Control arm bushings important?

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 9:48 pm

Hey guys. My car has 320+k km. Now I replaced the struts with wrx struts and springs all around. Funny thing though is, still hits bumps pretty rough yet almost exactly the same as the old suspension! Does handle much nicer though that is for sure. I also noticed I hear some play when I turn etc. I think that has more to do with the fact that I put smaller wrx springs in oversized original perches which aren't holding the springs properly really. I am guessing I should address getting new spring perches ASAP. Also noticed my sway bar bushings look really bad in the front crap loads of play. Anything else I should be considering?

n2x4 · Post by **n2x4** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 9:58 pm

The springs shouldn't cause play in the steering. I suggest to have someone wiggle the wheel back and forth while you're under the car watching. Could be tie rods. Does it sound like a clunk?

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 11:02 pm

n2x4 wrote:The springs shouldn't cause play in the steering. I suggest to have someone wiggle the wheel back and forth while you're under the car watching. Could be tie rods. Does it sound like a clunk?

Yes sort of. Did not have this problem before. Actually I replaced the ball joint (OEM) on the driver side, but was unsuccessful on the passenger side and snapped the bolt so I had left it the way it is for a week or so plan on digging into it this weekend though. Either way doesnt sound like it is coming from the passenger side. It is more of a thing where if I hit the gas and turn or hit certain kinds of fine bumps.

n2x4 · Post by **n2x4** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 4:13 am

With the car on the ground, can you reach into the wheel well and move the spring? The weight of the car should keep it in place.

Maybe the spring is in wrong. I've installed Perrin WRX springs which are significantly shorter than stock and they held fast.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 4:59 am

n2x4 wrote:With the car on the ground, can you reach into the wheel well and move the spring? The weight of the car should keep it in place.

Maybe the spring is in wrong. I've installed Perrin WRX springs which are significantly shorter than stock and they held fast.

Well this is what I am looking at doing atm. Sway bar bracket and bushings for sure. Got a screw remover kit to get out the snapped bolt. Also bought the two correct upper perches. How difficult is it to replace the bushings in the control arm? When you remove the hub via the balljoint shouldn't the arm swing easy? It basically doesn't move much at all.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 4:56 am

Anyone? Should the control arm swing pretty easy? This suspension feels pretty much EXACTLY like my old worn out one with the same harshness when I hit bumps. I very much doubt a impreza feels like this. Anything I should look at?

Post by **Legacy777** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 8:30 pm

The control arm doesn't move up and down very freely with the strut off.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 3:45 am

Ok that was all I wanted to know really lol. Thanks. Now I need to get ontop of replacing one ball joint, and installing the correct size perch still. Maybe Both these items are resulting in this issue? Or maybe even the tires are really crappy?

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 4:09 am

Well got the correct spring perches in place. STILL makes the damn bang noise, but the suspension feels pretty good. Hopefully it is not the new ball joint! It is a OEM subaru ball joint. Is it possible it is defective and how would I even go about with warrenty at this point.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:15 pm

Forgot to add. It only does it when I am making a right turn and accelerating at the same time. In a straight line no problems. No real problems when I am not on the gas.

sublunacy · Post by **sublunacy** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:13 am

Bushings and top hats is what im thinking keep us posted

n2x4 · Post by **n2x4** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 4:11 pm

ericem wrote:Forgot to add. It only does it when I am making a right turn and accelerating at the same time. In a straight line no problems. No real problems when I am not on the gas.

Are bumps involved? If not, it might be a driveline issue (checked your axles??)

Strut topmounts or loose bolts like for the swaybar would be other things I'd check.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 5:03 pm

I did just replace both front CV's, but it does do it on bumps depends. it actually will pop in either a left or right turn. It's a bit cold so inconvient to investigate with popping in another ball joint.

sublunacy · Post by **sublunacy** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 10:01 pm

Inner and outer tie rods, and steering rack bushings?
Someone else will have to chime in to diagnos a problem with the rack itself. Off the top of my head I think they last a long long time.
The best thing to do probably is let a smart mechanic put it on the lift and drive it, so the problem can be Found. If you ask the right way you can get it checked for free. No obligation. Have you tried that?

