legacycentral bbs

what is the best thing i can do with the small hose that normally goes to the top of the radatior?? it seems to run different if i plug it..

Are you using the turbo engine's coolant expansion tank?

If so you need to run that line into the overflow tube on your n/a radiator, and then run the overflow from the turbo engine's coolant tank to your overflow.

If you do that, you need to remove the lower rubber gasket on the radiator's radiator cap to allow the coolant to pass by the cap.

i couldnt fit the stock overflow tank but i found a nice little bottle that should work fine.. i made the small tube and the motor overflow and the radiator overflow go to it.. plus one overflow tube for the tank.. (4 tubes) motor and radiator tubes down to the bottom other two at the top.. this not work???
and just so i understand, do you mean i should put the small tube on the overflow coming out of the radiator?? does that small tube need some pressure or something?? could this small tube have anything to do with my car stalling? it just wont let me floor it.. thanks!

ok.. yea... im a dork and thats a dumb question...

every time i would mess with that small hose i must have been bumping into the stock boost controller plug witch had a bad connection so every now and then it would suddenly stall ..

Ok.....did you figure out your problem?

I didn't quite follow your post above.

yes.. as far as the small hose for the rad.. however, im not to sure why i keep having a stalling problem.. sometimes when it happens i can turn it off and on and it goes away.. boost controller going bad?

Are there any codes stored in the ECU?

so after messing around with it for awhile ive got code 14 16 45 49 ..SOB rite.. but it runs good sounds good.. i think 16 is because ive pulled off injector 3 and swaped it for injector 1.. after having a cert tech check with volt meters i seem to have blown the pulse to injector 1... all the other injectors seem to be working fine.. and its getting spark so does this mean ive screwed my computer??

Reset the codes then see which ones come back. It would run like crap if one of the injectors wasn't firing.

thats what i would be thinking too!! but any other time in my life working on cars of any type if i was to pull off a spark plug wire the motor would change at idle... rite ?? if i pull plug one right at the coil nothing happens!! it just contiues to idle.. spark shooting from the coil.. and if i take #3 injector plug and swap it with #1 you can hear the difference.. if that makes sence.. i keep tring to reset the ecu... what is the best way??

i should video it..
it runs good but dont make any difference if i have the #1 injector disconnected ..

Is it just the one cylinder that doesn't have any effect when disconnected? If so it's obviously not firing in the first place.

Reset the codes then see which ones come back. It would run like crap if one of the injectors wasn't firing.

I thought the ECU codes are only present when there's a problem? I thought that they go away as soon as the problem is fixed.

yes.. just #1

When the computer detects a problem it stores the code and illuminates the MIL lamp. If the computer later no longer detects the issue it will turn the light off but the code will remain stored in the system for a period of time. I'm not sure how long. GM vehicles used to be something like 30 starts and stops of the engine where the particular code did not come back. The best way to think about it is as history codes and current codes. When you connect the black wires you are pulling the history codes. If you drive around with both the green and black connectors connected and a code is tripped the computer will flash the current codes.

So I would recommended resetting your codes and seeing what you get back. Or drive around with the green and black wires connected and it should flash the current codes.

Here are instructions for resetting the codes:

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Also, you can ohm out the injector. It should be something like 12 ohms. I suspect you will have an open circuit if it is failing.

yea i think he was using an ohm meter when he tested it..

but i borrowed hanas ecu and now the cylinder is deffintly getting gas!

the ecu must store codes for quite awhile because i was getting some that would only make sence if it were installed in hana..

however still having a problem.. pulling VSS code and the ecu goes into LIMP MODE (safety mode) anything to do with VSS ???

i know i should have a VSS and im tring to find a good one.. isnt their a pulse sending unit i can get?

cant remember all the other codes at the moment

also getting code 51