legacycentral bbs

hello everyone...i am in the market to purchase a 22t. i just want to know what a good price would be to pay for a 92 22t with 105k and a spun rod bearing. tell me what you would pay for that please...and i dont wanna low ball the guy so be honest. what would you selll that for?

thanks for the help everyone

I picked up a complete EJ22T for $350 including the turbo that had 200K miles on it and could have used some refreshing and new vacuum lines.

But I've also seen the block alone sell for that much. In fact I think I sold the block from that motor for $300 after tearing it apart.

$400 for bare case halves is a reasonable price to pay. Patience pays dividends, however. Depends on how big of a hurry you are in.

I sold a BARE CASE for $1100 to a nutcase once.....

Wish there were more nutcases....

Yea I was gonna say you could probably get about 1200 for the whole motor pretty easily, but thats if you are in no major rush to sell it, and you find someone desperate. I would probably offer 300 just to see what he says, it doesn't hurt I guess, but don't be extremely suprised if he wants close to double that

Yeah, if you have time definately try to find out for $350-$500. It's totally doable. If you're in a hurry then I guess you gotta spend the cheddar.

97imprezaobs: Unfortunately you might end up overpaying because of internet forum junky hype. There is a lot of inexperienced Impreza owners who aren't knowledgable enough on their own who have driven the price up on the engine.

What is your target power level? If the person trys to ask too much money you should give myself and the fellow forum members to convince you to use an NA block.


I want to rant to everyone for a moment.
If I had a license to kill, the second group of people I would kill are the "ZOMG closed DEcK EJ22T FOR MOR POWER BECUASE ITS COMPLETELY INVINCIBLE!!" pricks. It makes my blood boil just as much as the "Underaged and Engaged" show.

Most car enthusiasts (not only Subaru owners) don't actually do real work on their car besides changing oil or installing turbo timers. All they can do is repeat what others have said. It's kind of a crap shoot whether a piece of information reaches something like the snowball effect, where one person says and three people repeat that to 20 people who repeat it to more.

Yes the EJ22 turbo block is closed deck. Yes it has oil squirters. Otherwise its the same as the NA block. The cylinder walls are no better.

Some of you have probably pushed cars to the limit or been around those who have. You are probably aware of the common failures. In EJ Subaru engines an overwelming majority of severe damage comes from a piston failing in some way. Block failures are RARE and those I have seen or read about weren't even at the top of the cylinder where the closed deck would have helped! There have been an incredible number of open deck EJ20 (and semi closed EJ25) blocks pushed to incredible levels.

I want to address the oil squirters. Ok yes they are cool. They send more lubrication to the piston and take away heat, but is this needed? If you've been around tuned Subarus enough you know lubrication issues result in ROD KNOCK before any kind of piston/ring/cylinder problem. The heat dispersion is cool to talk about but when has this ever been an issue? NONE of the higher power builds even consider using factory pistons for even one moment, and if necessary coatings can be applied to help with temperatures. With a proper tuning/fueling I consider these coatings as overkill but it doesn't hurt right?

There are those who would say 'You gotta protect those headgaskets with closed deck YO' and it makes me want to cry. Other than the paper gasket on the EJ25D Subarus rarely suffer from serious headgasket issues (assuming the car isn't overheated). The availability of multi layer steel gaskets from Cometic and even Subaru themselves along with ARP head studs have made headgasket failures non existent even on cars with over 500hp.

The EJ22 and EJ20 open deck both have thick cylinder walls, much thicker than the MY04+ STI EJ257. How many cylinder failures have you seen? There is an old thread on RS25 about an EJ25D block (thats thin wall, open deck, NA) running over 30 psi and reaching over 600HP before a boost spike to around 50 PSI cracked a cylinder wall LOL.

I could have worded this better, covered more points, cited sources and provided more info but meh I'm lazy and Conan is extra funny tonight. Hopefully this is just the start of a longer discussion [/u]

^^^^ok what the heck....you didnt answer any of my questions...if youre gonna hate dont say anything...thanks to everyone who subbmitted helpfull replys.

