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I just spent about 4 hours trying to get my IAC valve out due to the shitty idle I've had for a while now. Its been idling around 650 in drive. I never clocked my vf-34 when I installed it originally so I could not get it out wthout removing the downpipe and turbo. Now that i have the iac out it looks fine to me WTF!

The only question I have is this:
The black cylinder looking this that rotaes back and forth on a spring looks to be moving freely and it is positions dead nuts in the middle of the opening. Is that right?

The Hanyes says to "run the engine until warm and remove the iac and see if its shut" WTF! I cant run the engine with it half apart.

Going to go check if the resistance is 9 ohms between 1&2 and then 2&3.

Any input would be good.

The piece that rotates will be centered in the middle of the opening. It should be like that.

Hey Josh, thanks for the input. I checked the resistance and it looks fine. I had a thought on the rough idle. I noticed that when I was removing my down pipe there seems to be tranny fluid coming out of the gear selector opening in the tranny case. I might be low on fluid, I havent checked that yet. Maybe the low fluid level is causing something to make the idle lower in gear? When I pop in it neutral at lights the idle seems to go up a bit.

The idle will do what you describe when in gear....it's just how it reacts.

Is it stalling on you?

You could check the resistance of the wires going to the IAC valve back to the ECU. You could also try adding an additional ground from the intake manifold ground spot to the negative lead on the battery.

no its not stalling. I had it start and stall after heavy rains last week ish. then it started and ran fine. There is another post somewhere on that.

As for the IAC I have it looks to be ok. Would you agree? I am going to find every ground in the engine bay and clean it. I think that oi the route cause for the resulting "fixes" noticed durring the grounding mods we have seen here.

As for the idle dropping a bit in drive I noticed that before. I have a live rpm monitoring on my apexi so I stare at it at red lights. When i had posted previously on a low idle it was around 750 ish in gear. Now I see it at 650 tops in gear.

in neutral the engine turning over is turning the half of the tc that is bolted to the flywheel. the portion splined to the input shaft in the tranny is also spinning since the tranny is in park/neutral so there is no gear selected, all clutches/bands are disengaged.
once in gear the forward clutch engages so the input shaft isnt allowed to spin anymore as long as your foot is on the brake. the input shaft is splined to half the tc sothat half is no longer allowed to move.
end result is you half one half of the tc spinning the other half stationary and so all the fluid in the tc is creating alot of resistance to the spinning half trying to slow it down. this added load on the engine slows it down a bit.

my car idles at 700 in neutral or park but in drive or reverse its at 650 as said above thats just how these cars work. and in my experiences almost all automatics are the same save for the more advaced modern cars which adjust the iac when the vehicle goes in gear.

your idle being rough can be a million things, tune up stuff, tiny air leaks, old worn out components/sensors carbon deposits and build up.
my recommendation do a complete tune up if its been a while, get a motorvac done to clean out the injectors and fuel system (very often a cause of rough idles) clean your maf and throttle bore check all intake gaskets and piping and vac lines, but ultimately a high mileage 17 yr old vehicle isnt going to run completely smooth.

-Alex