legacycentral bbs

Is there any info you can give me on what I should look out for?
-bolts that snap regularly, don't forget to do_____-

Is there anything else I should replace while I have it apart?

Any advice would be very helpfull.

thanks

i forgot to remove the grounding strap on top of the tranny... kinda stupid. had to re crimp an end on it.

fluid will leak out when you pull the rear drive shaft... so DRAIN it FIRST.

Thanks....... good info.........just what I was looking for........

anyone else?

I pull the motor instead. Just put a jack under the tranny to help pull and realign after. An easy day job even if you've never done it.

Pull the motor? Is that really easier? I don't think I have the proper equipment for that.

I hate going under cars. I'm the one in charge, I take the top. It's also safer.

evolutionmovement wrote:I pull the motor instead. Just put a jack under the tranny to help pull and realign after. An easy day job even if you've never done it.

LOL, I changed my transmission today.. well... er... pulled my bad one, got everything back ready to get it in assembly mode all in just three hours... BUUUT... Like three hours of swearing and trying to align the trans has netted me nothing.

So I'll have to reattempt it this next weekend..

I actually think it was a lot easier aligning things when I pulled my engine for a rebuild and the trans was left in.

Is there a trick or a way to do this easier, at my buddies shop I have...
-I've an engine bracket that holds it still
-I have a trans jack
-I have a hydraulic car lift

I've fought with a tranny for several hours too, laying under the car. Not fun at all.

I'd much rather pull the motor to do a clutch, but not all agree with me. I think it's much easier to align the motor to the trans than vice versa.

Pulling the motor is technically more stuff to do, but its mostly electricals and hoses, versus axles and things like that. Turbo motors can be more of a pain due to the downpipe being a stubborn bitch.

With as much shit as I have in my engine bay.....especially with the AWIC....it makes pulling the motor a much more daunting task.

I'm pulling my motor as we speak... and it's hanging up on the clutch release fork.

Is there a trick with this, or did I miss something? Does the clutch fork have to come out? The motor slides out so far, then the clutch fork hits the back of the opening on the top of the trans, I can't get it to disengage.

HELP!

Thanks...

You have to remove the pin that holds the clutch fork to get the motor out. There is a big hex plug that needs to be remove to get access to the pin. Once the plug is removed you can thread a bolt into the pin and pull it out.

Got it, thanks!. I was trying to stick a smaller Allen key into that inner hole... flashlight is dead.

yeah, that thing hangs up a lot of people

I've never pulled the transmission before, always the engine - it takes me 2 hours to do a pull and reinstall each (4 hours entire job) and I have an AWIC and all that mess that goes with it.

so your saying that the hex is ajust a plug and after thats off and cn jst oull the pin right out ?

my hex seems to have jammed up

gtlegacy wrote:so your saying that the hex is ajust a plug and after thats off and cn jst oull the pin right out ?

my hex seems to have jammed up

well, I believe that sometimes electralysis happens and the plug tries to bond chemically to the block, it doesn't come free easily.

Yup, it's basically a screw-in freeze plug... I think I used a chisel to make my tool. I cut a 2" shaft and put a socket on one end.

Clean the plug out to get the best bite and wire brush the edges of the plug. If it still sticks...

1. a little WD-40 over night...
2. use a propane torch to put a little heat on it *be safe, dont do anything silly* and let cool, when it cools, it'll have no prob turning.


And then use a small bolt 6mm/8mm? *i forget the size* to screw into the end of the pivot rod.

I'll pull out with very little effort.

cheers m8 also i have an hks clutch so when i put that in do i have it all bolted to engine and then when i put the gearbox on do i slide the fork down in the bearing/clip and slip pin through?

actually you'll install the throwout fork on the transmission first.

1. Slide throwout bearing on fork as you slide fork into place on transmission.
2. Insert rod *use a tiny bit of axle grease on pivot points.
3. Use a small coating of axle grease on contacting surfaces on rod. *where it rests in houseing for ease of disassembly later.*
4. Install rubber grommet.
5. Use a piece of wire to hold back fork to keep throwout bearing forward. *helps with alignment*
6. Slip trans in place, fingertighten bolts/nuts *swearing and yelling helps me*
7. Once trans is in place, remove wire and pull clutch fork away from engine, engaging throwout bearing for the nice CLICK sound.

best of luck!

The hex is 10mm... Put some anti-sieze on the threads when putting it back to make someone's life easier down the road...

ok right so the clip/bearing part is actually off the clutch at the time? and clicks in at the end?

Yes, you set up the throwout bearing on the fork and the shaft in the tranny before you put the motor back in. It won't actually click into the pressure plate until you pull back on the top of the fork... then it's connected to the pressure plate. It's fairly obvious looking at it, but just make sure the flange that engages the pres. plate is pointing towards the motor and not the tranny.

Clean & degrease everything well, apply a light coat of moly grease or whatever is supplied with the new clutch to all moving surfaces... mine was coated with years of old grease and grime; the pedal feel is much smoother now after cleaning the components.

Aerotech wrote: ...It won't actually click into the pressure plate until you pull back on the top of the fork...

Oh yeah, I was thinking of the direction the forked part actually travels.. oops I updated my response to be a bit more clear.

Aerotech wrote: ...then it's connected to the pressure plate. It's fairly obvious looking at it, but just make sure the flange that engages the pres. plate is pointing towards the motor and not the tranny.

Yup, agreed... if it were backwards, this would be NOISY and time consuming to undo... Though I dont know it it'd go together if reversed... it might though.

Aerotech wrote: Clean & degrease everything well, apply a light coat of moly grease or whatever is supplied with the new clutch to all moving surfaces... mine was coated with years of old grease and grime; the pedal feel is much smoother now after cleaning the components.

Yup, my first clutch job taught me that lightly lubed and clean provides much better performance... than heavily lubed and attracting all dust and gunking up!

ok i have have installed the clutch and the gearbox by sliding the fork down into the bearing it does not click at all i have installed my master5/8 and slave cylinder 3/4 and the pedal when fully bled feels very light but does pop back overpowering the spring on pedal the pedal doesnt seem to release the clutch at all the slave cylinder only seems to have around 15-20mm of travel

is an hks twin plate by the way