legacycentral bbs

92 Legacy Wagon, 2.2L AWD.

I've only dealt with Gm and Ford FWD hub applications in the past. Typically replacement of the hub is usually removing brake hardware, and then unbolting hub and removing (sometimes with a little force if necessary).

I just have your standard Haynes repair manual for the Subaru. It really mentions nothing about rear hub replacement except on 2wd models. They go into deal about needing to pull the knuckle so the Hub could be pressed off the knuckle assembly..

However since we're dealing with an AWD assembly, wouldn't the rear hub assemblies be similiar to that of typical hub setups? Just unbolt it and pull it off? OR is the setup different. Is the hub assembly non-replaceable and do you just get new bearings for it?

I have what is sounding more and more like bad wheel bearings. Since the lug studs are getting pretty bad, and for the price it's easier for me to just swap out the entire hub. Thanks for any insight.


Matt

Nevermind, I found a write up on nasioc on hubs. apparently not as easy as GM hubs

If you do g for it, I recommend getting a new bolt for the lateral links to the hub. Its $21 and worth the cost when it comes to getting it off, which is usually a pita, and you save a ton of time if you don't care about wrecking the bolt.

I'll have a look at it today. It's weird the noise is only apparent a lower speeds, and it's more of a metal/metal scraping than the moaning/grinding from wheel bearings. As you go faster the noise doesn't really get louder, but is still apparent. I'll have to test the play in the wheels. Maybe since the car is covered in 8billion inches of mud and dirt, it's possible there's something rubbing on the brakes..

Check the dust cover.

dust cover was smoked from rust. what was left of it was removed. Most of the metal to metal contact is from the brakes having no pad material left on them. Luckily the caliper is fine, so that's one less thing to worry about it.

The moaning noise is still their with the brake removed. it's toward the knuckle so I don't think it's the rear diff.

The wheels on all four corners were tight. It's only that back pass side. I did notice there was no metal band on that outermost CV boot closest the knuckle and it had fresh oil on it.

Is it possible the CV joint inside the shaft is bad making the noise? or do they make different noises?

It could be your wheel bearing. I let one go a long time on my 91 SS, eventually it would make a grinding sound on corners that would unload that wheel. A serious, low pitched, scraping and/or grinding sound. Very ugly. Cured by wheel bearing replacement.

Anyone have a diagram of the rear hub/bearing assembly so I know how many seals I'm needing to order? Autozone lists innner, outer, and intermediate. Looking to tackle this on saturday..

Rear wheel bearing parts:
28015AA090 outer seal, at hub
28015AA100 inner seal #1, middle
28015AA110 inner seal #2, inboard
28016AA030 bearing

You may also need:
20540AA090 Lateral Link bolt

If things are so frozen up that you need the bolt, you'll probably kill the outer lateral link bushings, too:
20251AA000, you'll need two.
Although you might consider using the STi Group N stiffer rubber bushings, which are B0220FE020, I believe. And, they're about half the price!

thanks

According to service records 2 yrs ago the air ride suspension was replaced with standard suspension. I'm not sure what all had to be replaced besides springs and struts, but the final cost was $2K to the previous owner. Everything so far as come undone bolt wise. I'll just hit it with the PB blaster and torch before proceeding

$2k for struts and springs? I mean sure, you need to remove a bunch of other stuff, but damn.

93forestpearl wrote:$2k for struts and springs? I mean sure, you need to remove a bunch of other stuff, but damn.

well I'm not sure of what all was replaced, but it used to have air suspension on it. Whatever was needed to convert it to non air ride suspension besides just springs and struts was in that $2k cost.

So I have no idea what else was replaced, but a lot of the suspension on the car is really tight, and some of it isn't that rusted.

Wheel bearing was toast. Got the CV shaft out and it was whisper quiet and free moving. The hub sounded gritty while moving it around.

The bolt I had the most trouble with was the lateral bolt. I was able to eventually free it without destroying the bushings. Outer edges of the bushings rubber was a little worn, but the rest was fine, so I left them.

I realized the plug in for the rear ABS sensor was under the seat a little too late as the sensor wouldn't come out of the hub, so it got destroyed trying to remove it. I'll have to get a new one, but no big deal.

Got a nice 12 ton press at a local place similiar to harbor freight. Had no issues pressing anything apart. The bearing assembly had pieces of steel chipped off the outer edge, and the bearings looked horrible. Hub shaft was nice and clean so that didn't require replacement.

Got it all pressed in and put back together. Should alignment be unaffected since I just removed the knuckle from the arms? I marked the positions of all the nuts and bolts (not sure why they said to do that) and put them back according in the same spot they came out. Book listed a range of tq specs, so I pretty much went 109 ftlbs on the strut to knuckle bolts, 90 on the trailering arm bolt, then 110 on the lateral bolt.


Matt

The alignment should be close....it still probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have it checked though.

Thanks i'll have to put it on my list of things to keep an eye on. Got a great place down the street that actually does a full alignment, no toe"N"Go bs.