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read that it should be 600 to 800. mine when started usaully is at 2000 sometimes 3000 then it slowly climbs down to about 1000. i have used the cables near the TB to adjust the idil( i can never remember how to spell this word for some reason). these would be the throttle cables i sure. but maybe im doing it wrong.

if the idle is too high there is something else wrong... bad IAC, vacumn leak (bad, broken, or loose hose), O2 sensor... something. the Subie's aren't like a carbuerated engine where you just back the idle down.

My wagon did something similar but the lowest idle was about 1400 indicated. I replaced the IAC with a used one from the pull a part, and everything went back to normal...

SILINC3R wrote:read that it should be 600 to 800. mine when started usaully is at 2000 sometimes 3000 then it slowly climbs down to about 1000....

Mine has always done this when cold. Cold starts out around 2,000 rpm and as the engine warms up, it slowly goes down to ~600 rpm.

This is wrong?

BSOD2600 wrote:

SILINC3R wrote:read that it should be 600 to 800. mine when started usaully is at 2000 sometimes 3000 then it slowly climbs down to about 1000....

Mine has always done this when cold. Cold starts out around 2,000 rpm and as the engine warms up, it slowly goes down to ~600 rpm.

This is wrong?

This is not wrong, every car i have ever started when cold the engine will rev up until the engine warms up a bit, don't worry about it

Okay, I was reading it as the idle was staying high, up around 1000 after it warmed up and he was trying to get it back down into the 600-800 rpm range.

I just know that when my IAC started to fail the warm idle gradually crept up until it wouldn't go under 1400 rpm. took about 2 months for it to get to that point.

If it's around 800 then yes, leave it alone... if it's higher DO NOT try to adjust it down using the cables or the idle stop screw on the TPS.

tahiti350 wrote:Okay, I was reading it as the idle was staying high, up around 1000 after it warmed up and he was trying to get it back down into the 600-800 rpm range.

I just know that when my IAC started to fail the warm idle gradually crept up until it wouldn't go under 1400 rpm. took about 2 months for it to get to that point.

If it's around 800 then yes, leave it alone... if it's higher DO NOT try to adjust it down using the cables or the idle stop screw on the TPS.

where is the IAC. what does it do and how much to replace.

also what is wrong if i mess with the idle screw cause im sure i messed with it a little. not much though

The IAC is on the right side of the throttle body (left side when you are standing in front of the car). The IAC "Idle Air Controller" is basically almost like a choke for a fuel injection vehicle. It allows more or less air to bypass the throttle body to increase RPMs to help warm up the engine. As for how much to replace, I can't help you on that one, sorry.

I got mine at the wrecking yard for $5...

Also the idle set screws are set at the factory, and the computer uses that setting as a baseline. The computer varies the IAC postion to add or subtract air to regulate the idle speed. if the IAC is failing it may either go full closed or most likely full open, which raises the idle and affects drivability.

altering the idle screw confuses the computer... Don't ask me how I know this....

ok i think this is the IAC

http://www.autozone.com/R,4010468/vehic ... Detail.htm

SILINC3R wrote:ok i think this is the IAC

http://www.autozone.com/R,4010468/vehic ... Detail.htm

Yup, that is the IAC

dang... looks like i might needa trip to the old junk yard