Interesting Counter-Intuitive Tire Information
Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 1:49 pm
So in doing research on building my car, I came across some interesting facts about tires: INCREASED WIDTH DOES NOT INCREASE TRACTION. Wait, WTF?!
Now read on before flipping out as your world view crumbles (as mine did).
Somewhat-relevant background: I'm in the engineering phase of building a rwd tadpole 3-wheeler I designed and was trying to figure out what width of tire I would need so that I didn't turn the thing to smoke every time I tapped the gas. So, having the general layout of the vehicle settled, I figure I have enough info to rough up some numbers on tractive force at the rear. With a terrible worst-case scenario and figuring on a .7 tire coefficient of friction, I come up with 403.8 lbs. of force. Fairly acceptable, but I'd like better for aggressive launches and acceleration in the wet or on marginal surfaces.
If you work the equation to find the tractive force, the value that causes the greatest change by far is coefficient of friction of the tires. So, interwebs, what width tire should I go to for an increase in C of F while maintaining a tread I can use on the street and hoping I don't have to go to something near 300 mm or more (for multiple boring design reasons as well as cost)?
Answer: doesn't really matter! The calculations don't even factor it in as the only things that matter (essentially, and I use the formulas for a locker rear differential—open diffs take into account a bunch of other BS—because I only have one tire anyway) are vertical load & C of F of the tire and surface. The only improvement you can get is purely from the tire compound, tread, pressure, and sidewall strength. The advantage to the width increase is that the sidewalls can better support the tire under repeated stress, it's insurance to keep a greater percentage of tread on the road on uneven surfaces, and they have the capacity to dissipate more heat than an otherwise identical skinnier tire, but do not actually grip any better on an even surface. However, the reality of it is that the higher C of F tires tend to be wider.
So what does this mean to you? Probably not as much as most cars since Subarus generally have 4 wheels of traction for acceleration and the wheel arches don't easily accommodate wide tires, nor is the suspension well designed for maintaining a consistent contact patch. But going to a higher C of F tire before going wider will get you much better results than immediately trying to jam something huge under the car, so exhausting the skinny possibilities first is the best plan. So how do you get a higher C of G tire? That's the trick—the number's seldom published and I don't know if there's even a standard anyone uses to determine it, so comparing between brands might be pointless.
Still, I thought it was an interesting bit of knowledge.
Now read on before flipping out as your world view crumbles (as mine did).
Somewhat-relevant background: I'm in the engineering phase of building a rwd tadpole 3-wheeler I designed and was trying to figure out what width of tire I would need so that I didn't turn the thing to smoke every time I tapped the gas. So, having the general layout of the vehicle settled, I figure I have enough info to rough up some numbers on tractive force at the rear. With a terrible worst-case scenario and figuring on a .7 tire coefficient of friction, I come up with 403.8 lbs. of force. Fairly acceptable, but I'd like better for aggressive launches and acceleration in the wet or on marginal surfaces.
If you work the equation to find the tractive force, the value that causes the greatest change by far is coefficient of friction of the tires. So, interwebs, what width tire should I go to for an increase in C of F while maintaining a tread I can use on the street and hoping I don't have to go to something near 300 mm or more (for multiple boring design reasons as well as cost)?
Answer: doesn't really matter! The calculations don't even factor it in as the only things that matter (essentially, and I use the formulas for a locker rear differential—open diffs take into account a bunch of other BS—because I only have one tire anyway) are vertical load & C of F of the tire and surface. The only improvement you can get is purely from the tire compound, tread, pressure, and sidewall strength. The advantage to the width increase is that the sidewalls can better support the tire under repeated stress, it's insurance to keep a greater percentage of tread on the road on uneven surfaces, and they have the capacity to dissipate more heat than an otherwise identical skinnier tire, but do not actually grip any better on an even surface. However, the reality of it is that the higher C of F tires tend to be wider.
So what does this mean to you? Probably not as much as most cars since Subarus generally have 4 wheels of traction for acceleration and the wheel arches don't easily accommodate wide tires, nor is the suspension well designed for maintaining a consistent contact patch. But going to a higher C of F tire before going wider will get you much better results than immediately trying to jam something huge under the car, so exhausting the skinny possibilities first is the best plan. So how do you get a higher C of G tire? That's the trick—the number's seldom published and I don't know if there's even a standard anyone uses to determine it, so comparing between brands might be pointless.
Still, I thought it was an interesting bit of knowledge.