So, i've had torn up cv boots in my 93 Legacy SS for about a year now. They were not clicking or anything but they had to start sometime soon. So that was my main reason for the project. Since the car is fairly low km and everything i've replaced so far has been original oem, I figured the struts were probably in need while i'm down there. I was also sick and tired of body roll, the car felt like a boat on some hard corners. The car also needed an alighnment after bumping a curb two christmas's ago.
My first step was to research what I could use and ask lots of newbee
questions as I've never touched a Subaru, or any other type of cars suspensions.
Thanks to everyone who helped.
and Jason T at Dale's Brake and Alighnment. Thanks for the knowledge.
Excuse me if i miss anything. I'll edit as i go.
First thing i would like to note. I spent 4 hours trying to get the right axel spring pin out, and 4 minutes doing the left. i'll elaborate later.
First thing i did was to pull off the center caps and crack the axel nuts free with a 32mm (1 1/4ish) impact socket. The socket was connected to a 3 foot 300# torque wrench.
i did this with the car on the ground. i ve heard of these nuts being really tough. mine came off with a little force and no swearing.
Then we jacked the car up and took the wheels off. Remeber to use jackstands for safety and because you will be shaking the car around a bit and you don't want it falling.
This is my buddy Keith, he helped out with the project. We were both newbies to it.
Next thing we did was remove the caliper 14mm bolt and then slid the caliper off. We then hung it with a zap strap. Then we loosened off the brake brackets two 17mm bolts for removal and placed everything to the side.
Next we cut the brake line bracket off the strut carefully as not to damage the line. This is optional. You can also disconnect the brake line but then you will have to bleed your brakes We used a zip cut and a steady hand to just knick the bracket and then bent it off with pliers..
We then marked the bolt head side of the camber bolt with a paint marker. We were just getting it close as it was going in for an alighnment two days later anyways.
Next we placed a jack under the knuckle and removed the two strut to knuckle bolts, these are 19mm. After that we loosened off the three 12mm nuts on the top of the strut tower.
Last thing to do is lower the jack slowly and remove the strut. Put it aside.
Now if your doing axels.
We spent 4 hours trying to bang out the spring pin on the inside diff part of the axel. Little did we know, the axel will slide right out of the front diff with a little tug if you have the outside out of the knuckle.
The reason we had such a problem is because we used a center punch to get the spring pin out which just jammed everything up.
Here's a look at some of the tools we broke.
If we would have used a proper flat end punch that was the same size as the pin it would have went super easy.
but we didnt.
So, our next step was to remove the axel nut completely. we turned the wheel to the right for doing the left side and to the left to pull out the right side.
Like Ciper said, there is no need to remove a ball joint or anything else if the knuckle bolts are out. The knuckle will move enough to remove the axel. You may need a rubber mallet to get the axel loose.
We then yanked out the axel from the diff side and got rid of the spring pin with the axel on the bench. That way was alot easier. on the second side we did, it took 4 minutes compared to four hours because we removed it from the car and used the proper punch to get the spring pin out.
As you can see, one took 4 hours, the other 4 minutes.
We had new altrom axels put in. we put the new spring pins in the axels with the axels on the bench and then slid them back into the diff.
to do this, line the axel up in the diff and slide it in as far as you can, then hit the outside with a rubber mallet and it should pop in the rest of the diff.
After you get it in, put the outside axel in the knuckle carefully and hand tighten the nut. Have the knuckle ready to jack up so you don't put too much pressure on the new boot.
Back to the struts, this is when we marked the camber bolt for reference before removal.
and here is the stock strut.
looks original, i sanded the paint and dirt off to read the writing.
It says Subaru / part #/ kyb /gas filled/ do not heat.
anyone know if they are original?
The camera flash makes it impossible to read.
Here's is my new setup for the fronts.
02 wrx strut and tophat, 04 sti spring swapped in.
the rears i used 02 wrx strut, 02 wrx springs, and my stock tophats.
Our next step was to reinstall the new strut by sliding it into place and tightening the top, and then the bottom.
we did not line our camber bolts up perfect as we slotted all the strut holes.
we went about 2.5mm towards the engine for the top holes, and 2.5mm towards the wheel for the bottom hole. we then pulled the knuckle from the bottom to get max camber and took it in for an alighnment two days later.
i also noticed after i took the ols struts out that one was bent.
kinda made me happy as the problem was already fixed.
The rear we did the exact same as the front without touching the axels or brakes. just the brake line. and all the strut bolts.
since it was a sedan, we had to remove the back seats. all of which is done with a 12 mm socket.
install for everything was just the reverse of the removal. we zap strapped the brake lines to the struts. and tightened are axel nuts as much as we could until we torqued them to 135 when the car was on the ground.
remember if you are re using any strut bits to loosen the strut top nut while it is in the car to make it easier.
the rear needed some washers. details on that later too.
i'll include the instructions to my strut work later.
here is my alighnment sheet
my rear toe was real bad.
i had over 2.0* camber in the rear
Ride height
I'll have post swap pics and pre's up soon.
CONCLUSION.
I love it.
It may need a lower later on. it dropped about 1/2 inch in the front, and raised the car 1/2 inch in the rear.
The car looks level, not jacked up in the front like stock.
Handling is real nice. the car stays WAY flatter on the corners and it feels like it brakes and accelerates better because of the new stiffness.
My total cost for the front struts and springs all with real low km.
40$ cdn.
NEW axels. 95$ each cdn.
beer, pizza, alighnment ect 120$.
Not bad seeming new kyb's up here are 600 for the set.
the car rides stiffer and feels alot more sporty. I cant wait to get the new tires on!
Update, after 5 days of driving all is still well. almost zero wheelhop and i just cant seem to get the tires to do any squealing.