legacycentral bbs

I will probably just get another good working valve, but I was thinking I should just get a new one. My valve seems to be leaking and such when cold, and seems to get stuck when hot to. I wonder if the stock one can be fixed though? Any suggestions here?

How cheap is cheap?
I bought a billet aluminum one on Ebay for a VW/Audi for like $40USD. Works quite well.

Recirculating though? Not some stupid one that goes shift , PSHHHHHHHH . lol, i wouldn;t mind SOMETIMES having that PSHHHHHHH sound like at school but all day no fkin way.

ericem wrote:Recirculating though? Not some stupid one that goes shift , PSHHHHHHHH . lol, i wouldn;t mind SOMETIMES having that PSHHHHHHH sound like at school but all day no fkin way.

Juat because it makes that sound doesn't mean it's stupid...... More like retarded, and I have one . If you do get a BOV they make adapters to make it recirculating. Any who, did you try to spray some WD40 and actuate it to loosen it up, or is the diaphragm leaking? The oil vapors are prolly caking up on it making it stick and leak, maybe? I have one for a saab, the bosch plastic one, but shipping alone to you is about $20 . The new billet ones on Ebay are starting at $49+ shipping.

Cheap and quality rarely go hand in hand in this game. If you could modify some sort of factory valve to work like a DSM valve you'd be in business.

Otherwise, the TiAL alpha Q is a very, very nice option for a recirculating valve. TiAL says it outflows the old atmospheric design, which is pretty wild.

http://www.tialsport.com/prod_bv_Aq.htm

You know what was weird, when I would suck on the vacuum end the piece in the middle never moved. Is that normal? I just put it back thinking maybe that is just how it works.

ericem wrote:You know what was weird, when I would suck on the vacuum end the piece in the middle never moved. Is that normal? I just put it back thinking maybe that is just how it works.

Umm, dude. If you have a vacuum gauge. you should try sucking on that and see how much you can pull. I'm pretty sure it won't be near 5 inches of mercury. But at least you tested one part out . That is a good thing tho. If you weren't sucking any air that should mean the diaphragm isn't leaking. To get it to work, you'll need a vacuum pump. Almost like one that lets you self bleed your brake system. Ummm, that is all I can think of right now.

Screw you guys,i love the pshhhhhh sound.I think i am going to go out and mount a megaphone to mine tonight!

ericem wrote:Recirculating though? Not some stupid one that goes shift , PSHHHHHHHH . lol, i wouldn;t mind SOMETIMES having that PSHHHHHHH sound like at school but all day no fkin way.

No, it's an OEM style BPV. Just search on ebay for "VW bypass valve" "diverter valve" or "dump valve". They are a little larger in dia. than a Subaru one, but it gets the job done.

gijonas wrote:Screw you guys,i love the pshhhhhh sound.I think i am going to go out and mount a megaphone to mine tonight!

Why don't you just hook a duck call up to it?

I have seen that before,cool for the first 5 seconds i guess.

Found a bosch one said it was from a 2004 Audi TT 1.8T with 30k miles. Are they pretty good? I know it's plastic but I figure since it is pretty recent should be fine.

Does the valve need to be in the same location as it was originally? I was thinking I will run the hose out farther and put the valve in the middle somewhere since it is a L shape and extent the little vacuum tube.

Ideally you want your vacuum source as short as possible. I noticed a difference in response time when I cut 15" out of my source hose.

The small vacuum hose you are talking about correct?

gijonas wrote:I have seen that before,cool for the first 5 seconds i guess.

Yea I did that, and it was funny for a day and got old REAL quick

ericem wrote:The small vacuum hose you are talking about correct?

Yes, the hose that provides the vacuum to it when you let off the throttle.

Here is a good question I figure before I install this thing. Which end goes to which?

It technically should not matter. However, is there an arrow on the valve?

The stock subaru valve has an arrow on it, but I think that is there due to the placement of the vacuum line so it's oriented correctly.

If it were me, I'd probably go in the side, and out the bottom.

Legacy777 wrote:
If it were me, I'd probably go in the side, and out the bottom.

I would agree with that. If it is hooked up the other way, boost might push it open and you might have a leak then. Even tho that is how some BOV work.

Oh forgot to ask. Sometimes when the engine is FULLY warmed up like driving 40mins +, when I hit the gas it sounds like a hair dryer. It is extremely loud almost sounds like the turbine is bashing the casing. I am hoping it is just this stupid valve getting stuck, or else I need a turbo Thing is though, it does not make any noise if the engine is warmed up and you have only been driving for 10 minutes or so. What I notice is when it makes the noise it will barely accelerate. If i jump on and off the gas enough seems fine or if I let the car idle for a bit.

Ok wellllll, got it was expecting the connections to be the same size. The stock one is 3/4" the one on this is 1" so I tried stretching on 3/4" heaterhose which is the largest high temp hose I could find in Canada (jk) and no luck. So I got some plumping fittings that fit tight inside and some abs/pvc glue and made sure none of the glue went outside. Now the question is will this glue hold at the temperatures it gets up to in the engine bay?

Ya that was a stupid idea won't hold worth of $h&t. Ok going to find 1" heater hose!!

I had to get a cut of 1" heater hose at the auto parts store, AND a 1" -> 1/2" reducer pvc elbow. That's all I used, and it has been holding fine for a couple months now.

Well this is what I did Got 1 ft of 1" clear tubing says rated at like 40psi at 70F. So use it as a coupling to the 1" to 3/4" barb. Then put another 1" to 3/4" barb on the non charged side and ran a short piece of clear tubing. on the non charged side. On the charged side the clear tubing it just to couple the two, and the rest is heater hose. It seems better, but I need to adjust the way I have the valve sitting with some tie wraps. It is resting again the turbo shield a bit. With the clear tubing I can see the valve open and close with throttle to! pretty cool and works great. Still something annoying is it is not perfectly smooth. It seems like the boost is more consistent though thats for sure. Just when the window is down all I hear is wap wap wap wap wap something clattering and pinging as I give it more throttle.... I don't recall this when I first got the car.... Was 100% smooth and quiet, like literally all you heard is the nice smooth exhaust but with the windows down sounds horrible! From the rear is sounds awesome according to my friends though.

I feel like replacing my plugs one more time and get BRAND NEW wires. I might have fudged my wires I pulled out of my 93 L wagon. One plug was full of water and might have damaged one of the plugs.

Just keep an eye out on that clear tubing. Heat severely derates pressure ratings.