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 2:43 am

ha at the dealership?

wfoote · Post by **wfoote** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 1:43 am

I would try a tire store. Let them know about the problem and they should be able to diagnose and give you an estimate. You can then have them repair it or You can then say thanks, let me think about it. Or you can both win if you say you would like to change the parts but will be back for an alignment.

good luck

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 1:56 am

I am thinking about buying a whole car now with lower mileage lol. Just older, but working like it should. Going to take a look at it. It is a 90 legacy LS wagon, but in that rare blue colour. It is $700. I figure I can offer $500-600.

n2x4 · Post by **n2x4** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:08 am

Don't give in and go to the dealership!

You know you enjoy troubleshooting noises on a forum wayyyy more than asking some other guy to figure it out for you!

I had a "clunk" when I went over bumps in my car and it turned out to be a loose front control arm bolt....

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 4:06 am

I am betting it must be the ball joint I replaced. Maybe it is loose? I should check over everything. Difficult to trouble shoot since I replaced the struts, and ball joint at once. Definitely agree though nothing beats figuring out the problem yourself!

n2x4 · Post by **n2x4** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 4:18 am

ericem wrote:I am betting it must be the ball joint I replaced. Maybe it is loose?

I have a hard time picturing a ball joint being loose. And where do you wonder if it's loose? Where it bolts to the control arm? If you got the cotter pin in place for the castle nut, I highly doubt it's loose. Ball joints are not easy to swap, in my case they've either been completely in, or completely out.

Or thrown completely across the garage floor

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 4:21 am

I mean't either loose at the hub or control arm ya. Doubt the control arm, but the hub side you never know. Maybe I am just hearing the popping noise on the passenger side which I still need to replace, but it's echoing on the driver side possibly? I don't even have a bolt at the end of the thread on the passenger side since it snapped, the bolt is just floating in there, maybe that's the problem? haha!

mexicanzero · Post by **mexicanzero** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 4:44 pm

what i do when i'm trying to figure out which side a clunk comes from is i either go over a speed bump or a small curb or something elevated on an angle so one wheel hits at a time so that way if when the r/f wheel goes over and you hear the clunk you'll know its the passenger balljoint most likely.

i've also seen cases of a broken bolt causing a creak or clunk even if theres still like 4 or 5 bolts holding the thing on.
if your swaybar bushings and endlinks look old replace them. they are often a cause of clunks while turning and they're fairly cheap anyways so theres no reason not to.

i'd start with sorting out the balljoint then changing the swaybar bushings and endlinks then go over every bolt you touched while doing the suspension swap to make sure theyre nice and tight and then if the sound is still there try and recreate when it happens while going over a speed bump or small curb to see which corner of the car its coming from.

-Alex

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:01 pm

Just an update. Installed the bushings made the steering more responsive and maybe the ride better and quieter. However still popping. So I replaced the axles and now one of the used axles have a bit of a pop to it when turning and sometimes when stopping in D.

So the car still seems like it's wandering. Keep in mind the car is on 17's with run flats. Next thing on the list is steering rack bushings, sway bar front, and possibly questioning the top hats as they are original and I do not drive the car lightly lets just say also plan to put in the h & r springs. Already put new gr2's year ago.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Sun Aug 22, 2010 1:36 am

lol found the popping sound forgot to tighten the nut on the back of the control arm. I went to the extent of replacing the sway bar, ball joint, axle.... when all it required was a few seconds with a adjustable.....

If there is something I have learned with my subaru. Make sure your damn bolts and nuts are tight. While ago, whenever I took off something was making banging sounds or when I would turn again! Guess what....... motor mounts loose!

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Control arm bushings important?

Control arm bushings important?

Re: Control arm bushings important?

Re: Control arm bushings important?