legacycentral bbs

Finally got the engine back into the SS tonight. First thing I started to mess with was the clutch fork (aka release lever) and cylinder.

Right away, I noticed the release lever would move back and forth really easily -- where as before it was basically unmovable. I started to doubt if I installed the release bearing in the correct direction onto the shaft. Did some reading in the FSM and noticed that I need to push the release lever into the clutch cover. Went out and tried that and it seemed to work. Now the release lever is solid and doesn't want to move. Think I'm safe there.

Next is the blasted clutch cylinder and bleeding. During the removal of the engine, etc I had pushed in the pin on the end of operating cylinder. I noticed some fluid came out the bottom of the rubber that holds the pin. Now with the engine installed, I tried to bleed the dampener. Had a friend sit in the car, press the foot down on the clutch, while I loosen the bleed screw, watch fluid shoot out and then tighten it. Pump the pedal some more and repeat.

During the course of all this bleeding, the cluch pedal travels about half way to the floor very easily. THEN it gets almost rock hard, with very little travel -- sort of feels likes a brake pedal. Through all the bleeding I did, this never changed. WTF?! On my TW, I never had this dampener crap, so not sure what the deal is. Suggestions?

Removed the dampener and rebleed the system. MUCH better. Although, something is weird with the clutch pedal travel/adjustment. The first 1" of travel is relatively easy and then the remainder to the floor feels nice and normal. When the pedal returns back to the normal position, it's 'weak' some times sticks a little bit.

Looking under the dash at the pedal box while this all occurs, the issue seems to be when the short/fat spring assembly on clutch pedal engages and changes angles / stretches. Maybe it needs replacement?

You got the first part figured out. Pressing the release lever that way allowed the throwout bearing to clip into the pressure plate.

It can be very hard to bleed the clutch system. Were you bleeding both at the damper and at the slave cylinder before?

Pushing the slave cylinder's rod back inwards helps the bleeding process because it can force some of the air bubbles back up to the master cylinder.

If fluid came out around the rubber when you did that, though, I think you might want to replace or rebuild the slave cylinder. You shouldn't be able to make it leak that easily.

That short fat spring assembly fell off my car's clutch pedal assembly a while back. I haven't missed it yet. Weird. You might still have a little air in there.

Check your fluid line to be sure it is lower than the bleed nipple on the slave. Air could be trapped in it otherwise.

A new or rebuilt slave could also be the answer if the seals are messed up.

Yup, the line is all downhill from the reservoir to the slave cylinder.

I'll try driving around for a week with it. If I'm still not happy, I'll swap over the new one I bought on the TW.

vrg3 wrote:Pushing the slave cylinder's rod back inwards helps the bleeding process because it can force some of the air bubbles back up to the master cylinder.

Yea, I noticed that today too. Pushed/pulled the clutch pedal a bunch with my hand. Looked in the reservoir tank and there were lots of little bubbles.