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How much brake drag is normal?

Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 12:52 am
by suba
After doing some searching I can't quite find a definitive answer. In my search for normal gas mileage I inspected the brakes today and found they had some dragging going on. They aren't by any means locked but there is a definite difference with the caliper on and off. How much drag is too much?

Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:51 am
by mexicanzero
there will always be some drag because of how close the pads are to the rotors. the difference is very noticeable with calipers on vs off.
but when you spin the wheels they shouldnt just stop all of a sudden they should probably do about a turn (or more if its not 4wd and is in neutral) as they gradually slow down.

alot of times pads like to seize in the clips in the caliper brackets so if you're concerned pull the pads off and clean the clips AND under the clips with a file or grinder of some sort and then put lots of anti seize everywhere. it should not be hard to get the pads in place on the bracket.

when i got my 92ss every slider on the dam thing was seized tight i had to heat them up to get the calipers off. so check them too just in case and make sure with a big pair of channel locks or c-clamp pliers all pistons go in with steady pressure, they will be stiff though.

-Alex

Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:20 am
by suba
Well bummer, looks like I need some new calipers then. Anyone against the schmucks rebuilts? any other recommendations?

Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 11:02 pm
by mexicanzero
why do you need calipers?

Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 11:16 pm
by suba
Well I could rebuild the ones I have, but considering rebuilt ones are only about $50, it would be a lot faster/easier to just swap a set of those on.

Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 1:17 am
by gijonas
Chances are that all you need to do is pull the two halves apart and clean and regrease the slides.All my stuck suby calipers were just dry and getting some rust started.

Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 4:26 am
by suba
I pulled them off and took a look around, slides are dirty, but slide smoothly so I think that is in the clear. Looking at the piston and rubber seal on the caliper I'd say they have never had any work done, extremely dirty and rusty. I figured I could mess with it and probably clean it up and get it working okay, but decided since i don't really have the time to mess around with it I'll just rebuild/replace the fronts (rears are working fine) and call it good. I hate to just replace components, but even more so I hate working on brakes, and especially hate working on marginal brakes so I think the piece of mind from having fresh parts will be nice. Rotors could use turned as well while I'm doing the calipers.

Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:16 pm
by gijonas
Gotcha.

Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 1:41 am
by mexicanzero
piece of mind is always good but keep in mind the new ones will rust too. if with a very big (12"ish) set of channel lock pliers (i like c-clamps better) you can push the piston in then they're fine and dont NEED to be replaced.
but thats your call

Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:05 pm
by suba
Well, replaced both front calipers...left one was definitely seized up. Right one may have just needed some slider grease (though it looked worse). Figured I'd do both sides while I was doing it then I don't have to worry about it anytime in the near future. As for drag: old caliper, took two hands to spin the left one, one strong hand for the right caliper. New calipers: two finger spin (well, no real 'spin' since the rear wheels were on the ground, but you get the idea).