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it looks like as long as I use hoses from an STi, the stock radiator from an STi would work on a Legacy SS. Anyone ever tried this?

FWIW, there may be some little stuff that would need a place (like the overflow bottle), but that's easy with some zipties

were you able to try this?

yea i have been wondering about getting a 2004 wrx radiator and putting it in my car. or maybe a 2004 legacy nonturbo since mine doesnt have a turbo and see if that would work

CXRacing Aluminum Radiator 92-00 Impreza WRX STI GC8 MT

Got that one in my car without changing anything. The only problem I had with the install is the brackets that hold it at the top were angled up slightly. Also I don't have a condenser anymore so I don't know how much that will effect that. I'll come back with some pictures.

back with pics. This is with modding nothing. I'll eventually cut some metal to get the brackets to sit right.

Looks like an ok alternative. But I think for the extra 30 I might go for a koyo that fits perfectly.

biggreen96 wrote:Looks like an ok alternative. But I think for the extra 30 I might go for a koyo that fits perfectly.

Where did you find one for $200?

well any of these work with a N/A FWD. i really want a new bigger rad

SILINC3R wrote:well any of these work with a N/A FWD. i really want a new bigger rad

Why do you want a bigger radiator?

looks nicer and holds more fluid for better cooling

The stock cooling system is plenty robust.

I'm running an n/a radiator with a turbo motor in TX. No problems.

You don't need a bigger radiator. You want to run your engine as hot as it can handle before things start to warp or you run into problems. The more heat that you remove from the engine, the more power you remove from it. Heat is energy that you're removing from the engine and energy is power.

kimokalihi wrote:You don't need a bigger radiator. You want to run your engine as hot as it can handle before things start to warp or you run into problems. The more heat that you remove from the engine, the more power you remove from it. Heat is energy that you're removing from the engine and energy is power.

Figured that was only true with rotarys?

well if less heat drops engine bay temps than that means my air will be cooler meaning i will get better performance (not why i want a bigger rad.) is this not correct. coooler engine keeps fuel and air denser meaning better burning i would think

kimokalihi wrote:You don't need a bigger radiator. You want to run your engine as hot as it can handle before things start to warp or you run into problems. The more heat that you remove from the engine, the more power you remove from it. Heat is energy that you're removing from the engine and energy is power.

Did you actually read what you just posted before you submitted it?

Actually a larger radiator isnt needed for an na, rather a higher volume water pump would be suggested. Aluminum radiators not only hold more fluid, they have wider fins and dissipate heat more efficiently. Hence why they use aluminum ic piping. If it were me, i could go either way, just run a 190* thermostat and it will always remain warm. REMOVING UNNECESSARY HEAT WILL IMPROVE RELIABILITY AND EFFICIENCY. Typically, you want your oil to maintain temps no less than 180* and no more than 210* and the same for coolant. If you stay within that range, no size of radiator or oil cooler will matter. Its the fluids consistency that matters.

ok so what is a 190 thermostate, it only goes to 190 degrees like angle or temp? and maybe my oil guage is wrong which it could be but the only time i hit 180 is when im in traffic, it usually sits about 160-170. could that be bad

It's temp in degrees. It's a valve in your cooling system that opens at a given temp. As far as oil goes it really depends on the grade of oil. But that's a little on the low side for 10w 30. 180 is good 190 is ideal.

im running mobil 1 right now. what temp are the stock therm. at. and would i just goto Subaru to get one.

Typically they are 210* but who knows if someone changed that at any time. I stick around 190* so the heater always blows really hot air.

The stock tstat will keep the ECT's around 183 deg F with the fans on all the time.

The ECU cycles the fans on and off between 190 & 200 deg F.

tturnpaw wrote:Typically they are 210* but who knows if someone changed that at any time. I stick around 190* so the heater always blows really hot air.

my heater blows around 150 degrees. i have a temp gauge on my volt meter

kimokalihi wrote:You don't need a bigger radiator. You want to run your engine as hot as it can handle before things start to warp or you run into problems. The more heat that you remove from the engine, the more power you remove from it. Heat is energy that you're removing from the engine and energy is power.

Yikes man,you should retract that statement,there is nothing true about anything you said there.

The OEM thermostat is 172°, which is at the bottom of the motor. Cruising on the highway saw 10-15° higher than that as my temp sensor is mounted in the crossover. The WRC style vent in my hood made my temps much much much more consistent at right about 182-183°, along with dropping my intake inlet temps by about 35°. That is with a front mount though.