legacycentral bbs

*EDIT* I found that this bar contacts the cross member right at the UP bumpout. It might not work for all turbo-model owners, especailly if your car is lowered. Shorter end links may provide a proper clearance, but I'm not sure.
*EDIT* 8/30/08


I obtained a used 25mm Tribeca Front Sway Bar for $50 (including some "modified" tribeca 25mm ID bushings that fit the Legacy mounting brackets).

The bar usually goes for about $80 at the dealer, so it's cheap for anyone even if ya can't find a used one (suprised that I did actually!). Other folks have determined that this 25mm bar acts like a 22.5mm as the outer arms are a bit longer than most stock and aftermarket bars.

Anyway - I had the bar installed in 45min total. It fits right in, but has a different route around the tie-rod - it goes over instead of under like the stock bar. There are install tutorials around so I won't go into all that.

Performance - I've only driven it a bit now, but it has a much better turn-in and feels more confident in all cornering situations. Under most normal driving (straight line, or slow with traffic) you can't tell a difference, which is good. I suspect that speed bumps and worn cross-street dips will be more pronounced, but whatever.

I already had Whiteline end links F&R, as well as 2.5RS springs (1" drop and 10/15% stiffer), GR2's, and Grp N F top-hats. I also have TiC fender braces, a Cusco F strut bar, and rear sub-frame lock bolts to help hold the chassis together.

This BIG ass bar really compliments the other suyspension bits. I'll be adding an adjustable 20/22/24 RSB in the future to further refine things but this is GOOD for now.

PN: 20401XA00A at your local stealership.

-Chad

The Tribeca bar fits in the legacy turbo without removing anything? Lucky!!

I installed one on my Impreza Wagon and I had to drop the exhaust manifold.

I should have done this on my Legacy - it would have been much easier!

Yes, that link entails some of the tutorials I mentioned.


Another day, another $0.49 - Bar feels great. I'll keep checking for any interference issues, but so far all I can see is that the bar *just* hits the bottom of the strut housing when the front is completely unloaded (jacked up) and the wheel cranked to lock.

I guess I should state that this is on a '93 SS, running 6-spoke RS wheels (16x7) and 205/50/16 tires (failed to mention that earlier)

I just put one on my car yesterday. ('91 SS) I got it and the bushings from subarupartsforyou.com for $59 for the bar, and $12 ea for the bushings.
I'm running aluminum front control arms; the sway bar mount points are wider than stock SS, so this bar actually lines right up, directly above the mounts. I'm looking at either Whiteline links, or re-using my Perrins, which are about 1/2" shorter.
I modified the metal clamp instead of the rubber bushing; if you grind off the 4 little grabber claws on the edges of the clamp, which serve to keep the small stock bushings in place, you get a clamp that fits the new Tribeca bushings perfectly, the big shoulders on the bushing keep it in place.
No driving impressions yet, motor is out of the car.

Ok, well after jacking the car up again for inspection last night I see that the bar hits the cross member where it bumps out for the UP. (like someone mentioned in the link above )

It seemed like it just hit, so I started making a small depression in the cross member with my die grinder. Made a few passes at it (jack car,disassemble, grind, reassmeble, drop car) and then stopped as I don't want to go to far with the grinder.

Anyway it still touches the member. It drives fine as far as I can tell, but I wouldn't want continue to drive it that way.

I'll be pulling it out this PM, then shopping for some Whitelines - I REALLY liked how it improved the car. Ill sell this bar off over on the RS forums or something, no big deal.

-Chad

Hopefully your AL control arms make it all work out for you Aerotech... I think that shorter links would also pull it into the right alignment plane (I already have WL links (wire type) and don't want to have to get new ones)

what's your SN on rs25? I'll keep an eye open for the bar. I could always use another for the other car.

I put the Perrin on the right side, the bar clears the crossmember by about 0.40". I only have one, though, I broke the other link, so I may try a Whiteline wire link on the driver's side.
Does anyone know if mismatched endlinks will screw up the handling? End result would be a higher roll resistance on one side of the car...

So it does work! Too bad it just nicks the crossmember. Ooo well. I dont care. ill just grind abit in there to make it not hit. Great info farfrumwork and ultrasonic.

I just scored the sway bare with poly bushing for $50 now i just need some end links!

Make sure you use good hardware. I used 8.8 metric bolts, and after about 6 months, three of the mount points had broken a bolt. I went with grade 10 bolts, all good so far.

Thanks for the heads up! I really dont want to be fixing a issue that could have been avoided.