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Knock Sensor Replacement
Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 6:54 pm
by 1991legacyturbo
What are the procedures for replacing the knock sensor? i am also getting a code for a "can purge thing"???? how and where do i get one of those?
Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 7:25 pm
by Buffman
knock senor is pretty straightforward. Not sure if on the turbo models they are in the same location but on my N/A it's on the back of the block driver's side by the intake manifold. IIRC 12mm bolt holds it on

Super easy.
Re: Knock Sensor Replacement
Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 11:19 pm
by ciper
1991legacyturbo wrote:What are the procedures for replacing the knock sensor?
Unplug old sensor
Unbolt old sensor
*Optional - use sandpaper to clean mating surfaces
Bolt new sensor on
Plug senor in
Drive away.
Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 7:58 am
by altron23
all subaru knock sensors are in the exact same place so far, super easy to do, easiest 1hr to get at work when flat rate!
Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 6:29 pm
by 1991legacyturbo
hey thanks guys. do i have to drain my coolant to do this?
drain coolant? NO.
Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:13 pm
by kleinkid
The knock sensor has nothing to do with coolant. It simply bolts to a threaded, dead end, hole in the block. Make sure you are getting ready to remove the knock sensor and not the coolant temp sensor.
Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:28 pm
by Buffman
some engines have the knock sensors thread into the block into a coolant passage. it's that way on my LT1. Maybe he assumed that was the case.
Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 11:47 pm
by 1991legacyturbo
ok thanks guys. the reason i thought you had to drain the coolant was because my hanes manual said something about draining the system.
The purge cannister solenoid??? where do i find these and how hard are they to replace?
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 7:02 am
by 93Leg-c
When replacing the knock sensor, the fsm says to install the sensor with the wire going out at a 45* angle. This means if the passenger compartment is 12 o'clock and toward the radiator is 6 o'clock, the wiring coming out of the installed sensor should be at the 10:30 position.
I don't know the technicals as to why the fsm says that but here's what happened to me: I installed a new OEM knock sensor with the wire coming out at the 2:00 position because it was easier to connect the male and female plugs together. But my engine kept pinging and sometimes knocking. I read the fsm and followed the instructions for the 45* angle wire placement and the pinging and knocking went away.
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 1:05 pm
by kimokalihi
Took me all of 2 minutes...maybe 1.
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 2:46 pm
by Bosco
The cansiter purge solenoid is tricky to get to. if you know where it is, you can try to get at it.
I, along with a few others, have just left the bad one in place and plugged the 2 vacum lines and the wiring clip in to another sensor and found a place to put it. It can be a real pain to get to in it's stock location. (Under the intake runner behind the PS pump)
Replace it, and reset the ecu (possibly not necessary).
if you do a search, you will find a thread entitled "canister purge solenoid - fixing the problem" it has a nice picture of what it looks like if you're unsure.
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 1:50 am
by codfizzle
I was getting the same code, and you know what the problem was? My gas cap vent was plugged. It was building up too much back-pressure in the fuel system and throwing a code 35. As soon as I would take the gas cap off and release the pressure, the CEL would turn off.