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Codes 22, 23 ,32

Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:10 am
by NuclearBacon
Crap. So i had a coolant leak, and it sprayed a bit of coolant around the knock sensor, and the plugs in the general vecinity... I fixed the coolant leak and now i cant get rid of codes 22, 23, 32, knock sensor, air flow sensor (is this the mass airflow sensor?) and o2 sensor. nothing was unplugged or pulled on/roughed aound....

i searched and i wanted to see if someone had these three codes... and it was something random, but i found nothing... grr..

so outside i am, with electrical cleaner,.... cleaning up the plugs... who knows if that alone will work. sweeeeet

Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:21 am
by SiCkSTi04
have you tried clearing the codes? i remember getting water on my sensors from heavy rain puddles and would get tons of codes. after clearing them they wouldn't come back.

Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 2:06 am
by Mattheww044
yea definately clear your codes as he said and get back to us. And yes Air flow sensor is referring to the MAF

Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:04 am
by NuclearBacon
I have the FSM and i went through read memory mode (black plugs) and D-check mode (green plugs) and then went and plugged both in and went for the drive to clear the memory as the book states (and as the website states SiCkSTi04). It started kicking out three codes WHILE THE TWO PLUGS WERE PLUGGED IN... grr

It kicked out 12 (starter switch is disconnected because ignition failed a few years back, i turn the key to 'on' then hit a starter button i installed. been trouble free since installation), 51 (i have a 5mt not the auto that came with the TW), and 22 knock sensor.

When i "cleared" the codes, i went for a drive with NO CONNECTORS CONNECTED. i recieved the check engine light again.

Went back and plugged in black connectors, recieved codes 22, 23, 32. WTF???? soo... the computer was not cleared?

So then i cracked open the FSM and went to see how i could check the knock sensor. it said i could put my ohm meter on the connector at the knock sensor, then go to a body ground, and i t should read about 540k-ohms....which is a lot of resistance, but i got no connectivity at all. so i had another knock sensor on my bench (unknown condition out of junkyard car). got an alligator clip and MADE SURE it was connected to the spade inside the plastic connector at the knock sensor, then tried touching the other ohm meter test terminal all over the bottom of the knock sensor. Nothing. I'm not sure that it should give anything, but it looks like, the knock sensor is just metal touching a metal spot on the block, and the block is grounded ... so... i should be able to get a reading when i do my test, right?

I get nothing (no connectivity) on both knock sensors i own.

The computer thing is wacky, and its been so rainy, that i feel like the car hasnt properly dried out... but there is no standing water, and it doesnt look wet.

tomorrow im off to scavange the junk yard for more knock sensors.... does my test sound correct?? should this work to test the sensor that way??

til tomorrow i guess :)

P.s.. found this on ebay... Image Is this the newer knock sensor connector i've heard about?? (the non white connector for 98 imprezas or something)
n2x4 wrote: I make it a habit to replace any knock sensors I see that are using the old connector. Can make a huge difference.

Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:41 pm
by Legacy777
That is a different knock sensor than what our cars use.

Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 10:18 pm
by NuclearBacon
Anything about the test i mentioned?????? im about to head to the junkyard... anyone?? what about the codes??? and the clearing madness??? so many questions ! watch me go get some junkyard knock sensor and it take away all my CEL's.... and now that ive said that... its not going to be that easy ... :)

Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 11:53 pm
by Binford
NuclearBacon wrote:Anything about the test i mentioned?????? im about to head to the junkyard... anyone?? what about the codes??? and the clearing madness??? so many questions ! watch me go get some junkyard knock sensor and it take away all my CEL's.... and now that ive said that... its not going to be that easy ... :)

I just metered an old knock sensor that I've got laying around with a cracked housing just as you described, alligator clip on the terminal and touched the mounting surface on the bottom. Mine measured .557 M-ohms. :shock: So I would say you should at least have continuity of some sort there, makes sense to me.

Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:22 am
by NuclearBacon
PERFECT!!!! thank you!!!! ok, both of mine DEFINITLY didnt have any connection... granted thats a ton of resistance... i should be getting something... not like its out of the scope of my meter or anything.... ok! after a 3.5 hour stint of looking for my FREAKIN keys (in my jacket in the closet from the rainstorm last night) i'm off to the junkyard!

Thank you binford!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :P

Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 3:00 am
by NuclearBacon
Wow this is a wacky end to an already wacky story. Before i start, i'd like to make a few things clear. I have two knock sensors in my possession. the one in the car that was throwing a code at the beginning of my post we'll call KS #1 and the one on my bench that CURRENTLY resides in the car is KS#2 . Check.

It was raining last night off and on. Check

So I'm outside with the ass end of the wagon hanging out of the garage so i can start it ect without dying. When i start working at 4pm... no rain... it is now about 6:30 or so. I go to jump into the drivers seat for one more look and i feel how cold the seat is!!! wow thats cold! wait no... thats WET. F&#K!!!!! I had the window down, and the rain had ran its way down my gutters and into the drivers side window...which was down... inside the garage completly, but the gutters got me. and i figure it out with my @$$. so i'm all peaved and wet and so forth, so i go into the house and grab my space heater so i can dry out the seat. I set it all up, get it heating, and crack the windows a bit for the moisture to escape. I let it run for about 2 hours or so, the seat is dry.

Today i get up... *its my day off today :) * around oh 10 hehehehe being a lazy bastard, but the house is FREEZING! the heaters pilot light had blown out. hmm... so i mess with that, and FINALLY get it working... (the valve had been hit by someones foot.) that took an hour and a half to figure out. THEN! i'm all ready to go to the junkyard right?? wallet, check. cell phone, check. keys.... Keys... KEYS?!!? i look everywhere. 3.75 HOURS pass and my house is TORN apart. no keys.... until i remember it was raining... and i was mr cleanliness last night and actually hung up my jacket... with my keys in the pocket. *slap forehead*

so FINALLY i can go to the junkyard to get my knock sensor.... I get into the car... no check engine light. nothing. I stop the car to make sure i didnt leave the green or black connectors plugged in ... nope... no CEL.... so i go for a little drive. 20 miles of intown 5pm traffic, nothing. 20 miles of WOT freeway onramp pulls and 90mph drags down highway 99... nothing. no CEL

My quandry... did the space heater running inside the car, dry something out??? Wacky!!!! did that knock sensor (KS#2) actually put out 540 Mohms and i just dont know how to use a multimeter??? (im 99.999999% sure i know) The mysteries continue... I hate that though... i didnt fix anything. ...well i guess its WOT till the next thing breaks :)

Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 3:12 am
by Lunatech
That's pretty much a typical type of day for me :roll:

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 3:22 am
by RJ93SS
my subie always makes a noise and the next time i get in it's fine, you gotta love em. :lol:

ohms ohms ohms

Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:36 pm
by def09
I set my craftsman multimeter to 2000K to get a reading 551. All other settings were nowhere in range.