legacycentral bbs

Hey all,
I flushed my tranny 3 times via draining the tranny pan, filling it up, running it about 4 minutes.
After i was done i had no noticable improvement in my situation. I located a new transmission for my car only to find that it wouldnt work (4.11 gears), so I called my local dealership to ask their thoughts. They told me a tranny flush. I informed them of what i did and he said that its still probably the problem. The thing is that they want to charge me 160 for their tranny flush without any guarantee that its going to fix the problem. He said its not the solenoid, because that would cause a light to come on in the car. He said if it wasnt that it would be the tailshaft housing (which he quoted "around 400"

Does anyone have any thoughts as to this? I would greatly appreciate it.
Tim

if there's a solenoid fault the power light will blink on startup. I can't remember if it was 14 blinks or 16 or 17 blinks. There's instructions on here how to pull active trans codes.

The best way to FLUSH the trans would be to drop the output line from the cooler or filter up front into a bucket. Have an assistant start the car while you pour fresh trans fluid down the dipstick tube. It's no power flush, but a lot safer IMO

When you changed your fluid how bad was it? Pretty red?

level was good, but it was blood red. (as opposed to the nice clear red)

well color can be subjective. some ATF brands turn brown. As long as it smells good and isn't black or have streaks of black in it, it's usually good.

I called the dealership a few months ago and they wanted $200 to flush the tranny. I paid $175 plus core for that tranny. So I said screw it. I didn't have any problems with the tranny or I would have done it. Just thought it would be nice to flush my tranny to prolong it's life.

If you get the tranny with different gear ratio just replace the rear diff with the same gear ratio. That's what I had to do when I replaced my 4EAT. I got a tranny out of a 94 and put it in my 90 and then found out the gear ratio was different so I went back to the junkyard and grabbed the rear diff. Worked great.

Sometimes power flushes can dislodge gunk and get them stuck in the valve body. Another flush might dislodge it further, or it may not. So the only fix would be to rebuild the valve body.....and/or rebuild the trans.

Use the FWD fuse under the hood to confirm it's the rear clutches. If the TB goes away it's the Clutch pack in the rear tranfer housing. If it was the solenoid, the FWD fuse would have no affect. You can be getting a Duty code because the valve is sticking, or not responding as it should do to internal issues.

REF:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/sho ... hp?t=81062


Here's a link to repairing the rear clutches:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/sho ... 467&page=6

I repaired the one out of my old 4.11 tranny and put it in my 3.9 turbo 4EAT to minimize down time. I put in a new Duty C solenoid @ the same time...took about 4 hours.

The TB went away and AWD works great, but I have a separate electrical issue I'm dealing with.

How many miles? I've had 2 Subes w/TB and both were in the 120K+ range, so depending on its maintenance history yours may be due.
Good luck