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Cold engine...

Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:32 am
by SubieBro
My car wont warm up very well. unless it sits then the needle will stop halfway, but when i start driving it stops at like a quarter at the most. i gave it a radiator flush and since then its been cold, although i didn't get to drive it much before that anyway. I heard your engine is supposed to run at a certain temp and not too cold or its not good, is that true?

Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:35 am
by mike-tracy
Sounds like a thermostat that's stuck open. Yes, temperature needle should be around halfway when the car is at operating temperature, below that it gets worse fuel economy.

Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 5:43 am
by tahiti350
both of ours run between 1/3 and 1/2.... Mine won't even shift up to 4th until it's at least 1/3 of the way up the scale...

Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:05 am
by 93forestpearl
You could try the thermostat. Cheap experiment.



I suggest getting a real coolant temp gauge. Then you know where your motor is sitting.

Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 7:55 pm
by Legacy777
Make sure to use a subaru thermostat. If you don't you will have issues.

Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 7:44 am
by SubieBro
oh sweet, thanks a bunch! ill try that :D

Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 7:18 am
by 93forestpearl
Sounds like a bot of some sort.






Anyways, OEM thermostat next to a NAPA thermostat.

Image

Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 10:50 am
by lovejenete
I have a 2000 Audi A6 2.7T and recently the engine is not working right. after coming to a stop I will step on the gas and the gears wont get caught to turn the wheels. Instead the engine revs and the car rolls until the the wheels work. I am thinking this can be a transmission problem but I really dont know. Could it also be the timing belt?? please let me know if any of you encountered a problem like this before and if you solved it.

Posted: Wed Dec 23, 2009 6:30 pm
by snowcat
Yup, the oem thermostat is the way to go. I just had to replace my autozone or whatever it was w/an oem, part # 21200aa072, which supercedes the aa070 and aa071.

The difference in appearance b/w the two(oem vs. non) is exactly as pictured above (thanks forestpearl). If u look at the oem on the left, to the left of the top, at the base of the inverted v there's what looks like a little silver button sitting on top.

I don't know what it is, but it's some kind of floating pin which should be facing toward the top of the engine during install, else it won't fit (at least it wouldn't on my 94 ej22t). There must be a reason for having it then, since there's a specific way it mounts, and my non-oem didn't even have it!

Plus I only got about 2 mos. out of my non-oem and that was all. My engine would hit 198 and not change temp unless it went up to 203 at a stoplight. Fans running all the time pretty much. Now it's running pretty as a picture w/the oem thermo, as low as 187/185 and lower @ times, even w/load. Awesome difference!

Subie engines I'm pretty sure, at least gen 1, should warm-up to about 178 at optimum idle, fluxing w/engine load etc. And yes, a numerical temp gauge makes all the difference. I wouldn't even have known this was happening by dash gauge alone, my needle was @ middle (normal).

Lesson for me: Pay more for the oem thermo now, and save urself headaches and buying the oem 2 mos. later.

Btw, forestpearl, what's a bot?

Posted: Wed Dec 23, 2009 6:55 pm
by 93forestpearl
snowcat wrote:Btw, forestpearl, what's a bot?
Josh deleted the post. It was some sort of automated posting trying to advertise or sell something. A "bot" is some sort of automatic software that like to whore things out on forums. I think google is notorious for it.



I'm no computer and internet expert, however. I'm sure many people could chime in and set the record straight.

Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 4:33 pm
by Legacy777
Dan's got it straight :)