legacycentral bbs

my question is just that. apparently my car was running rich so i pulled back some fuel and now the car wont even run.

OK, first of all, I'm assuming you have a wideband that you can read while you are tuning, and also log when get to doing pulls. If not, get one now.



When I first got mine running two years ago, it fired off and ran at 9.5:1. It ran poorly, but it ran. I immediately pulled fuel back using the master so it was in the low 14:1 region. After letting it warm up (fresh engine) I was able to find the sweet spot as the cams I had in there did not like a 14.7:1 idle in the cold.

If the engine is cold, you will need much more fuel to get it to pop off, especially in the winter. I'm talking as low at 4-5:1. My cranking enrichment is in the neighborhood of 350%, plus the warm-up, etc. You should be able to crank a little bit, and if it sputters a littel while trying to start, add a little more fuel, rinse repeat.


Once it starts, mess with it while it warms up to maintain a smooth idle and slowly taper teh warm-up idle speed down as it warms up. Mine goes to a normal idle at about 150° F. This is at your own discression.


I found my idle was best at around 16° of advance in the 7-800 rpm range. Yours can and will vary.


I'm not going to get into power tuning here, as there are plenty of resources availible for you to read. The book from Motorbooks Workshop comes to mind.

nice thank you for the info ill give it my best shot. i understand that a car will need a shit ton of fuel to run when cold i just wasn't thinking of it when i was messing around with the map.


i understand your reason for not wanting to talk about performance tunning. i wouldnt even try it, that i will leave up to the professionals.

looks like ill give it a shot tomorrow.

Keep us posted on how it goes! Good luck!!

ok well, i gave it a shot and still nothing. but there was one thing that i did notice. the ecu is not getting the trigger signals. i dont know what ther triggers are but i do remember that they are very important in order for the ecu to run the motor correctly.


whats the definition of the triggers?

iirc the triggers are the mechanism that senses engine speed/piston location and helps allow the ecu to co-ordinate when to squirt and when to spark

consider this a bump only, we're looking for a wiser voice on this one

So it sounds like you aren't getting any crank or cam angle signal...providing that is how the Link deduces the location of the crank or cam...


Sounds like you need to check your sensors and associated wiring

ya i found out what the triggers are. i unplugged the ecu again and toke it apart and i didnt find any burnt parts on the board so i hope its ok. it might just be the wiring. ill have to check it out tomorrow.

Not knowing your exact setup, but is it possible that you need to swap your crank and cam sensors?

You would if your running a non-turbo harness/car with a turbo ECU (EJ20G/EJ22T)

Yup, triggers refers to the crank and cam angle sensors. WIthout them, you won't get any spark. Also, be wary of what triggers you have the Link looking for. The old and new style are even close to the same pattern.

the only major difference in the motor is just the 22 block with 20g heads. i dont know what the trigger's are set for, my friend did it and i cant get ahold of him. so im taking the car down to VIP Performance. cause Rali-Tek isn't aloud to "tune" anything other then Cobb engine management. witch is a bunch of bull.


im getting its damn car driving again.