He was trying to save you some money.

I got my ej22t engine with wiring and a few other goodies for around $650 if I remember correctly.

i have to agree with ciper.

you also have to remember quantety with demand. they dont make these blocks anymore so resources are going to be limited and people are going to be asking top doller if the market for finding one of these rare blocks is scarce. or they just want to be greedy...

but a good price i would say for a bare block would be around $300-$400 but thats my own opinion.

if there where more of these turbo cars in junk yards, the price for the motor or bare block would be far less. witch brings us back to square one. high power goal's can be made with n/a blocks of any bore.

what is crusuel in makeing any motor last is quallity of the build and tuning. just dont do a half ass job in the most important area's that keep the longeviety of the motor up and you'll be good!

my 2 cents.

quote: You gotta protect those headgaskets with closed deck YO'

i shot apple juice out my nose, that was so damn funny. i just picture the kid wearing some dumba$$ hat sideways bumpin' his gums away.

i agree with cipher. there's a lot of hype. if you have an SS to start with, fine. otherwise, it's cheaper going with the N/A block for the vast majority of builds that most members would do. really most of us aren't pushing even revtronix stage 2. shoots, i'm not even hitting factory boost because my SS is limping around in safe mode. take the money you saved not buying the closed deck block, go through the N/A block and install high quality bearings, use a forged piston, upgrade the headbolts and head gaskets and it'll be more than enough for 90% of us for the time we'll actually keep our leggy.

live as flava flav did...

don't believe the hype.

Ciper brings up some great points. Anything at or short of 500whp is easily attainable with even a 257 block. I know someone local that has cracked two 257 blocks at the top of the cylinder, and they were due to detonation the first time and a serious overboost issue the second time.

If you are going to pursue power over those levels, you are looking at a sleeved motor regardless. The price of fun just went up.




Anyways, the deals on 22T motors aren't found at junkyards. Well, maybe sometimes, as I picked one up a few years ago for $150. Where to find cheap motors (whole cars, actually) is sitting in people's driveways. Grayguy just found a Legacy SS for $200 on Craigslist 2 miles from his house.


It all really depends on how big of a hurry you are in. If you are buying one to send to Ron at RAW for an uber motor, then by all means get one. Otherwise a 257 with drop-in pistons will handle anything a GT35R will dish out, with good tuning. Its all in the tuning.

ok well thanks for the help everyone...my goals for this engine is to just build something different and somewhat unique...so wish me luck

Like 93forestpearl said, I just happened upon a whole car, running (albeit with a VERY blown head gasket) for $200. If you don't need one now, then just wait until one pops up.

I also just picked up the rotating assembly/ heads from a 22t, which I planning on putting in an NA2.2 block as an experiment on how much punishment the NA block can handle.

I'd go for an EJ22 for the higher compression and turbo that. Not assloads of power, but a nice power band and decent mileage, too (theoretically).

I'm building my own car from scratch and my second choice (after the too expensive F20C) is an EJ22. If I can fit it width-wise. And I have a spare EJ22T, but I'd rather sell it and pick up an N/A to save a couple hundred bucks. That should do until DI boxers become available.

97imprezaobs You completely misunderstood... I was trying to help you not get cheated.

Here is a thread all of you should read.
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f7/t39629-boosted-ej25d.html
On page 14 post 141 he posts "Motor made 623awhp @ 33psi" which is at least 800 crank horsepower on an open deck normally aspirated block and this was over three years ago! The EJ22 has even thicker cylinder walls XD
Much has been learned in the details of tuning Subarus with all of the advancements made in reverse engineering the Subaru ECU's since then so I'm sure even more was possible.

I used to get everyone I could find in the 3-500 range. I would charge customers $800 for the core block, encouraging everyone to bring me their own to build up.

As a few have pointed out, $400 for just block halves, OK.

Full motor with heads, intake, injectors, manifolds turbo etc. $400 OK.

My point being that don't get sold on all the extras adding money to the deal, you throw all that out if you build something cool generally.