legacycentral bbs

>> This page is taking over the build page for a while as the EJ2.34t project is on hold.

Updates below

• Engine Removal Process < WorkS for Me
  
  Be sure to have a Wet\Dry Vaccume ready - you will need one for extracting fluids and catching leaks
  be sure to park on level ground
  For 5mt be sure the transmission is in _neutral_ ! !
  apply park brake

• -
  Tools -
  -
  *have Allen Key for the clutch pin cap
  have vice grips
  have metric wrenches
  have socket set 3\4" & 1\2" in metric & standard
  have socket wrench in 3\4" & 1\2 "
  *have socket wrench extentions 2"and 6" & a pivot adapter for bottom-end engine bolts and lower starter bolt
  have breaker bar for extending wrenches
  -
  have engine hoist
  -
  have 1 pump jack and 1 sissor jack
  have 1 pair of jack stands for supporting the front end off-ground , leaving room enough to roll around and use your elbows
  have protective lenses that do not fog / very important when working under the motor
  have methalhydrate for removing grease and cleaning bolts
  have many sets of industrial grade rubber gloves
  have respitory mask
  have carboard boxes
  have absorbant rags
  -
  STEP 1
  -
  Remove the Battery
  remove the Air Intake ; FOR TURBO : remove resonater and induction tubing
  Prop car using jack stands and pump jack
  OPTIONAL : remove wheels

• -STEP 2
  Drain Oil
  Drain Engine Coolant
  Drain Power Steering Fluid - optional
  de-pressurize fuel line
  
  -STEP 3
  remove the radiator
  remove the a\c core if so equipped
  
  - STEP 4
  undo the plumbing to and from the engine , be sure to have the shopVac handy !
  + A\C lines
  + radiator hoses
  + Oil lines \ hoses
  + Fuel line\ hoses
  + Vaccume lines
  
  -STEP 5
  undo the cabling attached to the motor
  
  -STEP 6
  undo the remaining wiring harness
  OPTIONAL : remove the AC compressor , remove the alternator , remove the power-steering pump , remove intake manifold-

• -
  -STEP 7 : Attach the hoist & chain-harness
  -
  STEP 8
  remove exhaust manifold
  remove starter
  FOR TURBO : remove turbo-downpipe bolts
  remove motor mount bolts
  remove 2 lower engine-to transmission bolts
  5mt remove clutch fork pin ; FOR AUTOMATIC : remove Intakle throttle body and remove torque-converter bolts at the Fly-Wheel
  remove 2 upper engine-to-transmission bolts
  
  -STEP 9
  apply minimal pressure to hoist to lift the motor off the engine mounts
  support the transmission with pump jack
  for stuck engine \ transmission use a blade and hammer at the joint
  
  STEP 10
  Breathe ; beer & Remove Engine

• EJ25D installed in a MY'91 turbo Chassi + ECU
  I almost forgot ,, Installation is the reverse of removal - SSeriously though it not so bad

• 22T5mt items swapped onto phase 1 EJ25D engine
  -
  pwer steering pump
  alternator
  MAF
  flywheel cover plate - under-side
  -
  22T5mt manifold items swapped onto EJ25D engine
  -
  22t throttle body w\c position sensor
  22t idle air control valve
  22t ignitor
  22t purge control solenoid
  -
  22T5mt harness modification includes :
  -
  extending engine coolant temperature sensor clip to opposite side } on coolant crossover
  -
  extending temperature sensor clip to opposite side } on coolant crossover
  -
  knock sensor : switching connector style to EJ25D type, to accomidate the knock sensor on 25D
  -
  22t crank sensor : switching connector to EJ22t style to accomidate 22t harness
  -
  22t cam sensor : switching cam sensor to EJ22t style to accomidate 22t harness
  -
  neutral items \ universal fit both harness
  -
  injectors 1 2 3 4
  oil pressure switch
  engine coolant temperature sensor : needs harness extention
  temperature sensor : needs harness extention
  -
  EJ25D engine items remain
  -
  knock sensor
  crank sensor
  -
  EJ25D intake manifold items remain
  -
  injectors 1 2 3 4
  vaccume \ Intake tubing
  -
  OTHER PARTS NEEDED TO SWITCH TO EJ25 > 5mt
  ***
  5mt intake hoses
  ***
  UN USED PARTS AND SENSORS ON EJ25D > auto
  ***
  Tourque convertor
  EGR valve - i created a false valve gasket and bolted the EGR Valve back on over-top the false gasket with a high temp gasket sealer + capped plumbing
  EGR valve solenoid removed + capped plumbing
  -
  ***
  UN USED PARTS AND SENSORS ON EJ22T-5mt
  ***
  Charcoal canister removed
  Turbo exhaust manifold removed
  -
  Extra Parts Involved **
  --
  98 GT engine fans
  98 GT engine coolant overflow tank

- here is a video of the 25D start-up , there is no exhaust though the car idles fine without the o2 sensor
engine start

Soo this weekend between a 3000 word paper and a site report, i scurried up enough courage to pull the motor out and drop a new engine crossmember in right before work .. .. ...


yeahh rrighttt

i prop'd the car up and whipped out the angle grinder and ripped out an inch off the crossmember.

may as well i just file it down a bit right ? - , and i do mean a bit

i m quite sure there is no loss of integrity here on the c-member


-

+

+


above is the exhaust installed ,
gasket maker and the gaskets that arrived with the exhaust make a great seal
-
i did have to remove the front swaybar for this exhaust to fit , headers are OBX for a '98-'05 impreza 2.5 RS


not a huge deal , all this is temporary until the real motor is built

it sounds BeefY !
like chunk'i soup beefY!
next is finishing up on the rest , cut and paste sorta stuff

Vclip of 0-60, then 60-100^^
3/4 throttle
Quality is a bit rough.. the exhaust is yet to be sealed, so its a bit loud still.

next is plugs& wires

how much for those headers and do you have a part number available. thanks

part number # H10798
cost 299US on ebay right now
ebay item number # 200411172559 from seller : dialod

that sounds legit!

Nice!

so you said you had to remove the sway bar, is that permanent

SILINC3R wrote:so you said you had to remove the sway bar, is that permanent

as far as i can tell yess it is permanant, i have a turbo front swaybar and the bends colide with the pipe

non-turbo may be a different story

heay again here is the latest updates on the engine "upgrade"
I m tearing out the current EJ25 over the next two weeks for a younger prettier 2.5 from this 98 forrester S .. the red one
over the winter the legacy over-heat and threw a rod.. yess another one



I also have some pictures of the finished exhaust after one winter, as you can see, the new headers fit to the existing chassi and also the cat-back portion is from a '98 legacy/outback, this is stock equipment on all the stock mounting hangars with a subaru mufler . IMO No easier upgrade than this for novices and a huge difference for off-the-line ie; no stumbling starts in place of the original equipment .

I' ll see if the front sway bar on the forester will fit the legacy now with the new headers -cause that would be sweet.

Monday August 8th Engine Day
New Exedy Clutch and Engine Swap #2




-------------
Below the reason engine #2 threw a rod

-------------
With a side order of BBQ'd disk