legacycentral bbs

i've pulled the fuse in the engine bay
i've disconnected the battery and left it for 3hr pushed on brakes.
everything i have read i have tried
i've taken out the fuse and i still get the same stored codes i've found since i've owned this car, please help


the one i need more info on is the test mode way but when i plougged both in i got wierd noises from the engine bay

First make sure that you don't have any 'battery' type devices that might be keeping your ECU memory alive.

If you don't, and you've done what you describe above, then I would think that your codes are not stored, but 'live'. That is, they are being detected and stored as soon as the key is turned.

they come on right away without even turning the engine over, i think it was 2 different fuel injectors, maf sensor and iac sensor, i've never had the light come on when driving.

when i connect the green and black connectors i get a weird noise for about 5 seconds and i'm afraid of fing my ecu so i don't take it any further than that, is this what it is supposed to do? or am i doing something wrong? i went by the directions on surrealimage.com

PhyrraM wrote:First make sure that you don't have any 'battery' type devices that might be keeping your ECU memory alive.

If you don't, and you've done what you describe above, then I would think that your codes are not stored, but 'live'. That is, they are being detected and stored as soon as the key is turned.

would an amp keep it alive?

Certain types of amps could. The capacitors hold a charge and might not be disconnected on power-off.

makes sense as my battery is connected to the positve cable on the battery in the trunk, i'll give it a shot.

thanks

I tried the battery thing on my beater wagon and no reset either. There is no way in hell my wagon would run as good as it does if the maf, tps, iac, purge, an injector, crank angle sensor, and cam angle sensor were all bad.

what if i unplug the ecu completely? could that work

That usually works for me, try at least 20 minutes.