legacycentral bbs

It has the 4EAT automatic transmission, and is SUPER strong in First, shifts into Second perfectly, then when it gets to third, it goes into third gear, but then slips into a neutral position, and will not go anywhere from there. i can then shift down and drop it into first or second and regain 1st and 2nd to drive away. Of course 4th will not follow, but i can feel it go into 3rd, but it doesn't hold. I checked the fluid on the car and it looked a bit low, and smelled a little burnt. It also looked more brownish then the red im used to seeing

Welcome. Try changing the transmission fluid.

I would probably suggest getting yours rebuilt/worked on. Most of the transmissions you are going to find may not be in any better shape, and you certain don't want to be replacing the transmission twice.

That sounds like burnt clutch pack.

I'd overhaul the old one. As Josh says, you don't know if the second-hand one is any good anyway.

If you can find someone to do the work for you at a reasonable cost they are quite cheap to do up. All the parts cost less than you can get get a second hand transmission for here in New Zealand.

i like the feed back.. sounds good.. do i have an option when it comes to the internals? as far as performance? Or just oem? and where can i find a rebuild kit? i mean i do everything else on the car i just did the axles ball joins radiator battery alternator. its this tranny i don't wanna do haha i rather have someone else. also would a shop use my kit? or would they have to use theirs because of warranty issues? again i appreciate the feed back

I got a relativly fresh rebuilt trans at the local pick-a-part for $58.... was able to pull the pan and take a look before removing as they drain all fluids before putting them in the yard.. Pan was clean, didn't even have the normal clutch dust residue, fluid that was still in the pan was bright red, so I took a chance. Trans worked great, No weird noises, no leaks. Best $58 I've ever spent on a car.

This one is now in my daughters '92 wagon in Texas..

really??? that's sweet i need a rebuild so bad i hear stories about rebuilds being so much better but just replacement it is cheaper blah blah idk what to do

I got my Legacy at 88k miles and it had no reverse, so i pulled it out and had it rebuit. It cost just under $1,000 after tax and all. I've sent alot of work to the place that did mine, so I thought they gave me a little break. Turned out the no reverse was a sticky valve in the valve body, but since they had it I figured go ahead and rebuild. I had no torque bind before it was rebuilt but afterwards it had massive torque bind. I called them up and they tried to tell me it was the rear diff and that it was a LSD and the cluthes were sticking. I politely told them that I was 100% sure it was not a LSD diff, and it seemed like duty solenoid c was unpluged. After I talked and talked for 2 weeks they finally said bring it back, this time I did not pull the tranny, I brought the whole car. I told them that all I wanted was to be a happy customer. They pulled the whole tranny and replaced duty solenoid C and put another rebuild kit in it, they called me and told me it still did it so I went and picked it up thinking I was f'd. I got in and did some doughnuts and no torque bind, I believe they told me it was still doing it so they wouldn't admit i was right. BTW they never charged me for anything but the original bill

I just turned 159k miles and it still shifts great, I waited till 130k to put on a tranny cooler and external filter. My only regret was waiting so long to do the cooler and filter, I did this after it started slipping do to heat, been awesome ever since. I drain my fluid every 15k miles and change filter every 30k, I know it's alil overkill but it works well for me and my fluid is blood red everytime i drain. I just use NAPA brand ATF DEXRONIII and a bottle of LUBEGUARD RED bottle. I've been running 14-16psi on a TD-05 since the cooler/filter install, the only problem is the 1-2 shift bounces off the rev limiter the rest of the shifts are crisp and at about 6500rpm WOT. I'm guessing the extra torque is causing it to hit the rev limiter on the 1-2 shift. My temp stays between 160-200 degrees F, never goes over 200 even on the hottest days.

From what I remember there is a clutch pack in the tailshaft that has something to do with the AWD, most rebuilders don't touch this or any of the solenoids(they're usaully fine). Most only replace the steels/clutches and seals in the main body of the tranny. If you want everything replaced plan on spending $3k.

If you plan on rebuilding I would at least have them replace duty solenoid C if not any other solenoids. ipttrans.com sells performance rebuild kits for the 4eat which is for a basic rebuild like what I just described for around $600. I'm pretty sure this kit will work on all 4EAT not just the reworked ones, but I'm not 100%. They also sell a shift kit which requires you to ship them the valve body for reworking. They have alot of stuff for the 4EAT better solenoids, torque converter, etc. Definately check them out before you rebuild, I wish I had. ipttrans.com

About the AWD clutch pack. I remember reading a post on here from a trans mechanic that rebuilds 4EATs, he recommends using Lube Guard RED and doing slow figure 8s (lock to lock)to work the cluthes. I believe this is only a problem if your experiencing AWD problems or something similar to torque bind, regardless I will always use Lube Guard Red and do the occasional figure 8 to keep the cluthes from sticking. For all I know the second time they rebuilt my tranny this clutch pack may have been replaced, not sure.

One more thing. If you let someone rebuild it and they get the kit MAKE SURE they get it for a TURBO 4EAT. The Turbo 4EAT has extra clucthes vs the NA 4EAT.

Take everything i say with a grain of salt as it has been over 4 years ago since I read most of the info I'm posting.

Good luck, Brian