transmission is causing resistance, like if you are half way to stalling a manual car with the handbrake on). Doesn't affect the car in any way, goes a way when put in neutral/park (i think maybe in reverse as well). Just wondering if that is normal.

Overall impression:At first i thought it was my imagination, but im certain it is not now, took car into the street (cul-de-sac) and did turns at full lock, ZERO scrubbing, the car in general fells soooo much smoother, literally put a smile on my face. Seriously do it, cost me about 6 bucks and some blood and sweat but she drives like a dream now.

Drai nthe tranny, otherwise you will have a mess. Then once you lower the crossmember to get the tailhousing off, you'll have a mess anyways.


There is a gasket for the rear tail housing. It is a paper type that is impregnated with some sort of glue that activates when hot. This makes the tailhousing a joy to get off

When sliding it back on, you need to be able to turn the output shaft (often times with the driveshaft) so you can line up all the transfer clutches. If it won't go all the way, they aren't lined up.

When I pulled it off, the parking awl, pin, and spring came out. If my buddy that rebuilds trannys wasn't there, I would have been a bit lost as to how it went back in there.


When you've got it apart, look at hte transfer clutches to make sure they are alright.

I have only done this once, but:

1.) Yes, there will be fluid. I didn't drain mine, though. I just put a container under the housing when i cracked it open. I also had nothing come falling out when I opened mine.

2.) Dunno about the sealant. I didn't use any.

3.) I had no troubles lining things up when putting it back together.

I remember being shocked at how easy it was. The hardest part was getting the exhaust out of the way.

^ If you don't toutch the transfer clutches they will msot likely stay lined up as they were. If you are in there though, one should check the clutches to make syre they are OK.

Alright, so right now, I have the back housing of, and I can see the lead for the duty c solenoid that goes back into a hole in the transmission. Unfortunate, the connector (between the solenoid and the transmission) can not be pulled out. There is a bolt of some sort that runs vertically down in that hole and the wire goes to the left side and therefor can not be pulled out (the connector is bigger than the space between the bolt and transmission housing), is it ok to cut the wire and run it around the right side of the bolt. (really hard to explain, so someone who is familiar with this may need to chime in)

just did mine last night and another today, the connector is wedged in the ex housing, simply pull on the connector and you'll get about 3 inches of slack.
also i put the clutch pack on and spin with hand till seated and there was room for me to slide casing over the shaft .
want any pics let me know

Just wondering how hard it was for you to get the housing back on, it will slide on until there is about a 1/4-1/2 inch gap, then to get it on the rest of the way, I had to tap it with a mallet. Is this normal or should it just slide on easy th whole way?

I made sure the guide pins were clean so there was interference from those.



When I used the driveshaft to line up the tranfer clutches it slid together nicely.

I assume the transfer clutches are the 2 large circular things in the rear section? Is there any way to tell if they are worn out. From just looking at them, they seem like they are in good condition, and I can't see any wear.

And as far as lining them up using the drive shaft, how do I tell when they are lined up perfectly?

Sorry for the questions, I'm just trying to make sure that this goes back together properly and doesn't cause problems.

it took some force to get them back on so it is easier to use the drive line to push in back on. i put the shaft with clutches on first then spun them till it seated, then case, make sure you plug connecter and push it in to make sure no pinching occures.
i think your ok long as you were just tapping with the malet.
and no wear, good sign!

I finally finished it up (at around 11), took it out for a spin, and it seems a whole lot smoother now, like silky smooth. At first I thought it was just my imagination, but the torque bind is gone and the whole car just seems way better.

Ill post up a longer post 2morrow, but I'm psyched.

Go find some gravel to verify its operation

Alright, for those wanting to do this, its pretty straight froward, although its not necessarily easy.

INSTRUCTIONS EDITED INTO FIRST POST

93forestpearl wrote:Go find some gravel to verify its operation

Oh I will, I cannot wait

Fixing a boot on the steering rack tonight, as well as an oil change. This weekend I'm doing some body/cosmetic stuff as well as installing my 6 hella 500's (haha, so completely unnecessary, but I don't care - 4 driving lights, 2 fog lights). Next week, I have a 07 intercooler and turbo to go on (scored them for 200 bucks together, 6000 miles, no damage/shaft play/anything, im so psyched. As well as new tires (Yokohama W4S going on JDM legacy BD5 wheels)

Then I drive back to school on Friday or sat, and the next step is MBC, exhaust, FCD.

NOW I'M FUC*ING PISSED.

Drove it for a few days, worked like a charm. Go to a friends house, and come out a few hours later...the power light starts flashing upon start up, I have torque bind again, and the AWD feels off again.

I am thinking its not the solenoid itself but somewhere further down the line. Can anyone tell me the path that the duty C takes and where it connects outside of the transmission (If it does at all). I really am fed up with this, it's hard to keep loving your car when this shit keeps happening.

You can follow the wiring diagram and trace the wire. If the problem is intermittent, you may have a short somewhere.

The problem is intermittent, so I'm guessing that could be my problem.

Here are a couple of links that may (or not) be helpful from USMB:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/sho ... fer+clutch

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/sho ... orque+bind

I did this R&R myself, with a new Duty C (didn't want to go back in for that later), and it's been much better.

- I didn't replace clutches, but only filed down the grooves on the drive hub (per the link above). I went from occasional torque bind and 1-2 second delay b4 the AWD kicked in, to...AWD all the time.

One thing to try is testing w/the FWD fuse...should be info in the links above.

Good luck.