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Well,

Here I am again at this point.

I have found a 91 Turbo - 300,000Kms, and has not perhaps had a great life.

It is currently being used as a daily driver beater.

Now the owner says it will need brakes, and body work, I have not seen it yet.

price is right..

What should I look for?

With so many miles it may be better just to buy it as parts and find another vehicle to transplant it into

That was my thought.

I went to see it.

It has a few rust issues, all repairable, otherwise it seems really good.

So - I bought it.

Anyone need a BF?

Are you going to keep it to drive? Where are the rust problems. I'm doing some body work on my 91 Turbo. If you need any advice let me know, as I've found out every spot where these puppies rust

Mark,

Mark,

Thanks for the encouragement - Always wanted the SS, always had the boring wagon, Just kidding, I like the wagon.

Rust is in front of the rear wheels, in that area that crap collects, and has the cover over it, and a little rocker panel rust.

I am happy to see how well it drives, handles etc for 300K,K must have been looked after by somebody.

It has an oil leak, that seems to put oil onto the exhaust on the turbo side, probably common valve cover? - Stinky to drive.

I am going to keep it an drive it - with 300K, kms, no loss driving it.

Where do they rust the most.

Yeah, it is the "best" the 91!

The 91 turbo that I'm driving has 177,000 miles on it!! Still drives like it's new!!




Only faster

Cool!

Soon I will have all those n00b questions like - what is the best first mod???

what is the best first mod???

To save you the trouble in asking: intercooler!!

Have fun building it up!!

They rust the most where you stated, bottom of the front end of the rear wheel well, were all the sheets of metal join up, and rear rocker panel area. Also behind the rear bumper at the corner of the rear wheel well. along with the usual front fender rust at the bottom and front corners, where the bumper bolts up to. Also If you take off the window mouldings, check around all the clips. Oh ya If you want to you can open the trunk and check each of the depressions in the chassis on the sides of the spare tire area (you have to take out the plastic tool tray). finally unclip the little mushroom clips and move over the trunk liners. With these moved over you can see deep into the chassis above the wheel wells and check for any rust where the sheet metal was rolled to form the circumference of the wheel wells. Typically these cars have more serious rust problems in the rear They don't really rust much in the front other then the fenders which are easily replacable. And get the thing rustproofed well. Rust is a serious bitch. Once it starts and isn't treated it'll grove from the tinyest scratch and in time can become a serious rust-out problem. If you have anymore questions just ask

Mark,

If it's burning oil in the engine bay, check the valve cover gaskets. they're easier to change than they look. about 1.5 beers worth of time. I had no problem changing them out, and now she burns zero oil from the engine bay.

Obviously, check all the CV joints. check the steering rack boots while you're under there. The CV joints take at least 6 beers to fix. especially if you don't have a gear puller at the beginning.

Check for rust under the mudflaps where they cover up metal. My car has no visible rust, and the underside is fine tanks to a helthy coating of crap (condensed oil smoke mixed with sand and other unidentifiable materials). But the metal obscured by the mudflaps is rusted to poop since the original owners seemingly never washed that area out during winters.

If it's an auto make sure all the gears grip nice n strong. Some lag can be expected when upshifting and downshifting when the tranny is still cold. it takes 10-20 minutes for it to really warm up when it's cold out. The cooling for these autotrannys isn't quite sufficient, so they can get a little too hot when it's warm out. Smell the fluid to see if it's been cooked.

That's all that I can think of.

Thanks everyone, I will be getting it in about one month, and am already looking forward to the 1/2/3 beers maintenance schedule....

Ya.. I've got that oil leak!! And it REAKS!! Not much oil being lost, but it all hits the exhaust manifolds and burns in the engine bay... I'm driving around with the window open even in this weather. And it's cold up here! -20 celcius daytime high, and around -35 with windchill. I should prolly get on changing that.

Hey andrew... I know a guy locally that makes a killer downpipe for these things... if you want to hear/drive in mine I'd be more then happy to hook you up.

inzomniac wrote:Not much oil being lost

Are you sure? My car, at least, seems to leaks large quantities of oil from seemingly tiny leaks. My valve covers leaked a quart evry 3000 before I replaced the gaskets, and something as simple as a missing crush washer on the drain plug can leak that much...

I still havent degreased my engine yet, got it all over exhaust manifold and even crossmember...

Gary,

You are on..

Hey Gary,

Who makes the downpipes your referring to? How mucho?

Mark,

Well,

Now I have it and it needs an entire exhaust to safety - so my cheap pickup is not so cheap...

even needs an up pipe - the flex thingy between the manifold and the turbo??? well and cv boots and v-cover gaskets and so on and so on..

Help anyone - What can I use that is compatible...