legacycentral bbs

I have a 95 Legacy with an EJ22 motor and am getting close to timing belt time. I've done this job on other makes but not on a Subaru yet. Any particulars or tips? What about crank and camshaft sprocket holders? Are these absolutely necessary and if so, anyone have a source for low priced ones?

I'm also a bit puzzled about the shop manual's comment "After installing timing belt, remove rocker cover and ensure that valve lash adjuster contains no air"

My understanding is that the timing belt tensioner is self contained- that is, it does not receive engine oil/pressure. If so, where is the air coming from on the lifters? Do you guys really do this?

Not sure about the comments on the lifters....you don't need to mess with that.

Here's scans from the factory manual

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt2.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt3.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt4.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt5.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt6.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt7.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _belt8.jpg

and some pictures
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... imingbelt/

Make sure to use the mark on the back of the crank timing gear, and not the arrow.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... P_4984.JPG

When you recompress the tensioner, do it very slowly, and then stick a cotter pin or similar in to keep in from extending while you install it.

Other then that....you really don't need camshaft sprocket holders.

You don't truly need any special tools to remove anything, just an innovative mind!

To remove the cam sprockets, I took a large chisel, placed it between the spokes of the sprocket and used a timing belt cover bolt behind it for leverage.
For the crank bolt, if you have an Auto, the safest way is to open the access hole on the top of the bellhousing and throw a huge screwdriver in the torque converter which will prevent the crank from spinning.

Also, replace the camshaft Oring on the driver's side. Prone to leaking. It's just an extra 3 bolts, and you already have everything off.

I'm not sure about that comment for the lash adjusters. They are oil filled on the rockers, so I'm not sure how air would become trapped in them.

Thank you for the info. Good photos for sure. The car is a stick shift though. Is there a similar access hole to use for stopping the flywheel/clutch assy from rotating when loosening crank pulley bolt?

You can place a long enough breaker bar against the frame and 'tap' the motor over w/ the starter. Or you can put the trans in gear w/ the park brake on and the wheels blocked.