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Auto Trans Problem??
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:11 am
by Tommio RS
Hi thar. I got a 93 leggy turbo with an auto in it. I have a problem or two here. If i get the car up to operation temp and sit at a light the card kinda vibrates and if i steer the wheels it does it more so and more noticable. Aswell when she is warm and i plant the pedal, after doing that the car makes a odd burnt smell?? I dont have the vents on when this is done tho. The car has ZERO codes. I did the tranny code dance and the ecu code plugs.
Could this be the torque converter? clutch discs dead? The fluid looks mint! like its still nice an red with no black crap in it. I changed it last year this time. But i never changed the filter. I dont know if i have the spin out or in pan filter?
If i hold the rpms at 2000 the car really doesnt move. If i hit 2500 it will move kinda like traffic speed. It jsut seems that the car doesnt like engaging the clutches in the tranny very hard? i dunno. i think i might make a vid this weekend.
Thanks people!
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:58 am
by log1call
It sounds more like an engine problem than a transmission problem to me, but hey, I'm fifteen thousand miles away and I'm not even sure if that is your motor I'm hearing. Could be that other guy's... that one over there.
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 5:24 am
by 93forestpearl
If it doesn't want to move, your forward clutch is probably toast. Have you been under the car yet?
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:13 pm
by Tommio RS
The car will move. accutally 50% of the time is shots or just hardly even moves. This is all being done with out touchin the gas tho. if i touch the gas it will move but more sluggish. Im probably going to make a video about it.
Yes i have been under there. There no leaks anywhere to be seen.
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:49 pm
by log1call
The first bit, the shuddering etc sounds like the motor.
The drive problems could be motor or trans but you can't really test the tran without the motor being right.
To test a torque converter is a fairly simple test, but the motor has to be in tune.
It could also be clutches.
Have you checked the trans fluid is at the correct level, clean and not burnt?
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:43 pm
by Tommio RS
Color looks good. Smells like crap tho, not burnt at all. I changed the fluid a year ago. The engine is PERFECT! I had every sensor replace. I have no lights on at all. The motor has fantastic performance. The trans doesnt seem to really suck at that. Its just like a grandma off the light if i dont hit any sort of boost.
Aswell when its hot and im sitting in at light the car some times makes a "clunk clunk" sound. Thats if the car is in D it goes any INSTANTLY when its put into P or N.
Every problem that i have listed in other posts are all in D. Every problem goes away like sounds and stuff when shifted into N.
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 11:13 pm
by ericem
Check your motor mounts out of curiousity!
Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 5:19 am
by log1call
Well the test for a torque converter is to put the brakes on hard so the car can't move then put it in gear and put the foot to the floor and record the revs. It makes the oil real hot real quick so you only want to do it for couple of seconds, just long enough for the revs to top out. If you do it in all the different gears you can test most of the clutch packs.
If you really want to test the trans you need a pressure gauge with a long hose that goes to about five hundred pounds and a fitting to screw into the trans. You have to test pressures at two different places, and in different gears and stuff, but it's pretty basic. Fit the gauge, go for a drive doing the tests and recording the results on paper. Make sure you do all the tests. Then you analyze the results.
If the oil smells bad though, it's not a god sign. I am supposing that you are familiar with the smell of new oil and that you don't find that offensive though.
Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:50 pm
by Tommio RS
Ok. Im thinkin about doing the torque converter test. Basiclly hold the foot brake really really hard. Then once the brake is hammered to the floor. Hit the gas to the floor and see what the RPM's are. Yes ill makes sure there is nothing infront of me when this is being done.
What RPM should i see?
If it starts to smell or smells after that im guessing not a good sign.
Thanks log1call!
Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:46 pm
by log1call
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:35 am
by Tommio RS
Well... After some testing and stuff i came to the conclusion that i dont have any sort of problems of real danger. Tho i still believe that the TC is slowly going aswell the tranny itself will need a rebuild if i want to give the car more power.
Still It works. If i drive the car a wee bit harder the car drives just as fast as traffic. I just need to keep hitting the pedal little bit by little bit.
Thanks everyone for you help!
Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 6:19 pm
by wtdash
Minor hi-jack....
The stall test 'normal' values for the Phase I 4EAT are:
Non-turbo: 2550-2950 RPM
Turbo: 2850-3250 RPM
For reference I found the WRX 4eat Phase II is 3200 RPM
Thanks to log1call and Legacy777 for the info. Spent 1 hour searching on the Web and of course should've just checked here 1st.
